Dear Cadence.

Robocog

100 W
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
108
I would like to document MY findings, about actually pedaling at cruise etc.

I got a 42 tooth wide narrow Ultra front sprocket, which had the perfect chainline. The rear Derailler is a XTR med. cage. This makes the shifting a LOT more precise. And sturdy. All this on a BBSHD. So, with this setup, and 9 levels of PAS, I can get proper cadence at slow speeds, with small setting of PAS, and top out at decent cadence at 28MPH. The rear cluster is 11-28. Full throttle, which I never do, gets me to 37MPH. 28 is VERY fast when cars cut you off turning right, and tbone ya when turning left. I don't see a need to go 33MPH with the 48 tooth gear. It would eat battery, and wear components.

Starting in low gear, my shift is fast and smooth, I just microstop pedaling, then return. No power interrupt, or fancy electronics.
This gets me to 25MPH as fast as the quickest cars. This makes me visible. It is safer. Then, they pass by.

Due to my 37MPH top speed, I see NO need for the higher gear. And 28MPH is as fast as I want to go generally.

At PAS of 3, My contribution is significant. At 4, little. My amp draw, on PAS 3, is 10amps. This sips battery.
This 10 amps, is only at cruise. At lower gears, it is 3 or 4amps. This saves components, saves battery capacity and longevity. Keeps heat minimal.

These are the sweet spots I have found.

Oh, I got some carbon wheels, 29er 30mm inner width, and Shwalbe marathon + in a 45mm width. IT is silent, REALLY silent, and smooth, I keep at 50PSI. I have full suspension. Also, the motor is almost silent, when I pedal to assist.

This is NOT to say it is nice to pedal NOT under power. I would strap it to the bus.
 
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