First build - Help me decide on my battery

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Mar 18, 2018
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This is my first build and I'm pretty much set on the kit I want (Grin MXUS 3006 with the 25A Grinfineon controller).

I intend to buy my battery from EM3ev. I hesitate between two packs but I'm open to other advice. I'd prefer either a bottle mount or a triangle. Bottle mount sounds more interesting to me, although I realize if the mounting plate is not well built, it can be a problem. EM3ev's seem to be metal reinforced.

My two choices are based on my assumption that I should have a pack that provides continuous current at least equal to that if the controller (I have some slack since I will be able to limit it with the Cycle Analyst).

Candidate 1:
Bottle mount: https://em3ev.com/shop/preditor-l-47v-8-4ah-11-8ah-frame-battery
46.8V 11.8Ah 35/40A 13S4P "30Q" cells

Candidate 2:
Triangle: https://em3ev.com/shop/50v-14s6p-small-triangle-pack
50.4V 17.1Ah 34/51A 14S6P "PF" cells

They are both similar in price, but the bottle mount has almost 50% less capacity. so I suppose the 30Q cells are better quality.
My requirements for range are somewhat flexible. They're not that high. I'd need only about 10 km on my normal daily commute, and I (intend to) pedal. But I'd like to have maybe up to 50 km for longer trips.

The 30Q in Triangle is substantially more expensive and the specs of the PF (triangle) look fine to me. But what about the 2C rating? I'm wondering but they don't even give the C-ratings for the bottle mount packs.

I think otherwise my ideal candidate would be a bottle mount (if the case quality is there) with 48V at about 14Ah.

What's your general take on all this?

Thanks in advance for your input!
 
Two packs would be nice but the extra speed headroom a 50v pack provides make it a appealing pack to ride with. Choose a pack to suit what you want to do more , ride flat out at top speed or less speed trying for more distance. IMO it depends on what your likely routes distances are and what ride speed you will use most often. The 17AH 50v pack pedaling on the hills should be able to do 50k at a good speed.
 
Well it dont matter whether you choose 36V or 48V, that only depends on your needs for speed. So a 36V and 10Ah pack is 360Wh while you get the same Wh per distance, your 48V pack would only need roughly 7.5Ah which nets you 360Wh. 48V gets me at a good cruising speed for the road.

www.ebikes.ca - Tools - Motor Simulator
Play around with that, you can even go to Trip Simulator, go to the bottom where it says Elevation, and click on Google Maps and you can punch in your route and see how many Ah you need and at what Wh per distance you are using.
 
17AH 52v = 884wh cost $450 us + shipping (ship from Europe)
12AH 48v = 575wh cost $350 us + shipping

I use a 12AH 48v pack (54.6 volt peak) with at 350w fr hub motor @ 750w max input does 40kmh at full throttle travels 40K with more then 1/3 battery remaining running at top speed. The motor starts to slow at anything under 48 volts usually recharge it at 50 volts after my 18 k route.

Low shut off on a 48 volt pack is 42 volts but the bike starts slowing down (too much) at 48 volts it sags to 46 or 45 volt under load on my bike.
 
PF vs 30q is this. (per cell)

PF = 2900 mAh capacity with 10A max discharge continuous.
30q = 3000 mAh capacity with 15A max discharge continuous.
multiply Amps (discharge) times # parallel for real max discharge i.e. 14s4p 30q = 52v with 60 A continuous.
The quality of the cells is the same, the stats however are not. The 30q holds a little more and can easily give you more "oomph" but will also cost more of course. If you're using a 25A controller there's really no point in getting a 30q cell battery for more continuous output (EM3EV's posted stats on those batteries are ultra conservative IMHO, but their BMS probably isnt so great, YAY China!). I avoid chinese manufacturers if I can help it.
 
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