Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
FlyByNight   1 mW

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Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by FlyByNight » Jul 26 2018 9:23pm

Hello everyone. A couple years ago I purchased a used Recumbent Trike (WizWheelz Zoomer - Pre-TerraTrike). This trike came with a BMC V3 motor in the rear 26" wheel. Attached to it is a 12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition and a Cycle Analyst V2.4.

With the trike came 8 Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C Lipo Pack in parallel & Series for a total of 36V and 20,000mah. The current setup is nominal 37 volts, fully charged to 41 volts. I was told that the Motor and controller as setup can increase to 55.5 volts nominal, 61.5 volts fully charged. Since 5S batteries are not so common I wanted to upgrade them to the following --> Multistar High Capacity 20000mAh 6S 10C Multi-Rotor Lipo Pack , but I know nothing about batteries or the setup even after all my research. I can't seem to figure out if this would work with the setup as it is. My plan would be to have 4 of the MultiStar running in Parallel & Series totalling 44.4V and 40,000mah.

My goal here is not to gain super speed (I'm happy with the current 50km/h that the trike can go: I do NOT want more speed; I want MORE distance)

Could anyone offer me any good solid advice on this please and thanks.
Last edited by FlyByNight on Jul 27 2018 12:07am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by FlyByNight » Jul 26 2018 10:15pm

As for the Solar portion of this. I have the following Schematic that I designed. I used 2 batteries in the schematic (even though there will be more) as it seemed like a better idea at the time, but found out it would weigh more and I would prefer less weight (The MultiStar are also less expensive). The ideal though is to hopefully have the battery setup I asked about in my above message. I would love to have some kind of solar setup to be able to charge these batteries on the go as I travel across Canada. The idea is that the Solar Panels will weigh less than having to bring a battery charger. Plus I hope to be able to charge them while I am riding and even possibly use battery power as it is charging while I am riding. The schematic is below:

Image
Last edited by FlyByNight on Jul 27 2018 12:08am, edited 1 time in total.

lionman   100 W

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by lionman » Jul 26 2018 10:57pm

Justin from Grin built a tandem solar trike for Sun Trip with an interesting panel mounting solution.

Its detailed in this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=93482&start=75


I would be tempted to wire the lipos to a smart BMS and feed the BMS via PWM controller.

The smart BMS will allow cell level monitoring via smartphone to ensure you are always at safe voltages and will help keep the packs well balanced. You can configure the balance voltage and upper and lower cut off voltages at safe levels and improve the safety and reliability of the packs.

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by lionman » Jul 26 2018 11:10pm

also, I don't think your current set up is 37v nominal?

This would be 10S and if your packs are all 6S, 10 isn't divisible by 6 so something isn't right.

So either the packs are 5S (you mistyped?) or you are running 2 6S packs is series which will be 12S or 44.4V nominal, 50.4V max.

If the controller is rated for 48V then you shouldn't have an issue running 12S on it. It should handle at least up the 14S ok.

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by FlyByNight » Jul 27 2018 12:12am

I had to edit my original post... Realized a typo. The batteries I was using were: 8 x Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C - 30C Lipo Pack. I had 2 sets of 4. 1 set running in parallel to give me 18.5v 20,000mah. I then have a second set exactly the same. these two are then linked together in series giving me a total of 37V 20,000mah.

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MadRhino   100 GW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by MadRhino » Jul 27 2018 11:55am

4110 mosfets in a Lyen controller can handle 24s RC lipo. We upgrade them 12 fet Lyen controllers to feed 10kw with 84v nominal RC lipo.

So, no problem with a 12s battery. Most likely it is programmable and, if you have the programming cable, you should set the new LVC.

Your actual battery assembly is much better than big Multistar bricks, but they may be old and lower than their rated capacity. That must be measured to know first, If you need more range.
If they are at their full rated capacity, a 12s assembly of 2 Multistar bricks will not give you much more range.

If you don’t need more speed, I would suggest to stay at 10s. 5s lipo is available, equivalent or better than those that you have now. I would assemble 6 bricks of Zippy Flightmax 5s 8000 mah for 10s 24 A/h, for same speed, better range.
Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool.
Current bikes
Street:
Trek Session 10 mod. Variable geometry. 70mph
Dirt:
Santa Cruz V10. 50mph

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by motomech » Jul 27 2018 4:01pm

FlyByNight wrote:
Jul 26 2018 9:23pm
Hello everyone. A couple years ago I purchased a used Recumbent Trike (WizWheelz Zoomer - Pre-TerraTrike). This trike came with a BMC V3 motor in the rear 26" wheel. Attached to it is a 12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition and a Cycle Analyst V2.4.

