Sinewave Controller?

Talon

10 W
Joined
Jun 4, 2017
Messages
77
Location
SE Michigan
I have done a bunch of searching here at ES for a good quality Sinewave programmable controller. I currently have a PV 6 FET controller on my bike. I am looking for a 12 FET Sinewave programmable controller that offers tech support if needed. Is there any good ones for $200 or less USA dollars except PV, ERT, Lyen, Grin Phaserunner, or Luna? I will be using a 48 volt battery. I don't trust Aliexpress as the risk for a counterfeit and getting trash with no customer support is not on my list. Any suggestions would be appreciated :D
 
Talon said:
I am looking for a 12 FET Sinewave programmable controller that offers tech support if needed.
Are you looking specifically for somethign with 12FETs, or are you looking for one that has specific current / power handling capability?

Because there are 12FETs that cant' deal with much more than 20-25A, and there are some that handle much more than that. There are also controllers with less FETs that can handle more than the lower-end ones with more FETs. Etc.

Stating what specifically you need the controller to be capable of would be more useful, to help us help you find the right one.

Similarly, "programmable" can mean a lot of things, so you might want to say what specifically you need to be able to adjust in it.
 
amberwolf said:
Talon said:
I am looking for a 12 FET Sinewave programmable controller that offers tech support if needed.
Are you looking specifically for somethign with 12FETs, or are you looking for one that has specific current / power handling capability?

Because there are 12FETs that cant' deal with much more than 20-25A, and there are some that handle much more than that. There are also controllers with less FETs that can handle more than the lower-end ones with more FETs. Etc.

Stating what specifically you need the controller to be capable of would be more useful, to help us help you find the right one.

Similarly, "programmable" can mean a lot of things, so you might want to say what specifically you need to be able to adjust in it.

I've got a very Chinese and very generic 12fet controller. I've modded it for permanent regen and cut all unnecessary wires like a cycle analyst wires...let's just say I'm going through this minimalist phase... And I've also modded the shunt and nothing else. I can easily pull 47A through the thing. That's about 2200W.. I have yet to encounter an issue...the thing barely gets warm
 
Bldc controllers are not counterfeit. Most of them are made in China, just about all of them that are under 200$. In fact, most are much cheaper than 200$. Some of them are mod and supported by sellers in the western world, more expansive of course. Some (few) are even more expansive because they are designed and made in the western world.

You want them cheap, you don’t want the most common models that we are using, but you want the functions and support. I’d say you are dreaming.
 
amberwolf said:
Talon said:
I am looking for a 12 FET Sinewave programmable controller that offers tech support if needed.
Are you looking specifically for somethign with 12FETs, or are you looking for one that has specific current / power handling capability?

Because there are 12FETs that cant' deal with much more than 20-25A, and there are some that handle much more than that. There are also controllers with less FETs that can handle more than the lower-end ones with more FETs. Etc.

Stating what specifically you need the controller to be capable of would be more useful, to help us help you find the right one.

Similarly, "programmable" can mean a lot of things, so you might want to say what specifically you need to be able to adjust in it.

Thanks for your response. Like I mentioned before, I have a PowerVeloCity 6FET controller that I have set at 30amps and 50 phase amps now. I need to pull around 40 amps for more torque. I have an URB-E that will just touch 25mph with a 48 volt battery. I would like to get closer to 30mph with 260 pound total weight with driver and bike. The URB-E only has 10 inch wheels.
 
Go to a smaller wheel if you got a direct drive motor. It will slow you down but give you more torque.
I'd suggest Kelly Controller, but others like Sabatov (programming is hard), Adappto (very expensive, but awesome!), Power Velocity, GrinTech, Luna, BAC (very steep learning curve), Greentime (no sinewave) can't think of anymore without searching.

For cheap, I do not mind the noise of the generic trapezoidal waveform controllers, you can get normal regen instead of always on, you can change the LVC by replacing the resistor, and the big BONUS: Dirt Cheap!

How much is riding silently worth to you?
 
markz said:
Go to a smaller wheel if you got a direct drive motor. It will slow you down but give you more torque.
I'd suggest Kelly Controller, but others like Sabatov (programming is hard), Adappto (very expensive, but awesome!), Power Velocity, GrinTech, Luna, BAC (very steep learning curve), Greentime (no sinewave) can't think of anymore without searching.

For cheap, I do not mind the noise of the generic trapezoidal waveform controllers, you can get normal regen instead of always on, you can change the LVC by replacing the resistor, and the big BONUS: Dirt Cheap!

