Ebike brakes

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s4turn

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Aug 24, 2017
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Just received part of my kit from bmsbattery
Got the q128c motor kit

I'm a little stuck on the brakes.
The kit contains cable brake cutoffs where I need hydraulic cutoff brakes

The wiring harness I have appears to have the 2 pin red connectors for the brake switches
All of the brakes I've been looking at have the 3 pin bafang yellow connectors

My current brakes are avid db1 (sram) hydraulic brakes. I thought this would be a good chance to upgrade this.

Is there any sensors with the 2 pin connectors people would recommend?
If not would this adapter work ? https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/adapter-and-y-adapter-en/adapter-higo-s3-b2-a

I quite like these here but would need some kind of adapter
https://lunacycle.com/shimano-deore-m615-hydraulic-brake-set-with-bafang-ebrake-cut-off/

My other option is the Tektro dorado, but then I'd still need the 3 to 2 pin adapters
 
If you have a KT controller, brake switches aren't needed because the controller has a very fast response time to the pedal sensor.
 
I don't think it is a kt controller?
This was what I purchased but with a 14.5ah battery 48v (same price)
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/774-48v116ah-case-08-bottle-panasonic-battery-pack-battery.html

Haven't received this yet but have the wiring harness
 
Any of the Tripwire products sold be ebikes.ca will work with any controller and will allow you to use your existing hydraulics if you fancy them.

Ebrakes are certainly required if you are running PAS but if not, I wouldn't sweat the lack of ebrakes - motorcycles don't have such things...

It can help if you position the brake lever on the throttle side a bit low such that you will have to roll the throttle off to grab a good handful of brake - then the business of removing throttle and applying brakes becomes a single natural motion.
 
One trick I've learned over the years is that it's often possible to cut open the supplied levers, remove brake switching guts and somehow rework them to whatever levers we need to use.

Hot glue to test positioning of the components and then seal the deal with some Epoxy.
 
Others have posted how they've used reed switches and a small magnet to add brake cut-off to conventional levers of various types. Search the forums if that seems like a direction you might like to take.
 
It won't be very fine if you are doing a slow speed maneuver where you need to add some power from the pedals, and forgot to turn off the PAS. This is where having a brake cutoff is good, because you just squeeze the lever enough to kill power.

It's not that hard to do what ykick does, which is to take out the magnet and sensor from a mechanical lever and using epoxy to glue it somewhere else.
 
Is there anyway to wire the 3 pin to a 2 pin connector?

id rather buy a brake lever such as the tektro or deore m615 luna is selling, however both of those use the 3 pin bafang connectors
 
thought id ask seeming I had a brake thread already

Is there any after market brakes/models which are easier to mod? any preferable models?

I have inquired about the magura mt5e's but they are out of stock at chain reaction cycles
 
Magura MT5E is an excellent hydraulic disc brake for ebikes.

The "E" is important, the MT5 does not have the switches.
 
Yes they were first choice, but the online retailer can’t even tell me when they are due for stock :(
 
s4turn said:
Yes they were first choice, but the online retailer can’t even tell me when they are due for stock :(
Click to expand...

Okay, they are easily available over here.

There are two Versions, one the opens a contact while braking and the other Closes the contact while braking. The contact is inside the parted brake levers. The contact "happens" before the braking force which is good for regenerative braking.

As a simple or interim solution you can buy reed contacts and a small magnet and glue both to your brakes. This is how usual brakes are modified for a BionX upgrade for example.
 
Is this of any help to you? You said you need the two-wire type right?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Ebike-SHIMANO-M355-Modified-Hydraulic-Disc-Brakes-Can-Cut-Off-Power/331976394152?hash=item4d4b55c5a8:g:-SEAAOSwVJhZOh9E

If this is of any help, notice that they have it setup so the right lever is connected to the front housing and the left to the rear housing...euro style. You can switch the levers but best to have a bleed kit on hand even though if you're careful it's possible to switch without having to bleed.

edit: I guess the m355s wouldn't really be a huge upgrade over your DB1s on paper...but I will say that every Shimano hydraulic brake I've used has been darn good, even the cheaper ones are impressive and superior over Sram/Avid/Tektro at the same price bracket. If you go with the m615s or higher you will be going into 1-finger braking territory, that's even how the lever is designed. The m355 has a longer lever which has a completely different feel and some people prefer that...myself I don't really care, one finger is nice as long as the brake has enough power to be modulated that way.
 
i wouldnt mind getting the deore or better brakes

the magura's at chain reaction cycles were not badly priced, i think cheaper than the amazon ones, althogh no stock
those end up being $220 each delivered and converted to my local currency :(
I also need new (bigger) discs and possibly is/post adapters

Ive seen a few threads on people modding brakes with the sensors, was curious more or less if there were recommended or easier brakes to mod

I want it to look good and function without any issues. Have seen a few examples of DIY and its not what I want to follow :(
 
https://www.merlincycles.com/magura-mt5e-disc-brake-2017-100416.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-US&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=MTB+Disc+Brakes&ucpo=39436&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1dDPBRC_ARIsAJZrQfru5BOVc3k6ArUlZ6dLhEfuJHkR56Hjfj1zjX8A0PIQXIS-QSfMBFUaAoKCEALw_wcB

Maybe this is helpful? Possibly still expensive for you.
 
Maguras are the most finicky and difficult to set up brand I've messed with. The space between the open pads is tiny, requiring perfectly straight rotors, and perfect caliper positioning to keep from rubbing. Shimanos typically retract the pads really far, making the alignment of everything less critical. The Maguras are much more of a pain to bleed too...

But re. cutoff brakes or a bar mounted cutoff switch in general, don't forget they are there for when things go wrong and the motor suddenly jumps to full power from a shorted throttle or something... it's not just for normal stopping, it's your emergency safety override.
 
Re. two pin to three pin connector, most cutoffs use a simple switch with two wires, and the Bafang connectors only have metal in two of three holes for the brake ones. Those you can clip off and just make your own connector or hard wire it.

But some systems actually use a three wire Hall sensor setup, so you can't just do the two wire cross hookup. Some of the Izips are like that... such a giant PITA to diagnose, as it wants a specific voltage range coming in from the brakes, so you can't just disconnect the cutoffs to test the system...it won't run with zero voltage on the brake wires, making it crazy hard to figure out what component is actually keeping the system from running.
 
I am also exploring whether or not I really need an E-Brake on my Trike. This is my first build and I am using a Mac 10T geared hub motor. I have oversized hydraulic Shimano brakes and rotors up front on my tadpole Trike and I am used to stopping at higher speeds. So I wonder if I really need a switch. If I do tripwire does look interesting.

Jason
 
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