With the trike came 8 Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C Lipo Pack in parallel & Series for a total of 36V and 20,000mah. The current setup is nominal 37 volts, fully charged to 41 volts. I was told that the Motor and controller as setup can increase to 55.5 volts nominal, 61.5 volts fully charged. Since 5S batteries are not so common I wanted to upgrade them to the following --> Multistar High Capacity 20000mAh 6S 10C Multi-Rotor Lipo Pack , but I know nothing about batteries or the setup even after all my research. I can't seem to figure out if this would work with the setup as it is. My plan would be to have 4 of the MultiStar running in Parallel & Series totalling 44.4V and 40,000mah.

My goal here is not to gain super speed (I'm happy with the current 50km/h that the trike can go: I do NOT want more speed; I want MORE distance)

Could anyone offer me any good solid advice on this please and thanks.
Since the Multistar is not available in 5S bricks, 6S bricks seem to be your only option. You could, of course, use another brand, but large capacity bricks are not readily avail., or if they are, they will be pricey. 12S is a very good system Voltage w/ little drawbacks, even if you don't make use of the increased speed available.
Even though you plan to carry plenty of battery capacity, you will want to retain the Low Voltage Cut-off (LVC)in the controller, so a reprogram would be in the cards.
There is an advantage to staying w/ a 2S/2P string. By having only 4) bricks, you can "bulk charge" and ck and balance using only 4) Battery Medics;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/150W-3- ... 17404.html
I have lots of posts on how I charge my 12S/20,000 multistar pack w/ a Mean Well HLG-320-48A and Battery Medics, just search my posts using key words such as, Battery Medic, Multistar, bulk charge, etc.
I have a solar charge system that I play around with, although 95% of the time I use my Mean Well.
I use this cheap "boost" controller, which makes my system very simple(only panels to controller to the pack), but it has a rather limited out-put.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC ... UTF8&psc=1
I only have 2) 100 Watt panels in series for 24 Volts and if I added two more, I could input 48 V into the controller and increase the charging rate significaly.
Note; I connect my bricks in series first and then parallel then using parallel Y-connectors. W/ the Multistar and a low dis-charge rate system, you can use the Turnigy 14 AWG silicone wire and 6mm bullet connectors, which helps keep things neat.
Motomech


'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100H 201 frt. mounted, 14S Multistar LiPoly, elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A, Crazy Bobs on Alex DM32's 21 to 22 MPH. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28151&p=1373714&hilit=Idrive#p13737

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by FlyByNight » Jul 27 2018 6:09pm

MadRhino wrote:
Jul 27 2018 11:55am
4110 mosfets in a Lyen controller can handle 24s RC lipo. We upgrade them 12 fet Lyen controllers to feed 10kw with 84v nominal RC lipo.

So, no problem with a 12s battery. Most likely it is programmable and, if you have the programming cable, you should set the new LVC.

Your actual battery assembly is much better than big Multistar bricks, but they may be old and lower than their rated capacity. That must be measured to know first, If you need more range.
If they are at their full rated capacity, a 12s assembly of 2 Multistar bricks will not give you much more range.

If you don’t need more speed, I would suggest to stay at 10s. 5s lipo is available, equivalent or better than those that you have now. I would assemble 6 bricks of Zippy Flightmax 5s 8000 mah for 10s 24 A/h, for same speed, better range.
The current batteries I have are depleted and being completely replaced. An idiot room-mate I " USED " to have put my battery bag into my shed in the winter thinking it was something else and they got damaged (depleted). I wanted to do the same "kind" of setup but (from what I was told) to add more mah to get me more distance than what I used to get.

