Build Advice

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
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tajanator   1 mW

1 mW
Posts: 12
Joined: Aug 08 2018 1:01am

Build Advice

Post by tajanator » Aug 17 2018 5:07am

Hey guys,
I've been torturing myself the past few weeks as to what I should do for my electric bike project. I'm probably going to build one, because of the cheaper costs, however if you guys want to convince me otherwise I'm happy to listen, I did have my eye on the Dillenger Vermillion but the price put me off a bit.

I saw a bike for sale on eBay (see link below), and I wanted to either replicate it with a similar battery box built off a hardtail, or just buy a dolphin case and mount it on a dual suspension mountain bike.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172885771995?

So my questions are:
1. Does anyone sell battery boxes like the eBay link provided above?
2. If I went with the full suspension option, how would I know if the dolphin case could fit in the frame?

Thanks in advance.

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dirt huffer   100 mW

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Joined: May 11 2018 3:02pm

Re: Build Advice

Post by dirt huffer » Aug 17 2018 8:58am

1.) a local sheet metal shop should be able to take on the task if you provide them a sketch with some dimensions or just get a frame bag.
2.) use a photo measuring app like ImageMeter or ask the seller to measure for you, ext...

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 6191
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: Build Advice

Post by markz » Aug 17 2018 11:59am

If your budget is $3500usd then you can have a rocking rig.
You do not list your requirements as far as the terrain you will be riding, or if its a commuter ebike for stop and go downtown riding, any hills, cargo.

Besides that - If I were you this is what I'd do.........

Buy the MXUS XF40-45H which is 3000W direct drive (means SILENCE!) buy it straight from the manufacturer - https://mxus.en.alibaba.com/
Get the 3T or 4T and lace it into a 17" or 19" motorcycle rim which correlates in bicycle terms to 19" = 24" and 17" = 21" which slows you down a bit, that is why going with a faster wind motor, but it gives you more torque.

Buy the Adaptto controller - http://adaptto.com/Products/ with the added options. Sinewave controller means even more silence!

Buy battery and charger from EM3EV - https://em3ev.com/shop

Put all that on a used brand name bicycle - https://pinkbike.com/buysell
Stay away from the generic bicycles that are sold online, along with staying away from department store bicycles. Only buy brand name bicycles like Giant, Rocky Mountain, Specialized, Kona and the like. This is where you can save a bit of money by buying used instead of new, because you dont want to skimp on this part of the build. This is your main rig, so why buy generic shiiiiiiit when you got the money ($3200usd from your link) to spend on quality components!

Torque Arms - Throttle - Cycle Analyst - https://ebikes.ca

tajanator   1 mW

1 mW
Posts: 12
Joined: Aug 08 2018 1:01am

Re: Build Advice

Post by tajanator » Aug 17 2018 7:15pm

markz wrote:
Aug 17 2018 11:59am
If your budget is $3500usd then you can have a rocking rig.
You do not list your requirements as far as the terrain you will be riding, or if its a commuter ebike for stop and go downtown riding, any hills, cargo.

Besides that - If I were you this is what I'd do.........

Buy the MXUS XF40-45H which is 3000W direct drive (means SILENCE!) buy it straight from the manufacturer - https://mxus.en.alibaba.com/
Get the 3T or 4T and lace it into a 17" or 19" motorcycle rim which correlates in bicycle terms to 19" = 24" and 17" = 21" which slows you down a bit, that is why going with a faster wind motor, but it gives you more torque.

Buy the Adaptto controller - http://adaptto.com/Products/ with the added options. Sinewave controller means even more silence!

Buy battery and charger from EM3EV - https://em3ev.com/shop

Put all that on a used brand name bicycle - https://pinkbike.com/buysell
Stay away from the generic bicycles that are sold online, along with staying away from department store bicycles. Only buy brand name bicycles like Giant, Rocky Mountain, Specialized, Kona and the like. This is where you can save a bit of money by buying used instead of new, because you dont want to skimp on this part of the build. This is your main rig, so why buy generic shiiiiiiit when you got the money ($3200usd from your link) to spend on quality components!

Torque Arms - Throttle - Cycle Analyst - https://ebikes.ca
Right, thanks. do you know where I would buy a box for it though? I don't really trust the batteries won't just be stolen out of the bag when I'm not looking.

Thanks, Taj

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wturber   100 kW

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Re: Build Advice

Post by wturber » Aug 17 2018 7:30pm

tajanator wrote:
Aug 17 2018 7:15pm

Right, thanks. do you know where I would buy a box for it though? I don't really trust the batteries won't just be stolen out of the bag when I'm not looking.

Thanks, Taj
Sure. A locked box of some kind has benefits. Easily detachable batteries probably work better depending on how large a battery you need. Just take the battery with you. OTOH, theft of the entire bike is a pretty big issue. You don't want to leave it unattended and visible for long periods of time. For instance, you don't generally want to lock it up outside while you work.
"Commuter - DC Booster"
Iron Horse 3.0 hardtail - 48V / 1000W / 470rpm generic Chinese DD Hub motor (ebay)
8 x 36v 4.3ah 10s 2P battery packs - 1500W 30A DC Boost Converter delivers 54v and about 1000 watts peak
53T/42T Sakae Road cranks - 30mph+ on flats
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=90369

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