Some questions to clarify before I can help:
Kenny'sID wrote: ↑
May 23, 2018 3:53 pm
I tried the throttle just before I did this and all was well.
So at this point, you had all three wires of the throttle wired correctly to the three wires from the controller?
Which color on the throttle went to which color on the controller?
when I moved the thumb throttle to put it on the other side, I tried to do it without disconnecting the wire, and they pulled loose,
Did they pull loose from the connectors, or were they just twisted together, or were they soldered? How exactly did they pull loose, and from what?
I just now got through putting a new controller on it even though it made no sense at all it needed one, and the same problem.
This is confusing. Does this mean that when it worked, you used a different controller than when it did not work?
Or does this mean that when it worked, you used the first controller, then when it failed to work after moving it, you then tested it with a new controller and it still does not work?
Do you already know for sure that the new controller itself works, and that you have the correct wiring from it to the throttle and any other controls (brakes, 3speed switch, etc), and that you have the correct wiring for the phase and hall wires to the motor? If not, then you should not use the new controller to troubleshoot the throttle problem becuase you can't know which of the wiring on it is wrong, and thus you are troubleshooting several problems at once, making them all much harder to solve.
I figured since I wanted the 1500w controller on there anyway (holds out better than the 1000W),
What does "holds out better" mean?
Does this mean that the 1000w controller has existing known problems that the 1500w controller does not? If so, what problems specifically does it have, and when, under what conditions?
If you simply mean that it has a higher rated power, that doesn't mean anything other than it is harder on your battery and your motor, while it supplies more current to accelerate harder or climb hills at a higher speed, or possibly maintain a faster speed depending on your system voltage, motor winding, wheel diameter, aerodynamics, and other system-dependent and terrain/weather-dependent variables.
It's a simple thumb throttle, no indicator lights just throttle, and for some reason, don't recall why, of the three wires that the throttle has, a red, green, and black, I had the red and green soldered together. IOW the green and red are the same terminal now and then the black for two connections. I have a red blue and black coming from the controller. It was running fine with that configuration
I can't imagine how it could work at all like that, if it's a hall throttle, because it requires power and ground on separate wires, and outputs a throttle signal on a separate wire. It requires all three on separate wires or it won't work.
If it is a potentiometer throttle, then it can be used as a two or a three wire throttle, but only if the controller is designed for that type. If it is not designed for a potentiometer throttle, then you would have had to build a circuit with extra resistors so that the potentiometer throttle will operate correctly on a controller designed for a hall throttle.
What it sounds like is that it was wired with all three wires correctly on the original controller before moving the throttle, then after moving it the wires were accidentally soldered together isntead of separately, and that would cause your problem.
First question, can I bypass the throttle and test it by just putting the wires together?
Not if it is a hall throttle type controller. Almost all ebike controllers are this type. Only a few are desigend for potentiometer types.
If it is a potentiometer type controller, then doing so (connecting power to signal) will suddenly give you full throttle, unless it has internal protections against that (some do, so it won't work either, because it thinks the throttle is shorted).
Second, if so, what wires of the red, blue and black from the controller do I connect to that 3 wires turned to two wire connection coming out of the throttle? the one mentioned?
It requires all three wires to be separate, if it is a hall throttle.
For wiring, what wire combination worked before? You must use exactly the same one.
If you have not used this controller with this throttle, you should first put the old controller back on and troubleshoot with that so you are not trying to fix multiple wiring problems at the same time.