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by MadRhino » Jul 27 2018 6:57pm

Like many when they became available, I have used big capacity bricks to limit the connections in battery assembly. I have abandoned them after realizing that they have serious downsides. The lower C rate of them is because those large cells are quick to overheat, and long to shed that heat, even with equal manufacturing process and cell quality. 3 or 4 smaller parallel bricks are running much cooler, with higher C rate. Big bricks may be good for those running low power but I personnally, make them heat and puff very quickly. Apart of that, there is the higher risk of compromising your battery if you have a bad cell. I mean, if you receive a defective brick out of eight, you still can assemble a usable battery. If one of the big 20 Amp bricks that you have ordered does arrive with a weak cell, it is a serions handicap to the battery that you can assemble with the rest. That is why I returned to higher C rate cells, that can supply the current I need, and stand faster charging staying cool.
Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool.
Current bikes
Street:
Trek Session 10 mod. Variable geometry. 70mph
Dirt:
Santa Cruz V10. 50mph

FlyByNight   1 mW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by FlyByNight » Jul 27 2018 7:27pm

motomech wrote:
Jul 27 2018 4:01pm
FlyByNight wrote:
Jul 26 2018 9:23pm
Hello everyone. A couple years ago I purchased a used Recumbent Trike (WizWheelz Zoomer - Pre-TerraTrike). This trike came with a BMC V3 motor in the rear 26" wheel. Attached to it is a 12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition and a Cycle Analyst V2.4.

With the trike came 8 Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C Lipo Pack in parallel & Series for a total of 36V and 20,000mah. The current setup is nominal 37 volts, fully charged to 41 volts. I was told that the Motor and controller as setup can increase to 55.5 volts nominal, 61.5 volts fully charged. Since 5S batteries are not so common I wanted to upgrade them to the following --> Multistar High Capacity 20000mAh 6S 10C Multi-Rotor Lipo Pack , but I know nothing about batteries or the setup even after all my research. I can't seem to figure out if this would work with the setup as it is. My plan would be to have 4 of the MultiStar running in Parallel & Series totalling 44.4V and 40,000mah.

My goal here is not to gain super speed (I'm happy with the current 50km/h that the trike can go: I do NOT want more speed; I want MORE distance)

Could anyone offer me any good solid advice on this please and thanks.
Since the Multistar is not available in 5S bricks, 6S bricks seem to be your only option. You could, of course, use another brand, but large capacity bricks are not readily avail., or if they are, they will be pricey. 12S is a very good system Voltage w/ little drawbacks, even if you don't make use of the increased speed available.
Even though you plan to carry plenty of battery capacity, you will want to retain the Low Voltage Cut-off (LVC)in the controller, so a reprogram would be in the cards.
There is an advantage to staying w/ a 2S/2P string. By having only 4) bricks, you can "bulk charge" and ck and balance using only 4) Battery Medics;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/150W-3- ... 17404.html
I have lots of posts on how I charge my 12S/20,000 multistar pack w/ a Mean Well HLG-320-48A and Battery Medics, just search my posts using key words such as, Battery Medic, Multistar, bulk charge, etc.
I have a solar charge system that I play around with, although 95% of the time I use my Mean Well.
I use this cheap "boost" controller, which makes my system very simple(only panels to controller to the pack), but it has a rather limited out-put.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC ... UTF8&psc=1
I only have 2) 100 Watt panels in series for 24 Volts and if I added two more, I could input 48 V into the controller and increase the charging rate significaly.
Note; I connect my bricks in series first and then parallel then using parallel Y-connectors. W/ the Multistar and a low dis-charge rate system, you can use the Turnigy 14 AWG silicone wire and 6mm bullet connectors, which helps keep things neat.
I can't wait to read your posts as your setup seems to be almost identical to what I was going for. I do not have the cable needed for the MOSFET to reprogram it, but I am sure I can pester Lyen into selling me one :D The price is what has drawn me to the MutliStar batteries as I am a low income person due to disabilities. My controller setup is currently using EC5 connections (those were the leads used on the battery/controller/trike when I bought it), but I can always change those if needed. Easier to change the connections on the Non Battery stuff then it is on the batteries themselves.

As for Charging I am using an "iCharger 4010 DUO" so it should be able to handle charging 4-6 6S at the same time. It was able to charge my 8 Turnigy batteries at the same time. If it can't handle 4-5 5S batteries then maybe it is time to upgrade to the Turnigy Reaktor QuadKore 1200W 80A (4 X 300W 20A) Balance Charger. However they are heavy chargers and that is why I was hoping to replace it with Solar, but I doubt that will happen. Although being able to use Solar to power/charge my setup for my schematic above might be good enough for me. :D That would at least mean I wouldn't need the extra weight of a second charger.

Is a 10C (20C peak) discharge rate ok for my setup? I do not understand the C ratings all that well. The setup I used to have was 20C (30C peak). I was told (read) that the lower the C rating the longer the batteries will last; is this correct?

