Yuba Supermarche or similar build for quick acceleration with heavy loads

arthurtuxedo

100 W
Joined
May 16, 2017
Messages
111
Location
San Francisco, CA
I posted back in February to get input on a setup for hauling heavy items. I'm still brainstorming the idea, but today I was able to borrow a Bullitt with the Shimano STEPS mid-drive to test it out. Basically I'm looking for a cargo bike that can deliver small but heavy items (think ~200 lbs of car batteries) around San Francisco, and have decided that a front loader is the way to go. I liked the Bullitt, but I can't see most of the field guys being willing to use it because a lot of the deliveries are on streets where bikes are effectively banned. There is no bike lane, the roads are full of pot holes, and drivers have been in miserable traffic all day so they're stressed out and competitive. When they see something with pedals in front of them, it is like a red matador cape in front of a bull and they are liable to make aggressive, dangerous passing maneuvers but lack the driving skills to do it safely. I need something that can beat most cars being driven with a heavy pedal, but only for the first 10 MPH. An initial burst of acceleration should cause them to back off and not try to aggressively pass.

I was thinking that the best bet would be a Yuba Supermarche (20" wheels front and back) with a slow-wind rear DD hub and about 3 kW. That should provide enough acceleration to make our employees want to use it, tackle hills, and allow for extra-heavy runs hauling a Bikes at Work trailer (different part of town, so fast acceleration is not necessary when using the trailer). Top speed is not important, and in fact I'd like to keep it around 25 MPH or below, both to keep our employees out of trouble and in order to avoid needing front and rear suspension. I'm looking for torque to get off the line at slightly greater acceleration than car traffic (but only from 0-10, after that it's OK if it doesn't keep up) and to get up our famous SF hills, which is why I am thinking about a slow-wind motor and 20" wheel. The battery will be 72V, not sure what the current rating is but I think it's quite high, definitely 40A and probably more like 100. We have a lot of these lying around for reasons I won't get into. We also have some BAC 2000 and 3000's that I can press into service, so phase current limiting and field weakening are on the table. The batteries are easy to swap and we have a surplus, so efficiency is not very important.

My main concern is that with heavy loads and steep hills, even a slow-wind motor will just turn into a space heater rather than a mode of propulsion. I could be talked into a mid-drive like the BBSHD, but I really don't want to put that kind of strain on a bicycle gear system on a regular basis, especially since if the thing breaks in the middle of someone's shift, they're going to be on the clock the whole time and that's a lot of $$ to pay someone to wait for the van to come pick them up. It would also put the kibosh on this whole project since the end goal is to replace the van for 95% of trips, not to need a van rescue itself. A hub-motor should be more reliable, and if it does crap out we'll provide a nice low gear ratio so they can limp back to HQ.

Am I right to lean toward the 20" Supermarche, or could the same goals be accomplished with a Bullitt or similar 26" rear wheel? Does a mid-level DD like the Crystalyte 3525 make the most sense, or could I accomplish the same thing with a lighter one like the 9C 2707? Are there additional considerations that I'm not taking into account?
 
You want a small wheel with a large DD motor.

You won't get the best efficiency but it will be reliable.

If you go mid drive or geared hub you will have a lot more maintenance and you'll run the risk of burning gears.
 
Buy the QS 205 in a 16’’ moped rim. It will fit 20’’ bicycle tires as well. It is available in a large variety of windings, very powerful and reliable. Acceleration will come of battery C-rate and choice of controller.
 
Low Turn Count Motors gives you higher rpm/volt and in a small wheel your speed is slower compared to a 26" wheel. So so get the 3T or 4T winding if you are going to go small wheel. Those windings also allow you to pump more juice into the windings, compared to a higher Turn Count motor. Get a controller where you can play around with the phase amps and set your own lvc. Your controller and motor will stay cooler for longer on the steepest of steep hills or the heaviest of the heavy loads. You can also look into a 2wd setup where your 16" wheel with hub motor on the rear and a freewheeling MAC 1500W geared motor up front to obtain even more power! Wire them into the same throttle, use two different controllers and be darn sure your battery can handle it all!
 
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I'd recommend two wheel drive, and as noted above, small diameter wheels with a big DD motor will work. Geared motors would be more efficient but if you have heat buildup aren't necessarily as reliable as the DDs, which are easier to cool. DD motors will be less efficient using the hard startups in traffic/etc. often, but will "just work" unless there's a wheel failure, or you work them so hard you break axles. ;)

With two wheel drive you have redundancy in case of failure, and it accelerates quicker from a stop than a single motor with the same power, under heavy loads.

Look at my SB Cruiser trike, 2WD in the rear, which gets sub-4-second 0-20MPH. With me on it the whole thing is a few hundred pounds, and it'll still accelerate well even with a trailer full of dog, dogfood, or piano. ;)

It's using two MXUS 450x's in 20" (bicycle) / 16" (moped) rims, radially laced with 13g spokes (might have 13/14 butted, can't remember ATM), using Shinko SR714 2.5" moped/mc tires with CST mc tubes. Powered by a couple of "generic" controllers; a 15fet noname that started as a 30A (added extra shunt for more than double that), anda 12fet older grinfineon 40A.

40Ah 14s EIG NMC battery pack to power it, gets around 40 miles at 20MPH max, 15-17mph average in traffic.

You could use the same setup on a cargo bike or trike of your own design or prebuilt, or build something like the SB Cruiser (which could haul those car batteries in the cargo deck without a trailer).


