sabvoton SVMC72200 blew on 1st run

hey guys just wondering if any1 has had the same problem i had with the sabvoton SVMC72200 (M) controller.
so i wired everything up did some testing on the stand and all was good. tuned it to about 25% power took it for a run it was all good. took it back and tuned it to factory setting which means max power, took it out, gave it abit and the front came up n thought ohhh thats nice then while rolling hit it once more and heard a boom!!!. at 1st after it blew the motor wasnt smooth while i was pushing it back home, it was rough so i thought dam the motor is gone. after i got home with further inspection i disconnected the yellow phase wire going to the controller and the motor was spinning freely. i has happend to me once b4 so correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure 1 of the fets has blown cause the wheel to not spin freely.
anybody have any inputs or more info regarding this please share. i will be contacting the person who sold it to me for a replacement.

What is your voltage from your battery?
What is your battery power level and setup? Are all its connection good and have you tried your battery so that it is OK?

If you can; how does your controller look inside and do you know if a part is broken if you se it?

battery voltage is 75v max, 18s lipo pack, running 6x 6s 22000mah for 2p, 3series to make 74v 44000mah.
pack is very good condition already tested it. power level for controller is 200amp peak rate.
all connections is good. ive built a few bikes before so i know what im doing. i have not opened the controller yet cause waiting from the seller to see if they will send me another controller. i will dissect it if i get a chance.

Yeah its hard to do an investigation from afar.

I guess I'd open it but your waiting for a response from the seller. I saw someone online that had the positive and negative wires in wrong order, but that would kill it the first time you finished your setup and if you try you can really get a broken controller 100%. Maybe a fuse blow?

I have the 150A version and it can be unlocked to 200a from battery side so I'm in the safe zone. If yours was at maximum and your battery gave all it had it's possible something has happened. I'd remove variable regen throttle connectors because that did not work first time I tried setting up mine. Also I didn't connect 12v or 5v brake connections.

If you have your wires connected does the green or red lamp light up or blink or nothing?

Do you have access to the settings in the sabvoton controller through your phones app or the computer?

leffex said:

had the positive and negative wires in wrong order,

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I did that today, but with my Lenovo charger. I was stupid in that I soldered a black wire onto the chargers red wire. I should have clued in when I made the connection and it sparked a little more then it should have.

On topic: I blew a controllers high side FET bank (one of the phases) because I was using alligator clips to find the right combo and the metal clips touched, burning the clips thin wire.

Another wild stab in the dark:

Did you regen down a steep hill? If you were regening from more than 20% over your top speed, there's a possibility that the over-voltage can blow the controller.

Sounds a bit weird to me. Solid state devices that pass QC tend not to just blow for no reason. Almost all failures are caused by wrong Exceeding specification of something.

Sure sounds like a blown mosfet. Check if one of the phases has continuity between battery pos or neg.

at this point when everything is connected all that happends is the red light continuously blinks. i can NOT get into the programming using phone as it does not detect controller at all. the display is lit up ok but has an error and check engine symbol.
bike was going down hill when it happend. regen wasnt connect. only thing wire up was the throttle.
i was only about half throttle when the controller popped as you cannot full throttle a 14kw ebike without flying off.
just got a replacement controller and sent back the old. will update once the new 1 goes in. fingers crossed it doesnt happen again lol.

What motor? How hard a motor is to drive varies wildly, and using an insufficient controller for a given motor can easily stress and blow a controller.

motor is a QS 273 8KW rated. its a big and heavy motor but the controller is 200amp peak. it shouldnt just blow under load and thats not even full load, maybe 50-60% if that.

Any update on the whether the seller is offering you a replacement?

They may get defensive and refuse you a refund, because if you got a false positive on the phase wiring, it's pretty easy to do exactly what you did - A bike that works perfectly on light load, but blows on the first heavy load run.

Unless you bought both from the same seller, and they had colour coded connectors, they could easily just accuse you of screwing up the connectors.

yes as i have mentioned they sent me a new replacement. im in the process of installing it.
they asked alot of question and also asked for photos and videos explaning the problem and to make sure i have wired everything correctly. after going back n forth so many times with a lil bit of pushing them they gave up and sent a new 1.
false positive and the phase wire? what exactly does that mean can you elaborate please. and yes everything is colour coded so connecting the wrong things is pretty hard to do...

Colour coding is only valid when the same manufacturer makes the motor and the controller. Everyone uses Blue Green Yellow wires, but there's no standard definition to the colour. What matters is that the phases are in sync with the hall signals.

There are 6 possible combinations, one is right. One sends you backwards, and the rest either do nothing, or is the false positive I mentioned.

In the false positive, the motor still spins, but hums more than it should, and chews up much more power than it should. Hence, on a light load, no issue. On a heavy load, it tends to blow controllers.

There is a much better article than I could write in the technical reference area: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3484

Even if you bought motor and controller from the same company, there's a possibility that they messed up the colour coding, in which case warranty repair was definitely justified anyway.