Currently my setup is using only EC5 connectors. I "could" rewire the MultiStar batteries to also have EC5, but I think it would be easier (safer) to rewire the MOSFET to match the batteries instead of the batteries to match the controller. I was also warned not to use Converters (Ex. XT90 to EC5) like you can buy from HobbyKing (where I planned to get my batteries from) due to them basically frying out while in use.

I'm pretty sure my battery setup is the same (maybe I said it wrong) I have 2 sets of 4 batteries each. 4 connected together to get my 20,000mAh and then those 2 connected together to get my 37V

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by FlyByNight » Jul 27 2018 7:42pm

MadRhino wrote:
Jul 27 2018 6:57pm
Like many when they became available, I have used big capacity bricks to limit the connections in battery assembly. I have abandoned them after realizing that they have serious downsides. The lower C rate of them is because those large cells are quick to overheat, and long to shed that heat, even with equal manufacturing process and cell quality. 3 or 4 smaller parallel bricks are running much cooler, with higher C rate. Big bricks may be good for those running low power but I personnally, make them heat and puff very quickly. Apart of that, there is the higher risk of compromising your battery if you have a bad cell. I mean, if you receive a defective brick out of eight, you still can assemble a usable battery. If one of the big 20 Amp bricks that you have ordered does arrive with a weak cell, it is a serions handicap to the battery that you can assemble with the rest. That is why I returned to higher C rate cells, that can supply the current I need, and stand faster charging staying cool.
FlyByNight wrote: Is a 10C (20C peak) discharge rate ok for my setup? I do not understand the C ratings all that well. The setup I used to have was 20C (30C peak). I was told (read) that the lower the C rating the longer the batteries will last; is this correct?
This is where I get confused.... I definitely need higher mAh so I can get more distance (I'm more than happy to even go above 40,000mAh too) :wink: , but weight is also an issue for me. I need to keep the weight as low as possible.

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by amberwolf » Jul 27 2018 8:00pm

If you double the capacity of the battery, you double it's weight, assuming the same cells/etc are used as with the smaller battery.

Some batteries weigh a little more or a little less than others of the same capacity, but not generally enough to make any practical difference.

Exceptions are LiFePO4 and LiTitanate, and the old NiMH/NiCd, which are all heavier for the same capacity than the LiCo, LiPo, LiMN, NMC, etc types. Each has its' own advantages and disadvantages, but if weight is more important, then the latter types are lighter than the former.

If cost is not a factor then there's better cells in larger capacities, like used large-EV cells (Nissan Leaf, Zero, etc).


Regarding building out of RC packs with smaller cells vs bigger ones, MadRhino summed it up pretty well.

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by MadRhino » Jul 27 2018 8:43pm

The higher the C rate, the lower the internal resistance of the battery, the cooler it will perform and the more power it will supply before suffering damage. This means higher C rate, low resistance cells are making a better battery, because heat is the worst ennemy of batteries.

Also, you have to understand that resistance does add in a series, and divide in parallel.

2x1 ohm in a series are making 2 ohm
2x1 ohm in parallel are making 0.5 ohm
That is how to calculate the internal resistance of a battery assembly, from individual cell spec.
Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool.
Current bikes
Street:
Trek Session 10 mod. Variable geometry. 70mph
Dirt:
Santa Cruz V10. 50mph

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by Wolfeman » Jul 28 2018 10:45am

Multistar LiPos can be incredible batteries if managed correctly. I found this video on YouTube that helped me tremendously.

https://youtu.be/4i_4_DcZTWE

Since watching this video, I've purchased multiple items from Barent at WCEC, and wired up a 20S LiPo harness. I ride my ebike every day, monitor my Multistars carefully and haven't had a single problem with them. LOTS of power for way less money that other types of packs.
Trek 4300 w/ H3580 Crystalyte at 3600W
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=82738
Worksman Mover M2020-3CB w/DD 750W front hub
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Dyno Moto 7 BMX Cruiser w/BBS02
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MadRhino   100 GW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by MadRhino » Jul 28 2018 12:22pm

Wolfeman wrote:
Jul 28 2018 10:45am
...LOTS of power for way less money that other types of packs.
Yep, but ‘LOTS of power’ doesn’t have the same meaning for different riders. Some think 3kw is LOTS, some other think 20kw is just perfect setting for the 2nd speed. :wink:
Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool.
Current bikes
Street:
Trek Session 10 mod. Variable geometry. 70mph
Dirt:
Santa Cruz V10. 50mph