Personally, I'd rather have larger (26"+) wheels, and waste more power starting up from a stop, to get better ride quality (cuz small wheels on even moderately bad roads suck, and aren't great even on not-so-perfect roads, with heavy cargo and no suspension for the load).

Only reason SB Cruiser has the small wheels was design constraints at the time. If I were to rebuild it, it'd have bigger wheels, now that I know how to get around the constraints..
 
Thanks for the recommendations! I will look for a model that has a 26" rear wheel with a lower step frame and supports wider tires than the Bullitt. A suspension seat-post wouldn't hurt, either. The front tire doesn't need as much TLC because of the long wheelbase. Even with a skinny 20" wheel, no suspension fork, and loaded with cargo, I barely felt the bumps that happened way up there. The ones the rear tire rolled over were a different story.

Does anyone know if the BAC 2000 or 3000 controllers support torque throttle, or is that a Phaserunner-specific feature? That would make it a lot easier to go 2WD with different motors or wheel sizes.
 
The Workcycles Kr8 is looking pretty nice, and not as pricey as the Urban Arrow. The rear carrier should hold one of our toolboxes without modification, and the cargo platform looks like it could hold at least as much as the Bullitt. It supports rim brakes, so if I use disc brakes that should mean plenty of extra clearance for a wide tire like the Schwalbe Big Apple 26 x 2.35", right? It has the same rear as the Fr8 if anyone with experience would like to chime in on how cushy a rear tire I would be able to fit.
 
arthurtuxedo said:
The front tire doesn't need as much TLC because of the long wheelbase. Even with a skinny 20" wheel, no suspension fork, and loaded with cargo, I barely felt the bumps that happened way up there. The ones the rear tire rolled over were a different story.
But your cargo *will* feel the bumps on the front tire, at least more than you will. Especially cargo near the front end.

If the cargo is very heavy, it will be harder on the front wheel, too.

That's the issues I see with my own stuff here, with smaller wheels. :/
 
I’d go for the small wheels, considering the hills in Sf. A big hub in a small wheel, is a monster of acceleration. It doesn’t need a second motor on the front, because it can lift the cargo and the front motor off the ground.

Small wheels, wide rims, tires as big as the frame does clear, and you have a robust cargo ebike.
 
I agree with the 2WD recommendation. With those hills, a DD motor will roast fairly quickly if you are carrying any kind of heavy payload. There have been a few builds with two motors that performed very well under severe conditions.

I wouldn't rule out a BBSHD either. You can gear it low enough to handle any hill. Long term it will mean more maintenance, but their track record is very good.
 
Right now I'm leaning back towards the Supermarche with the Crystalyte HT3525. I found out today that we have a bunch of DOT 16" moped tires so I'm hoping there is enough clearance to put one of those on the back. That should make it the equal of most 26" rear wheels for bumps and potholes. Between the 72 V battery and a BAC controller, it should be quite the acceleration beast, but I can always wash, rinse, and repeat with another motor on the front if it is not enough. Hills I am not so worried about since the parts of the city we service don't have any long climbs. They're steep, but they're short.
 
fechter said:
I agree with the 2WD recommendation. With those hills, a DD motor will roast fairly quickly if you are carrying any kind of heavy payload. There have been a few builds with two motors that performed very well under severe conditions.

I wouldn't rule out a BBSHD either. You can gear it low enough to handle any hill. Long term it will mean more maintenance, but their track record is very good.

I could still be talked into it, but it just seems like a big DD on a small wheel can accomplish the same thing with fewer headaches. When you use the throttle with a BBSHD, does it spin the cranks or can you leave your feet stationary?
 
arthurtuxedo said:
I could still be talked into it, but it just seems like a big DD on a small wheel can accomplish the same thing with fewer headaches. When you use the throttle with a BBSHD, does it spin the cranks or can you leave your feet stationary?

You can leave your feet stationary. It has a freewheel clutch to prevent driving the pedals.

I have both types. One DD hub motor and one BBSHD. I run them on some pretty steep hills off road. The hub motor sucks more power to go up steep hills but it goes up the hills. As long as the hills aren't too long and you have some cooling time, it will work out well. I also observed that if I can keep my speed above something like 12mph, the air cooling will keep up with the motor heating and not overheat.

The BBSHD can go a lot of places the hub motor couldn't go without overheating. It can climb 15-20% grades for over an hour without getting too hot (but I do have it geared very low). Average speed on these climbs is pretty slow due to terrain.

I have temp sensors on both motors and this is a nice thing to have while figuring out the limitations.
 
fechter said:
You can leave your feet stationary. It has a freewheel clutch to prevent driving the pedals.

I have both types. One DD hub motor and one BBSHD. I run them on some pretty steep hills off road. The hub motor sucks more power to go up steep hills but it goes up the hills. As long as the hills aren't too long and you have some cooling time, it will work out well. I also observed that if I can keep my speed above something like 12mph, the air cooling will keep up with the motor heating and not overheat.

The BBSHD can go a lot of places the hub motor couldn't go without overheating. It can climb 15-20% grades for over an hour without getting too hot (but I do have it geared very low). Average speed on these climbs is pretty slow due to terrain.

I have temp sensors on both motors and this is a nice thing to have while figuring out the limitations.

Great, thank you for the feedback! I'm still leaning towards the DD, but the wind might be blowing the other way tomorrow. :)
 
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