Belt drive cyclone 3000 help

So I'm trying to make the ultimate commuter KMX trike.
At first I decided to mix gas with electric, but realized I would become a cop magnet, decrease aerodynamics, and have top heavy weight where I don't want it on a recumbent. So I'm going full electric.
I need to commute 40 miles per day minimum so that's like 14,000 miles per year.
I'm trying make the parts as durable as possible so I don't have to constantly replace things. The ultimate goal of this trike is to have the lowest annual cost transport I can get.
So I'm going to try to do one of two things, use a belt drive or a hub motor. From my understanding hub motors are pretty slow and suck at going uphills comared to mid drives. My area is riddled with high grade hills so I think my choice is left to the cyclone set-up.
I want to use the gate belt drive system http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/ but they can't work on recumbents with the motor attached at the pedals so I need to use one of these https://lunacycle.com/parts/cyclone-parts/cyclone-double-sprocket-kit-for-trikes-recumbents-and-pedicabs/ or something similar in order to get the cyclone hooked up at the back of the trike and hope I can get the length and alignment correct.
I would need to use a single gear or IGH but I'm leaning toward a single gear at the moment because it's cheap and I don't need more than a single gear really.
The gates websites sells 22t freewheels and front/rear cogs in various sizes but I don't really know ho to approach this.
I'm not that knowledgeable about bike/trike stuff so the variables of this are too much for me. Does anyone have advice on how to go about this?

Is there a belt-pulley that fits the cyclone 3000? I could use a dual cog cassette and route the cyclone and the crank separately.
But I would need a way to mount the cyclone at the back and a belt-pulley that fits the cyclone. What is the key notch type shaft that the cyclone 3000 uses called?

My teeth cringe, when I read Cyclone and Ultimate in the same sentence.

A belt drive is not a bad idea, but very few did build ebikes with one. So, unless it’s powerful enough to use a motorcycle belt drive, or low enough power to be able to use a bicycle belt drive, you are up for a demonstration of your fabrication skills. :wink:

coinmaster said:

Is there a belt-pulley that fits the cyclone 3000? I could use a dual cog cassette and route the cyclone and the crank separately.
But I would need a way to mount the cyclone at the back and a belt-pulley that fits the cyclone. What is the key notch type shaft that the cyclone 3000 uses called?

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Still rooting for you!

There is little point to using a belt with the Cyclone since it runs with normal bike chain and is already very quiet. In other words it's a waste of time.

coinmaster said:

Is there a belt-pulley that fits the cyclone 3000? I could use a dual cog cassette and route the cyclone and the crank separately.
But I would need a way to mount the cyclone at the back and a belt-pulley that fits the cyclone. What is the key notch type shaft that the cyclone 3000 uses called?

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Ask cyclone directly, they have put belts on various motors.

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You seem to have missed the point of why the Cyclone and other mid-drives are better for climbing. The reason is that they are able to take advantage of the variable gears that a rear gear cluster makes available. That make it possible for them to operate at an efficient and high power RPM over a wide range of situations. If you go with a fixed gear, you get rid of that advantage. If you go with an IGH, there's a good chance that the Cyclone will destroy it.

If you run the Cyclone at 3000 watts, why not consider running a DD hub motor at a similar maximum wattage? If your trike has a 20" rear wheel, 3000 watts will get you up a LOT of different hills. Heck, at under 1500 watts, a plain ol' 9C 2706 will get you up a 10% incline at 22 mph (no help from you) and never overheat (especially if you use Statorade). Go to 2000 watts and you can go up a 15% incline until you run out of batteries. With a 26" wheel and 2000 watts you can go up 10% at almost 26 mph and at the same watts up a 15% grade at 16 mph for about 7 minutes before overheating. You can go even faster if you are willing to through more amps at it.

BTW, you never did mention how steep your hills are.

coinmaster said:

I need to commute 40 miles per day minimum so that's like 14,000 miles per year.

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You need a good car...

furcifer said:

coinmaster said:

I need to commute 40 miles per day minimum so that's like 14,000 miles per year.

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You need a good car...

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And pump 3 bike's worth of gas every year? :lol:

furcifer said:

coinmaster said:

I need to commute 40 miles per day minimum so that's like 14,000 miles per year.

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You need a good car...

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I was doing 32 miles a day for about a year before our studio was moved closer to my home. It is now more like 19 miles per day. My net increase in commute time compared to driving was almost an hour. But the side-benefit was that I was getting 10 hours of good exercise every week at the cost of only five hours of my free time. So what you "need" has everything to do with what you are trying to accomplish.

Tommm said:

And pump 3 bike's worth of gas every year? :lol:

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Well when you put it like that.