Prodeco Outlaw SS - Battery finally died

hexland

1 µW
Joined
Jan 25, 2019
Messages
3
I have owned my Outlaw SS 3.5 since 2014 -- It only gets used a couple of times a week for about 15 miles each trip (mostly road travel, but a few bike/horse trails -- nothing seriously off road - this is a sooped-up commuter bike for me).

It got put into storage over the winter, since I changed jobs further away and I dug it out this week and found that the battery has finally died - it indicates that it's charging, the indicator on the top shows a full charge - but I get about 2 seconds of acceleration from the bike before it goes dead.

I contacted Prodeco to find out how much for a replacement, and they have deprecated that model of battery and are working on a new drop-in replacement but can't give me an ETA.

So.. I'm left with
1. Have the battery rebuilt with new cells
2. Convert the bike to a new battery (preferably a new form factor - the back rack takes a real beating with vibration, and I've had problems in the past with the battery case cracking and flying off the back when I hit a bad bump

I've never had to do much more than standard bike maintenance, so battery tech and stuff is completely new to me - I'm still reading/learning.

What other options do I have? What kind of difficulty are some of these DIY solutions?

Thanks!
 
Get one of these or similar and mount it on the down tube water bottle braze-ons. Just match up the connectors if they don't already. It will balance out the bikes handling better also.

https://em3ev.com/shop/52v-14s4p-shark/

Probably need a compatible charger also unless you know the plug from your current one will work.
 
Like Bigwheel says, another option is to purchase a battery pack and splice into your existing power lines.

:D :bolt:
 
Thanks guys.
I took a couple of quick measurements, and it will be a tight fit for the em3ev shark product... plus the crossbar with the water bottle bolts has a curve to it - so the battery pack probably wouldn't sit properly.

outlawss_2048x2048.jpg


However, it shouldn't be too hard to just drill and tap a couple of mounting bolts on to the existing rear rack and mount it there...
Thanks for the suggestions.
 
So, a final update. I took your collective advices and just picked up a new 3rd party battery (52v 14Ah).
I modified the rear battery rack and mounted the new module (which was supposed to be a down-tube water bottle mount) on to the existing battery tray. I decided to keep the existing tray just because I really couldn't be bothered re-routing the wiring, and also because the tray also holds/conceals the hub motor controller unit, and I didn't want to relocate it.
Anyway - it's pretty damned solid, and the bike is back up and operational. (I just need to 3D print a nice cap for the hole left in the battery compartment from where I removed the old ignition key/locking mechanism)

Thank you so much for your help folks!

8j10Aii_tvyPfV5bG0a8bI6HqM5ooJdtdKPvwDgOzNr0PBXprcFaru1bbqdRLDeLMDeMbwngtMesxaCLwxEKAVm1O0s_EoeFCWoJB46_Kgs9L-qwDjgJLqgDizgQJpvgnk9vvLMusBY=w2400
 
Nice. You could possibly put the old key in the hole just to cover it up. It might also make people think it is locked somehow.
 
Hey buddy i have the same bike and the same story...lol..So i ordered the same battery and i just wanted to know how the bike rides and how many miles you get out of the battery...i was also reading that you can only charge the battery to 80 to 85% because of the controller, i hope thats not the case...any i hope the bike is running well...thanks
 
I would open up the old pack and see whats salvageable. Get a $5 digital multi meter from the usual scumbags (Harbor Freight, Princess Auto) and check things out. Take off the BMS pcb board and write down the voltages. See whats going on in that old pack.
 
I got my Prodeco Oasis in 2014 and added a second Prodeco battery in the triangle using the stock rack/battery mount and 2nd LiFeP04 51.2/12 Ah pack. I always run them in Parallel. I'm still getting just under 8 Amp Hours out of each pack which is about 80% of new capacity. I, too emailed Luis in Feb this year and was told they are working on a drop-in replacement. Chemistry was unknown at that time. I just emailed him again to see what's up. I'd like to find a dead, useless pack so I could open it up to see what rebuild possibilities are. I'd love to stay with LiFeP04.
 
The rear rack is got to be the worst place to put a heavy battery. The balance of the bike is really thrown off. How do I know? Talk to me one day about the broken rib I suffered when the weight of the three SLA's I was running on a rear rack contributed to me loosing control of my e-bike and how it whipped me downward and across a concrete curb causing me to break a rib. :cry: :oops: :evil:

As for triangle measurements, tape cardboard into your triangle until you get a perfect form and then measure the cardboard for a perfect measurement.

If you decide to get a battery that is intended for your rear rack, get panniers so the weight of the battery can be as low as possible.

My opinion is that the best thing is a battery in the triangle, even if you have to custom make it.

:D :bolt:
 
On the chance that Hexland might see this, I'd be interested in buying your shot battery to experiment with. I'd like to see if I can match the LiFeP04 pouch cells and possibly rebuild my packs.
 
Would anyone happen to know what the 6th sense wire (white ) goes to in a 48v hub? The harness got trashed and I can’t find what the white one goes to
 
It's likely a speed sensor or a temperature sensor. If you have a geared motor, a display with a speedometer, and you don't see an external speed sensor on either wheel, then it's probably a speed sensor.

Controllers can measure wheel RPM when the motor is spinning, but unlike direct drive motors, most all geared motors don't spin when coasting, making a separate sensor necessary if they are going to show the speed.
 
I had two of my Prodeco phantom x2 battery’s recently go on me, didn’t even know what to do cause Prodeco doesn’t tell you much and everything else was crazy expensive. Poor bike is just sitting lol. But got a few ideas from y’all. Any more help is appreciated 🤙🏼
 
I've been researching my options for a battery replacement on the same exact Prodeco Outlaw SS. Hexland, would it be possible for you to share an update on how your third party battery replacement is working after some riding and charging? I'm also curious how the battery replacement went in practice - it looks like you just spliced in the new battery, using the original motor controller, trigger throttle, battery level indicator, and motor.

Any help would be appreciated as it looks like I need to replace my battery to get my ebike back on the road? Thanks in advance.
 
I did same thing on my Stride 500. Had to modify existing battery mount ( cut off power terminal), drill two holes behind controller and mount new battery plate assembly. I wired up new battery as old one, just had to mess with negitive and positive wires. To charge the battery, the switch must be pushed to (ON). With battery switch off, and you plug in charger, it feeds power down positive wire and energizes the controller and wiring, the lights come on. Didn't want that, so wired up a handlebar switch, so it cuts power from battery (opens red wire), and only the battery gets power using the charger. So basically, can leave power switch on battery on and just cut power using handlebar switch. My old battery didn't have power switch on it, so even removing battery from bike, one can meter the (-) and (+) and read voltage. Power was always present on battery wiring and the built in lock and power on switch was incased in battery tray assembly. So I don't have a keylock now to turn off bike, just handle bar switch. If I'm concerned will take off battery and carry with me. Just way it is now. Oh, there is a USB port on battery, so you could insert a small usb led light into it for night time safety. Lights on market, small lights, size of big thumbnail.
 
So Prodecho
Does not use any data communication display-battery electronics.
Whatever battery % is just based on voltage. - very approximate, primitive.
Any wires going to battery other than +/- and third
no any comm wires?
 
the ones i've worked with are older, but just use lishui controllers and bafang geared hubs, no didsplays, just 3-led voltmeter on throttle body. basic bms'd lifepo4 batteries on a less-than-sturdy rear rack.
 
Back
Top