Are These Compatable

I am looking to make my daughters super 73-z1 faster and give it more range. I'm using a Kt lcd 3 with a kt 9 mosfet sign wave controller with a 5p 48 volt battery. Here is a link to the controller and lcd I bought: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/36-48V-250-350-500W-Electric-Bicycle-Scooter-Brushless-9-Mosfet-Sine-Wave-Controller-with-KT/32972931563.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4c044c4dzFp2lt

I hooked the wires up with all colors matching. The controller also has a white wire with the hall wires. Speed sensor? I hooked it to the white wire going to the motor. Only thing that isn't hooked up is pas and headlight. I used a very good youtube video to get my Kt lcd3 set properly. The problem I am having is the motor works when it wants and doesn't sound good when it decides to work. Speed ramps more power when it feels like it if it works. It sounds rough. I tested motor again after on a stock z1 and it still works fine. I tried installing motor phase wires in all possible configs and it did not help at all. I also tried a different thumb throttle. It acts like a bad throttle. Wondering if I have a bad controller or if it's even compatible with this motor. I will post a picture of the motor info. All help would be very appreciated.

You probably have bad phase or Hall wire assignments, or both. Wire color codes don't usually correspond between different manufacturers.

Lack of continuity between one or more of your wire pairs can manifest the same symptoms.

Ok I will try all combinations. This is what i'm using correct me if this is wrong please.

Tried all combinations and no luck. I'll have to try a new controller unless anyone else has any other ideas.

Sometimes there's power at my phase controller wires and sometimes there's not.

Could I be using the wrong type of throttle? Using this one.

99% sure you just have a bad connection somewhere. the key indicator is that it sometimes works, sometimes don't. Wrong combo would never work.

Look for one phase, or one hall connection not good. Or a cut , or damaged without cut wire.

Put 3 volts on the throttle input, with wheel off the ground. It should start up reliably. If not you got an intermittent somewhere. Could be inside the controller. It's just a $20 part. Not going to be well made.

If the Hall connections were bad, there's an associated LCD3 error for that. Likewise for a miswired throttle, which you do not have if it works sometimes. Make sure the PAS connector, which you may not be using, isn't shorted to the frame.

Dogman dan nailed it I bet.
Look at the solder/crimp connection along with the mating surfaces of the connector itself, like the bullets.

I'll check continuity in the hall and phase wires. If I find nothing a new controller will be here soon. I will update when the problem is solved either way. All connections besides throttle and lcd are soldered.

New controller works perfect. Something in the controller was bad. Not sure what but happy now. Docw009 nailed it.