markz
100 TW
This is what I've been working on the last two days of this GLORIOUS Canada Day Long Weekend.
Motor will be my current MXUS 3000W direct drive in 4T but if all goes well, I will slip in a 5000W model or a QS model.
Just finished 4 clamping mechanisms for my Norco City Glide.
Concept Picture, random pic off internet for brain storming idea's.
View attachment 1
I originally was going to use Cyclone BB plate with clamps, but just went with all clamping plating action instead
Clamping action I used 5"L x 1"W x 1/4" plate and angle iron 2"x 3/16
Two cross beams on either side, I will get 5/16" thick 3/4" wide and 24" long.
The BB is a 68 x 110 or 113, old style. I am wondering if I should buy a normal BB and go 68x121/122/126 or a Cyclone 68x148 or 178.
As it stands right now, the original 68x110 or 113 clears the steel at the BB with the Cyclone crank freewheel.
Havent yet checked chainline from crank to cassette. Once I order the 68x126 it should suffice.
I tell ya, having only a DeWalt cordless went through 4 battery charges. Some drill bits were useless while others chipped away nicely. Angle Iron was easier. I thought because it was thinner, but its bc its HOT ROLLED STEEL. The Flat Bar was COLD ROLLED STEEL and the 1/4" took a lot longer to drill through. I priced out two pieces in 5/16 x 3/4 by 2' and hot rolled is $31.92 while cold is $42cdn. I will go hot rolled for the orange cross bar, if I need more strength I will cut 3/4" x 5" in cold rolled and weld it.
Everything is drive side flush with BB clamp.
One thing to note is the clamp by the BB is inline with the BB retainer on drive side.
The width of the clamps are 140mm to match the flats on the motor and of course the motor axle sticks out beyond that.
Rear wheel clamp is bolted through the kickstand bolt. Nothing else is bolted to the frame. Should I or not?
Motor will be my current MXUS 3000W direct drive in 4T but if all goes well, I will slip in a 5000W model or a QS model.
Just finished 4 clamping mechanisms for my Norco City Glide.
Concept Picture, random pic off internet for brain storming idea's.
View attachment 1
I originally was going to use Cyclone BB plate with clamps, but just went with all clamping plating action instead
Clamping action I used 5"L x 1"W x 1/4" plate and angle iron 2"x 3/16
Two cross beams on either side, I will get 5/16" thick 3/4" wide and 24" long.
The BB is a 68 x 110 or 113, old style. I am wondering if I should buy a normal BB and go 68x121/122/126 or a Cyclone 68x148 or 178.
As it stands right now, the original 68x110 or 113 clears the steel at the BB with the Cyclone crank freewheel.
Havent yet checked chainline from crank to cassette. Once I order the 68x126 it should suffice.
I tell ya, having only a DeWalt cordless went through 4 battery charges. Some drill bits were useless while others chipped away nicely. Angle Iron was easier. I thought because it was thinner, but its bc its HOT ROLLED STEEL. The Flat Bar was COLD ROLLED STEEL and the 1/4" took a lot longer to drill through. I priced out two pieces in 5/16 x 3/4 by 2' and hot rolled is $31.92 while cold is $42cdn. I will go hot rolled for the orange cross bar, if I need more strength I will cut 3/4" x 5" in cold rolled and weld it.
Everything is drive side flush with BB clamp.
One thing to note is the clamp by the BB is inline with the BB retainer on drive side.
The width of the clamps are 140mm to match the flats on the motor and of course the motor axle sticks out beyond that.
Rear wheel clamp is bolted through the kickstand bolt. Nothing else is bolted to the frame. Should I or not?