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by motomech » Jul 28 2018 12:54pm

Wolfeman wrote:
Jul 28 2018 10:45am
Multistar LiPos can be incredible batteries if managed correctly. I found this video on YouTube that helped me tremendously.

https://youtu.be/4i_4_DcZTWE

Since watching this video, I've purchased multiple items from Barent at WCEC, and wired up a 20S LiPo harness. I ride my ebike every day, monitor my Multistars carefully and haven't had a single problem with them. LOTS of power for way less money that other types of packs.
LiPoly in general packs a lot of power in it's form factor, but the Multistars are the weakest of all. That's to be expected as they were designed to trade off a lower dis-charge rate for a smaller size and lighter weight. They are also less volatile.
That video is Old Skool. Many ebike riders using LiPoly are getting away from "toy" balance chargers and Bulk Charging w/ something like a Mean Well HLG series power supply, a point that I guess I didn't make clear to FlyByNight.
By bulk charging, the pack doesn't have to be removed from the bike, and more importantly, the string of bricks do not need to be "broken", eliminating the wear and tear on connectors, the chance for an accident and the need to molest the LiPoly itself.
Since the Multistar is so small, and inexpensive (when on sale), it ios easy to build in extra capacity and adhere to the 80% D of D(depth of dis-charge)rule(not over 4.10V and not below 3.75V)and when this is done, cell balancing becomes a thing of the past. That is not to say that they no longer need to be checked, I always ck. w/ a Battery Medic, one or two bricks at the end of the storage phase(3.90V)and again at the end of the top charge phase.
I can't even remember the last time I had to balance any cells w/ my Multistar main pack.
Motomech


'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100H 201 frt. mounted, 14S Multistar LiPoly, elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A, Crazy Bobs on Alex DM32's 21 to 22 MPH. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28151&p=1373714&hilit=Idrive#p13737

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by FlyByNight » Jul 28 2018 5:42pm

amberwolf wrote:
Jul 27 2018 8:00pm
If cost is not a factor then there's better cells in larger capacities, like used large-EV cells (Nissan Leaf, Zero, etc).
Cost is a HUGE issue for me. I am disabled and low income. :oops: I need to keep it as inexpensive as possible, but still be able to pack in as much mAh, for distance, as I possibly can. I don't "have" to use MultiStar, per say. Just as long as whatever setup can carry the maximum mAh possible and keep the weight down as much as possible at the same time.
MadRhino wrote:
Jul 27 2018 8:43pm
The higher the C rate, the lower the internal resistance of the battery, the cooler it will perform and the more power it will supply before suffering damage. This means higher C rate, low resistance cells are making a better battery, because heat is the worst enemy of batteries.
So then it would be best to stick with the 20C (30C Peak) instead of going down to 10C (20C Peak) ? I didn't know the lower you go the worse it actually becomes for the battery. I was just under the impression that the lower the C rating the longer the battery lasts on a charge since it discharges slower.
Wolfeman wrote:
Jul 28 2018 10:45am
Multistar LiPos can be incredible batteries if managed correctly. I found this video on YouTube that helped me tremendously.

