If not the ones included in the kit, then some other scheme/system that cuts the power to the motor when the brakes are applied or your hands aren't on the handlebars etc.EbikeAus wrote: ↑Feb 19, 2018 4:18 amOk, I hooked it all up and the back wheel spins. Happy days
Just have to finalise mounting the battery, controller and some cable management.. then should be golden.
Not sure whether to use the brake disconnects/ levers that came with the kit. Do you guys think this is a necessity?
I think the seatpost option will be out now as I've added a suntour ncx seatpost.
It's just for looks at this stage.
I like it a lot so far. Takes a little getting used to but def makes a big difference!
Yes I've seen the mudhugger. If I can't find anything else i'll probably get one.Lurkin wrote: ↑Apr 26, 2018 6:21 amMudhugger guard would be super nice, but its a pretty expensive option.
A guard on the front wheel is the most effective way to keep water off the controller. Failing that a guard over the controller is an option.
If all else fails, and you are caught out in the rain - pinch a dog poo bag from a dog park + electrical tape = water tight....
Thanks mateChalo wrote: ↑May 14, 2018 4:32 pmAre your mechanical discs generic cheap crap? There are good and horrible mechanical discs just like there are good and horrible hydraulics. (But if you give a hearty tug on the lines of both, you'll find that the mechanical ones work a lot better.)
(Also, you'll find that touching a cable to your brake rotor doesn't harm anything, while touching brake fluid to your rotor makes the brake very lame.).
Anyway, the cable brakes that are worth a damn these days are Avid BB7 and TRP Spyke. I'd try those before going for hydraulic, magnetic, pneumatic, optical, nuclear, or any other needlessly gizmodic brakes.