How much is riding silently worth to you?

Air filled 10" wheels are as small as I go for my safety at 25+ MPH. Silence is golden and a must have option. The URB-E has no suspension at all. I have dumped it several times when I used to drink. Bluetooth programming is awesome and both are on my PV 6 FET controller. I am considering going with a 60 volt battery and riding with it in a backpack as they are all too big to mount on the tiny URB-E aluminum frame.
 
Talon said:
Thanks for your response. Like I mentioned before, I have a PowerVeloCity 6FET controller that I have set at 30amps and 50 phase amps now. I need to pull around 40 amps for more torque. I have an URB-E that will just touch 25mph with a 48 volt battery. I would like to get closer to 30mph with 260 pound total weight with driver and bike. The URB-E only has 10 inch wheels.

Are you saying you're already pulling 30 amps at 25 mph? That would be unusual or very inefficient (takes maybe 600 watts to travel 30 mph). I think current will give you more torque, but not higher speed. Bigger wheel or higher voltage are your main options for speed. The motor pulls what it wants to pull, you can't force feed it.
 
I would go with 12fet powervelocity bt .Give the scooter back to the get you it from. And 20in. wheel for safety or bigger. Those small wheels can be scary at speed. plus I'm 6'4"
 
Talon said:
Like I mentioned before, I have a PowerVeloCity 6FET controller that I have set at 30amps and 50 phase amps now.
I need to pull around 40 amps for more torque.
Your previous post doesn't mention the power levels (just the controller model), however: having a controller that can supply more amps doesn't mean you get more torque. That depends on the system and conditions.

If you're looking for faster acceleration from a stop, a higher current controller *could* help, as long as you are already pullling the max current from the existing controller for the time you need the faster acceleration to occur.

If you're not maxing out the existing controller during those seconds, then it's not going to help to have a better controller. You'd need either a different motor that's built for more torque (wider magnets and stator, or a different winding taht provides more torque and less speed), or a higher voltage battery to go with the higher current controller, to force the motor to pull more current.

If you're looking for more torque for hill climbing, keep in mind that just pushing more current thru the same motor will heat it up faster, and to a higher temperature. If it's not getting hot now that's probably not an issue, but if it's already getting hot you may have to implement cooling mods on it (there are quite a few threads about that sort of thing if you need help with that). If it's a long hill that you haven't been able to climb before, then it's likely to be able to overheat the motor doing it.

If you're just looking for more speed, then more torque is not usually the only thing you'd need (and may not need it at all).

I have an URB-E that will just touch 25mph with a 48 volt battery. I would like to get closer to 30mph with 260 pound total weight with driver and bike. The URB-E only has 10 inch wheels.

When you are at the max speed, are you also at max current?

If not, higher current controller will not help. You would need one or more of these:
--a motor wound for more speed (and less torque),
--a larger diameter wheel/tire of a ratio to your original equal to the ratio of the speeds,
--a higher voltage battery, at least of a ratio to your original equal to the ratio of the speeds.

Also note that your power usage will go up significantly for that small difference in speed, so your range will drop at least proportionally (probably even worse, because you'll be pushing the cells harder, so they will deliver less total capacity).

If you need the same range at the higher speed, you'll either have to recharge along the way/etc., or get a second battery pack to parallel with the first, or replace the first with a bigger one,
 
Thanks for all your feedback, I do appreciate it. I modified my URB-E 1 1/2 years ago with these upgrades and the bike has run totally flawless within the same period of time. I do not have a CA on my bike so I have no idea how many volts and amps are being used at anytime. Everything has been totally butt time and touching the controller, and rear 10" wheel 800 watt DD hubmotor. Nothing has ever felt anything more than warm to the touch. I know from experience that I am not pushing the motor, battery, the PV controller and wiring too hard. I drive the URB-E 6-7 days a week for 5 miles or less. Today I realized that my phase amps is supposed to be about 2 1/2 times higher than the current amp setting. I raised the Phase amps via Bluetooth today to 75 up from 50 and the URB-E wants to throw me on the ground at every startup. The wheel base is only 30 inches long. The top end speed feels to slightly improved even in 32 degree Fahrenheit weather here in Michigan :D I just purchased a Turnigy watt analyzer. I will be installing it when I get all my wires and connectors. It will be interesting to see what kinda volts and watts that I am pulling 8)
 
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