In case it was the motor which had the colour coding mixed up, I'd be using the ammeter method fetcher described in the linked technical article.

And if you could do another Sydneysider a favour - post up how much power the qs 273 uses on no load. Not only will one of us tell you if it's suspiciously out of the ballpark, I just received my Qs 273 today (8kw, v4 50H), and will be doing my own testing soon. Will be good to have reference figures. A Q100H is about 60w no load on a mountainbike wheel. Not sure what it will be on a qs273 on a 17 x 3.5 alloy motorcycle wheel.

yup thanks for the info. in terms of how it spins, what amps it takes and how it sounds it seems pretty good to me. i have tested it on the rd with about 25% power a few times around the block and it was fine. it was only until i reset to factory settings which enabled 100% power is where it blew. ive wired everything up with new controller and will be doing some tests soon. will keep you guys updated on the results.

new controller in and tested it all the way up to about 95% power and every things seems good so far. pops wheelies easily at that setting. now rises another problem im having. my regen brakes dont work, unsure if my settings is no good but when i connect 1 regen brake lever and press it, the lcd comes up a handbrake signal but nothing happends. wheel doesnt slow down. when i connect 2 regen brakes it shits itself and throttle doesnt even work. no idea whats the go i will email mqcon about how to resolve this unless some1 here knows how to do it would be much apprecicated.

cheers

saiyan said:

motor is a QS 273 8KW rated. its a big and heavy motor but the controller is 200amp peak. it shouldnt just blow under load and thats not even full load, maybe 50-60% if that.

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Yes, that motor can easily blow that relatively low powered controller.

200amp controller low powered? lol i thought that was pretty strong....
if it acually peaks at 200 amps x 70v thats 14000w peak power. that should be plenty for the motor.

Do you think that 200A controller could help in the crusty snow with my mxus 3kw, its just about 5x what I currently got 8) :lol: just hope the magic winding pixi smoke stays away :lol: dark red is no good, breath it in.

How many controllers has everyone busted?

saiyan said:

200amp controller low powered? lol i thought that was pretty strong....
if it acually peaks at 200 amps x 70v thats 14000w peak power. that should be plenty for the motor.

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Ok so final rundown on the controller and fixes ive made. So ive tested it at peak power and everything seems good. Lifts the front up with ease, pulling about 8-10kw. My best guess with the old controller is that it was a dud from the get go and was going to blow either way. Other problem i had was the regen or ebrake not working, after speaking to the guy i bought it off i found out the default settings was no good for the motor and had to tweak it abit and then regen was working. So all in all ive gained more knowledge and now the bike is running smooth. Thanks for all the help and hope this post helps other in future also.

Hey, I have the same problem with the ebrake. How did you fix it?

saiyan said:

Ok so final rundown on the controller and fixes ive made. So ive tested it at peak power and everything seems good. Lifts the front up with ease, pulling about 8-10kw. My best guess with the old controller is that it was a dud from the get go and was going to blow either way. Other problem i had was the regen or ebrake not working, after speaking to the guy i bought it off i found out the default settings was no good for the motor and had to tweak it abit and then regen was working. So all in all ive gained more knowledge and now the bike is running smooth. Thanks for all the help and hope this post helps other in future also.

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When you installed your first controller, did you make the hall test properly?
It can affect the controller/motor sync quite a bit if not well done, maybe even blow the controller if everything is totally off sync.

Did your supplier explained you in details how to do it?
On my bikes I've did it a few times, each time with different test current settings until I was sure to get consistent results. If the current settings for the test are too low you can get wrong results.

hey "shaker" i was told i had to change my settings as it wasnt correct for my motor setup.
im using a qs 273 hub motor and it had default poles at 23, i was told to set it to 16 poles for that specific motor.
the 2nd thing was my controller is a 72v controller and i have to change the over voltage to 86v.
those were the 2 things i changed and my ebrake and regen started to work. unsure about your setup but adjust accordingly and it should work.

hey "dui" i watched vids on how to program and run hall test n stuff so i did all that before i cranked it up. i still believe it was a faulty controller. it was running fine at low to mid power but at max it blew. ive opened the controller up hoping to find something blown but everything looks good so i have no idea what blew. and yes i know something blew cause i heard a pop when it happend...

Can anyone told me how big is to big spark?
I´m connecting total 88v battery and it seems to spark a lot. I use 4lipos in series. BTW I have same controller in unlocked mode to.

markz said:

leffex said:

had the positive and negative wires in wrong order,

Click to expand...

They seems to be okey in my case
I did that today, but with my Lenovo charger. I was stupid in that I soldered a black wire onto the chargers red wire. I should have clued in when I made the connection and it sparked a little more then it should have.

On topic: I blew a controllers high side FET bank (one of the phases) because I was using alligator clips to find the right combo and the metal clips touched, burning the clips thin wire.

Click to expand...

If you don't like the spark, lookup Precharge and make a setup for that; it's simple enough.