https://youtu.be/4i_4_DcZTWE

Since watching this video, I've purchased multiple items from Barent at WCEC, and wired up a 20S LiPo harness. I ride my ebike every day, monitor my Multistars carefully and haven't had a single problem with them. LOTS of power for way less money that other types of packs.
This video precisely describes exactly how I was charging my 8 Turnigy batteries before they became depleted and garbage. Also how I had planned to do my charging in the future. Unless there is something better, that is.
MadRhino wrote:
Jul 28 2018 12:22pm
Wolfeman wrote:
Jul 28 2018 10:45am
...LOTS of power for way less money that other types of packs.
Yep, but ‘LOTS of power’ doesn’t have the same meaning for different riders. Some think 3kw is LOTS, some other think 20kw is just perfect setting for the 2nd speed. :wink:
To me..... "LOTS of Power" means the maximum mAh I can pack in so I can have "Greater Distance". :D
motomech wrote:
Jul 28 2018 12:54pm
LiPoly in general packs a lot of power in it's form factor, but the Multistars are the weakest of all. That's to be expected as they were designed to trade off a lower dis-charge rate for a smaller size and lighter weight. They are also less volatile.
That video is Old Skool. Many ebike riders using LiPoly are getting away from "toy" balance chargers and Bulk Charging w/ something like a Mean Well HLG series power supply, a point that I guess I didn't make clear to FlyByNight.
By bulk charging, the pack doesn't have to be removed from the bike, and more importantly, the string of bricks do not need to be "broken", eliminating the wear and tear on connectors, the chance for an accident and the need to molest the LiPoly itself.
Since the Multistar is so small, and inexpensive (when on sale), it ios easy to build in extra capacity and adhere to the 80% D of D(depth of dis-charge)rule(not over 4.10V and not below 3.75V)and when this is done, cell balancing becomes a thing of the past. That is not to say that they no longer need to be checked, I always ck. w/ a Battery Medic, one or two bricks at the end of the storage phase(3.90V)and again at the end of the top charge phase.
I can't even remember the last time I had to balance any cells w/ my Multistar main pack.
1. What brand/kind of lipoly would you recommend that packs as much mAh as possible?
2. Unfortunately MeanWell Style charging is expensive and extremely Heavy to be taking across the country. I had planned on using my current charger which is an "iCharger 4010 DUO" which had no issues charging all 8 of my old Turnigy batteries at the same time.
3. No matter what kind of charging I do, when at home, the packs will have to be removed from my bike so that is not really an issue for me. My Trike is too large for me to bring inside and I do not have a garage and am not comfortable charging outside in direct, any kind of, weather.
4. All balancing is done when I charge, thanks to my iCharger :D I won't deny the usefulness of having/using a Battery Medic which I do plan to have, at least, for my across Canada tour.

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by ScooterMan101 » Jul 28 2018 6:05pm

Small and Lightweight Power Supply , ( the meanwell is not really that big or heavy, but it is only 240 watts of charging )

https://www.itcreations.com/view_produc ... gJqcvD_BwE

You will have to solder a Positive and Negative wire/plug to it, and from other examples I see on the internet you solder the left 4 bars to the left side of the board together as well.

See an example of how another company did this already for you, ( they did it with 4mm female bullet connectors )

http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/HP-1 ... P12750.htm

However they look to be out of stock at this time, so you can buy from itcreations.com and solder wires/plug of your choose .
Last edited by ScooterMan101 on Jul 28 2018 6:34pm, edited 1 time in total.
My first conversion ... Sold

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ScooterMan101   10 MW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by ScooterMan101 » Jul 28 2018 6:29pm

Yes it will be much better to get Lipo's at least 25 discharge rating , or even higher if your income will allow it .

Just keep looking on Hobby King for the higher c discharge rated batteries to come up on sale, like every day if you are on a low budget since once they come up they get sold out fast.

For a good rule , only discharge max of 25-30 % of the C rating that Hobby King says the batteries will do.

and most people charge at a1 c rate , however if you get the better/higher c rating batteries , I am having good luck charging at more like 1.2-1.5 of the rating. ( on my 5c charge rate Lipo's I am charging most often at around 1.2 or 1.4 of that 5c )
My first conversion ... Sold

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It's 2018 already, ( now 2019 ) lets get some real , improved e-bike / e-velomobile / e-motorcycle designs .

ScooterMan101   10 MW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by ScooterMan101 » Jul 28 2018 6:47pm

These work really good.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm ... 2s-8s.html

And I find the Cycle Analyst very helpful to see what my Max amp draw was for each ride , and what the battery pack went down max to in Volts for each ride. these figures are very good in telling you how you/ your motor is treating your batteries. ( these figures are not available on cheaper / China made displays )

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicy ... lysts.html
My first conversion ... Sold

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It's 2018 already, ( now 2019 ) lets get some real , improved e-bike / e-velomobile / e-motorcycle designs .

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motomech   1 GW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by motomech » Jul 28 2018 9:52pm

Over the years here, there have been many reports of balance chargers failing when used as opportunity chargers. Appearently, they aren't designed to hold up to the rigors of the road.
The Mean Well HLG series is potted to prevent it's insides from giggling apart and while admittingly, they are a serious chunk, their sm. form factor and their weatherproofing, allow them to be mounted down low.
As to LiPoly recommendations for something a little stiffer than the Multistar, I would say Turnigy. I have had good luck with both their 20C and 25C stuff. No big bricks though. To do that, I think one would have to break out the checkbook and go with Nano-something.
Motomech


