A Weekend (or two) Project

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markz   100 GW

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A Weekend (or two) Project

Post by markz » Jul 01 2018 8:03pm

This is what I've been working on the last two days of this GLORIOUS Canada Day Long Weekend.

Motor will be my current MXUS 3000W direct drive in 4T but if all goes well, I will slip in a 5000W model or a QS model.

Just finished 4 clamping mechanisms for my Norco City Glide.

Concept Picture, random pic off internet for brain storming idea's.
Norco CityGlide 1.jpg
I originally was going to use Cyclone BB plate with clamps, but just went with all clamping plating action instead

Clamping action I used 5"L x 1"W x 1/4" plate and angle iron 2"x 3/16
Two cross beams on either side, I will get 5/16" thick 3/4" wide and 24" long.
The BB is a 68 x 110 or 113, old style. I am wondering if I should buy a normal BB and go 68x121/122/126 or a Cyclone 68x148 or 178.
As it stands right now, the original 68x110 or 113 clears the steel at the BB with the Cyclone crank freewheel.
Havent yet checked chainline from crank to cassette. Once I order the 68x126 it should suffice.
Nocro Cityglide Clamps.jpg
Nocro Cityglide Clamps.jpg (157.58 KiB) Viewed 380 times
I tell ya, having only a DeWalt cordless went through 4 battery charges. Some drill bits were useless while others chipped away nicely. Angle Iron was easier. I thought because it was thinner, but its bc its HOT ROLLED STEEL. The Flat Bar was COLD ROLLED STEEL and the 1/4" took a lot longer to drill through. I priced out two pieces in 5/16 x 3/4 by 2' and hot rolled is $31.92 while cold is $42cdn. I will go hot rolled for the orange cross bar, if I need more strength I will cut 3/4" x 5" in cold rolled and weld it.

Everything is drive side flush with BB clamp.
One thing to note is the clamp by the BB is inline with the BB retainer on drive side.
The width of the clamps are 140mm to match the flats on the motor and of course the motor axle sticks out beyond that.
Rear wheel clamp is bolted through the kickstand bolt. Nothing else is bolted to the frame. Should I or not?

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amberwolf   100 GW

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Re: A Weekend (or two) Project

Post by amberwolf » Jul 02 2018 1:19am

I re-read the whole post several times, but I can't find anywhere that says what the clamping stuff and bars are for.

There's a tiny part that implies they're for the MXUS hubmotor, which might imply they are for making a middrive with it...but it doesn't actually say.

So...what are they for? That might help us help you figure out if whatever you're doing with them will work....

markz   100 GW

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Re: A Weekend (or two) Project

Post by markz » Jul 02 2018 12:08pm

Oh yea sorry. Will attach the clamp pictures I forgot to add.
clamps1.jpg
clamps1.jpg (135.61 KiB) Viewed 319 times
clamps2.jpg
clamps2.jpg (140.93 KiB) Viewed 321 times
motor mount.jpg
There might be a problem with the 140mm width for motor flats down to BB, depending on the what bb spindle length I go.
amberwolf wrote:
Jul 02 2018 1:19am
....

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amberwolf   100 GW

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Re: A Weekend (or two) Project

Post by amberwolf » Jul 02 2018 12:29pm

Well, making a lot of assumptions from the pics since for some reason I can't understand you still haven't explained what you're doing or given details:


You're probably going to have to cut the MXUS axles off fairly close to the motor covers, probably too close for the nuts and other antirotation hardware to go on, or else it's going to be so wide you may have to ride bowlegged with your pants wrapped tightly to your legs with straps or something, to prevent catching them on the axle ends.

This means you'll need to build pinching dropouts to secure the axle.

This also means that whatever you're going to use to drive the chainrings from the motor will probably need to be pretty close to the motor cover itself.


More stuff later, gotta go to work.

markz   100 GW

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Re: A Weekend (or two) Project

Post by markz » Jul 08 2018 7:27pm

Mid Drive with a Direct Drive Motor above the crank.

For how crude I did my disc mount bracket, this setup works great!
I cut a spring in the old rear der.
Now I am waiting on the cyclone bb.
Currently 22T from a crankset on the motors disc mount, stationary on the 36T freewheel.
Plan to go 14T on motor if its not too small then 44T-crank-to-motor/48/42 Cyclone Crank when I get them, 11-36 freewheel.
Motor mounts will change so motor fits lower.
Cruised around a bit, but with no pedals its awkward.
Silence is bliss.
Works Great.jpg
Temporary setup, as I only have one working motor.
Works Great.jpg (171.9 KiB) Viewed 195 times
OK I changed it up, this is better then before bc I can pedal.
working good.jpg
working good.jpg (168.29 KiB) Viewed 169 times
Currently bb is 68x113 and clears everything, the 122.5 or 127 will help clear the motor axle, along with wider pedals.


Here is the other side, notice how I have the "Torque Arm" it was off my other hub bike. I will convert the other side its just I cut the other one up so I have to make another. A few issues I notice while riding. Horizontal axis of the motor shifts due to torque so I need a top brace. The chain closest to the ground, touches the knobby tires. Also I have to redo the motor gear mount. Its not even centered. I got a buddy who works at a CNC shop I will get him to do up the adapter and a new much larger shaft with cover plates modified.
feels good riding.jpg
feels good riding.jpg (170.09 KiB) Viewed 166 times

markz   100 GW

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Re: A Weekend (or two) Project

Post by markz » Jul 18 2018 7:04pm

I changed it up again, before was temporary, this is going toward permanent setup now.
The bottom bracket is the older style with bearing balls on either side held in a cage, then the square taper axle, it is 68 and I'd guess the spindle length is 110'ish. Problem is when I tighten the Cyclone crank to proper torque spec, it hits the thread on bearing race. so when the motor is going it will spin the thread on locker. Just need a 68 x 122+ until the wider Cyclone bb comes in, whenever that is.

Been outta the game for a bit due to broken chains, miscommunication with the guy who sold me the 41T cog that normally bolts onto the spokes, but this one had the IS disc mount holes I had to enlarge because the China basement that made them, werent exact.

This is not ideal, 41T motor to 44/44T crank to 2nd largest cog maybe 28, no shifting capabilities yet (that RD is just a tensioner) That rear cass or F.wheel is a little pooched plus its friggin' old. Would pancake doing circles just like last week. I am either building a regular rear 26" or buying one from Chain Reaction Cycle.
Cyclone crank direct drive mid drive.jpg
Cyclone crank direct drive mid drive.jpg (149.7 KiB) Viewed 147 times
That 41T disc mount cog is no good, has slow take off but very fast once up to speed, plus it heated up my motor pretty darn good, and I think it just eat up a ton of wh/kilometers, full charge these days should get me 18km and I only got 8km if I am lucky. It will suffice for another day then 16T time. GrinTech only sells one, the 16T and after playing around with the motor simulator thats probably all they will have, no need to go a higher tooth count.

--------------------------

Final Edit

I am done with this project, I rode around with a 16T mounted to the disc mount side of the motor and it was all fine, while the 41T got the motor hot to quickly. If I was going to make this permanent, I would have done the mount differently. Bottom of seat Tube to Top Bar and a 3rd from motor axle to seat clamp area with an adjustable threaded rod. Too much torque forces the motor down on 16T gear side then the chain would fall off the crank. I fixed mine by a simple adjustable threaded rod from just to the side of motor axle to a tube clamp on top bar.

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