One of the main reasons I ride an e-bike is to "flatten hills" and to increase my cruising speed to about 5mph faster than I can normally pedal. Those modest benefits are enough to transform a largely impractical 16 mile bike commute to work into a practical one. 250W - 500W is enough power for this. I happen to have about 1000W available because that was what the cheapest kits available when I jumped into this offered. And I didn't want to jump in and spend a bunch-o-money at first. My next e-bike (or two) will be lower powered. I erred on the side of more is more.
No clue. That's more of a motorcycle than e-bike to me. But I'm sure it would be fun to ride such a motorized bike.
I'm thinking maybe "obviously illegal" isn't the ideal kind of first e-bike. Having working pedals is one of the statutory requirements in most places.
Without them, it also removes the ability to still ride it home if something goes wrong on the electric side of things.
Not everybody will want to choose between getting registered/licensed/insured and running a openly illegal motor vehicle, though. Using a mid drive with variable gearing means being able to combine capable climbing and relaxed cruising in a bike that conforms to the law without hassles.
Yep. The lower the motor power and the more varied the terrain the more important gearing becomes. That's why bikes have gears to begin with. Most human beans don't have very powerful "motors" and even small inclines can make cyclists painfully (literally) aware of that fact.Ernie wrote: ↑May 10 2018 1:30pmA lot of countries have a 250w eBike limit eg. Australia where I live for example, allows 200W on throttle or 250W if you only have PAS. Most people opt for the latter, which is a drama starting on a hill without a throttle to help.
In that situation you need gearing, a 250W hub motor won't pull you up much of a gradient unless you pedal hard in the right gear.
So, 250W with a mid drive is popular, in which case it needs gears. A 3 speed hub gear is often enough with a mid drive.
Here in AMERICA , law enforcement still seems to ignore ebikers and the " loose" ebike regulations.Chalo wrote: ↑May 10 2018 11:02amNot everybody will want to choose between getting registered/licensed/insured and running a openly illegal motor vehicle, though. Using a mid drive with variable gearing means being able to combine capable climbing and relaxed cruising in a bike that conforms to the law without hassles.
Running afoul of the law can be a lot more expensive than buying a quality e-bike. Not having to worry about it is worth something too.
I have to agree for the most part. Mid drives have more wear and tear on the drivetrain components of bottom bracket, chain , gears, etc. Hub motors have come such a long way from just 5-10 years ago, that they are mostly a no brainer and the best choice for most ebikers . In recent years, they have become lighter in weight , improved efficiency , have more options for speed or torque , more dependable and costs have come much lower then mid drive systems. Then, add in the ability to use inexpensive modifications like ferro fluid or heat sinks, and its easily possible and safe to run 3000 watts thru a hub motor rated 1500 watts.Alan B wrote: ↑May 11 2018 11:51amI met a guy with an expensive commercial ebike, I think it was a Kalkhoff. He was having shifting problems and trying to fix it by adjusting the derailleur, which was not working. He had about 700 mile on it.
Even legal commercial high quality ebikes wear their drivetrains, rather rapidly in many cases. His friend with a geared hubmotor had no such problems.
I was thinking about doing something like that, I only have a single 34 tooth front chain ring and it makes it hard to keep up with the speed the motor wants to do during PAS. Changing to a two cog ring sounds like a good idea, but I heard the chain might come off unless you have a front derailleur to keep it in place. Something to do with shorter teeth and little ramps or bumps they add to front chain rings to make them shift easier. The point being if you are going to do so, you might need to get two sprockets that were designed for single speed "fixie" style bikes to stop them coming off.motomech wrote: ↑May 11 2018 9:30pmConcerning #2-Although I removed the frt. deraileur, I left the smaller chain wheel on the bike(I actually use it for mounting the PAS disc.)so in the event I would have to pedal without power I can fit the chain to the lower gear by hand. That's plenty of low gears, but I haven't had to do that yet.