Then that wire, or whatever it connects to, is probably broken inside and needs to be replaced or respliced.
Thanks for that tip. I'll try that next time I get issues.amberwolf wrote: ↑Dec 25, 2017 7:10 pmBTW, sometimes when working on things that are powered on (like with batteries) continuity tests may fail to show the correct reading, because of voltages across things (that should be connected but aren't, for instance).
But a voltage check across things will show connections. If you connect a meter across a wire that should have continuity, and it shows a voltage, then it has a broken connection somewhere between the meter probes (otherwise there'd be no voltage because it'd just be a wire).
Thanks for that. I'm definitely using that when I need to.Voltron wrote: ↑Dec 25, 2017 7:21 pmYou have to be careful after sparking them as the terminals sometimes don't quite connect right afterwards depending on the spark size.
And you either have to have really steady hands and skinny probes, or really thin probes to go into the actual holes. Also if your math is good, you can leave one probe at one end, and keep subtracting the voltage of the previous cells as you move the other probe down the line.
Totally a guess, but if all the groups are even, then maybe where the power wires are attached to the BMS is getting loose, which could explain the fluctuating voltage. I just had to fix two batteries where the solder blob attaching the positive wires came off the board.
Yeah, that's left over foam you see there. It also has some hardy glue holding it in place.
I did that. That also checked out as okay with the 49v reading.
I've been pretty much making a habit of checking after every charge with my trusty multimeter. I also have a throttle indicator (though less reliable but gives me Ball park figure when riding) and I have my watt meter mounted on my "dash" that I sometimes use.dogman dan wrote: ↑Dec 28, 2017 9:18 amMy best guess is you had the same ol problem I've had a few times,, a bad plug on a charger disconnects it, and the light on the charger goes green. Green means charged, or disconnected.
Your problem might have been inside the charger, I've seen that too, but the result is the same, you take off with a low battery, and viola,, it stops quick.
Confirm your battery is really full each charge somehow, with a real voltmeter. If this was your problem, the old charger never got it full, or disconnected somehow, the problem will go away now.
It could be a loose bms wire, or plug pin too, that would spoof the bms that a cell group was empty.
I ruled out connection problems when I was fighting with it a few days ago. I even changed old connectors incrementally to rule out sources. Though I did the phases last later that night after opening the pack and taking the snaps I provided earlier. But I can't be certain that the phase connectors could have caused it because I did 2 trouble free test rides. One with this battery and another with my smaller 20ah battery pack.