'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100H 201 frt. mounted, 14S Multistar LiPoly, elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A, Crazy Bobs on Alex DM32's 21 to 22 MPH. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28151&p=1373714&hilit=Idrive#p13737

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MadRhino   100 GW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by MadRhino » Jul 29 2018 12:24am

If range is more important than power and speed, then you can limit the load and use cheap batteries. Charge them slowly, bulk charge with a low power psu, never reach the low or high safe voltage limits, avoid letting them heat or freeze, and they will last. You could also build your own battery out of recycled cells, if budget is important. Many here had done it with success. Every rider has his own priorities. What is important, is to know the limits of what you build, and ride accordingly.
Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool.
Current bikes
Street:
Trek Session 10 mod. Variable geometry. 70mph
Dirt:
Santa Cruz V10. 50mph

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amberwolf   100 GW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by amberwolf » Jul 29 2018 1:00am

FlyByNight wrote:
Jul 28 2018 5:42pm
Cost is a HUGE issue for me. I am disabled and low income. :oops:
I totally understand...most of what i use is recycled from someone else's junkpile. ;)
I was just under the impression that the lower the C rating the longer the battery lasts on a charge since it discharges slower.
Not exactly. The lower the A rating of the controller, the longer the battery lasts, because it pulls less power from the battery at higher throttle usage.

If the battery has a lower C-rate, it just means that if it has to supply a higher A controller it's harder on the battery than if the battery had a higher C-rate, heating the battery more, and causing more voltage sag.

motomech wrote:
Jul 28 2018 9:52pm
The Mean Well HLG series is potted to prevent it's insides from giggling apart and while admittingly, they are a serious chunk, their sm. form factor and their weatherproofing, allow them to be mounted down low.
The HLG-600H-54A for my SB Cruiser trike is bolted to the bottom of the seatbox cargo area. Plenty of bumps and vibrations, water splashes, etc. No problems yet. Think it's been on there more than a year now...long enough I don't remember. :)

But no, they're not cheap (I got my used from a kind member here), and they are heavy cuz they're potted (the same thing that makes them weatherproof).

ScooterMan101   10 MW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by ScooterMan101 » Jul 29 2018 9:19am

I would like to have known about a potted Mean Well Power Supply before I bought the HP Server. ( However the HP Server P.S. was only $ 22 to my door so it will always be good to have around / for keeping at home , I am still glad I bought it )

I just had a quick look at the HLG Series,
They are expensive , However ...
RC Flyiers I have talked to have used Power Supply's as a quick / on field charger .
( no balance charge doing this )

It is done like this, Buy the right HLG P.S. for your battery pack.
Par Example : For 6 cell packs buy the 24 volt P.S. pick the wattage you want to charge at by buying that exact M.W. Power Supply ... then just plug it into the AC outlet of your choice during your trip , and plug the other two wires that you soldered the corresponding connector to your lipo packs +/- , and you are now charging your packs.
I would only do this with a lipo checker that I linked to above , and set the alarm on your cell phone so that you can then charge each pack the same amount of time.

Which one to get ? Type A , B , C , or D ??

https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplie ... gJxNfD_BwE



motomech wrote:
Jul 28 2018 9:52pm

The Mean Well HLG series is potted to prevent it's insides from giggling apart and while admittingly, they are a serious chunk, their sm. form factor and their weatherproofing, allow them to be mounted down low.
My first conversion ... Sold

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71378&p=1077497&hil ... 1#p1077497

It's 2018 already, ( now 2019 ) lets get some real , improved e-bike / e-velomobile / e-motorcycle designs .

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motomech   1 GW

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Re: Lipo Battery Help + Solar Charging

Post by motomech » Jul 29 2018 10:38am

You want;
Option A: Adjustable Output via Potentiometer

Voltage:
Suffix 48A-Adjustable range: 41.8V to 53.5V
Suffix 54A-Adjustable range: 47.8V to 59.5V

48A-12S and below
54A-12S and above

NOTE: Minimum Voltage of 54A(47.8V) is a little high for storage Voltage for 12S(4.00V/cell), so one has to manually dis-connect at 3.90V-3.95V. By the time the pack reaches this value, Current has dropped to around 3 Amps(CC/CV function) and one has a window to dis-connect.
Motomech


'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100H 201 frt. mounted, 14S Multistar LiPoly, elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A, Crazy Bobs on Alex DM32's 21 to 22 MPH. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28151&p=1373714&hilit=Idrive#p13737

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