1) Correct, however DT has a conversion kit to convert them into QR 135mm.2old wrote: ↑Mar 14, 2018 8:45 pmSeveral considerations:
1) The DT wheels have rear spacing of 142mm; I couldn't find that spec for your bike, but check first. In any event, for an e-bike the Trek wheels are fine.
2) The Shimano hydraulic brakes are superb IMO.
If I were you, I would complete the conversion first, then decide whether you need to replace any parts. A more important consideration might be whether you should procure a Lekkie (or equivalent) chainring since the stock Bafang ones are enormous hunks of soft steel.
I am concerned about weight. My bike is not exactly light. I feel like in the long run I'd like to get the lekkie chainring so might as well get it with the kit and save on shipping.dustNbone wrote: ↑Mar 15, 2018 7:20 amIf you're not for some reason concerned about the weight, I wouldn't worry too much about the stock chainring.
It's heavy for sure, but I've been using a 46T one for a couple of years now on my daily rider and it works fine. It was a bit finicky about staying on when I first did the conversion, but that turned out to just be poorly adjusted derailleur tension.
I ride about 1000km a month average through the year, and seem to eat a chain/cassette about every 6 months. Honestly not much more than I did under pedal power.
I run an 8 speed 34-11 cassette and can't say I've ever needed lower gearing even with the big 46T front, it's a touring bike so I don't do anything beyond light off roading but I do live in Vancouver and climb many badass hills carrying sometimes substantial loads.
I don't use the PAS, and I generally don't use the motor to launch from a dead stop. Take up the slack and get it rolling, then hit the throttle.
I think the best thing I did was to replace my rear shifter with a grip shifter mounted on the left hand side. With the thumb throttle on the right I can shift very quickly and smoothly (after a bit of practice), without needing a shift sensor or ebrake. I think getting this right is key to a long life for your chain, cassette, freehub, etc.
Is it a threaded bottom bracket?
For me it's very comfortable, the actual movement between gears is very small. But I don't have bad wrists, so your mileage may vary.
I see what you mean, that sounds interesting, I might look into that. Thanks!dustNbone wrote: ↑Mar 15, 2018 6:47 pmFor me it's very comfortable, the actual movement between gears is very small. But I don't have bad wrists, so your mileage may vary.
I tried a few shifter configurations first and this is the one that lets me coordinate throttle and shifting the best, and getting back into 1st gear to stop is one motion instead of potentially several.
I like the sound of that, 42T it is! thanks.Raisedeyebrows wrote: ↑Mar 16, 2018 1:33 amGood and I might mention the 42T bling ring has been a small enough chainring for me to get up steep hills but still big enough to pedal at a bit higher speeds. I would keep your wheels and components and install the kit, if you're like me you'll really like it, climbs hills good and is very quiet.
That right there is probably the best advice I could've gotten.
In general yes but by trying to make sure you cut motor power before shifting gears, downshifting to a low gear before coming to a stop and starting again and using common sense to reduce impact/wear and tear on the drivetrain you can really minimize wear on it. I have not changed any Chain rings, cassettes, chains on either of my Bafang systems, if you're wearing them out rapidly that's not good.