Ferrofluid for hub cooling? BS or real?

Chalo said:
brumbrum said:
I dont think ff and hubsinks make motors more efficient, they just help dissipate the wasted heat, so things in the motor dont get cooked :D


The fact that ferrofluid cooling and supplementary heat sinks seem to appeal to the same folks who use heavy draggy wheels/tires and heavy energy-wasting suspension instead of lighter and more efficient alternatives tells us what this stuff is really about: fetishism. It's hot rodding for the sake of hot rodding, like putting a big turbo on a little economy car engine, or overclocking and water cooling an outdated CPU.

Haaah, lmfao, those are the best two sentences i've read on here in the past 8 years :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: fooking brilliant!
I must admit you have described myself and many others perfectly. However, i would like to insist that my mud plugging tractor dd hub with fat heavy moto wheels and mx tyres is really fun Rolling around in the deep muck of Wales. :wink: hilarious haah!
 
Chalo said:
The most power efficient motors both now and back when I started messing around with these things are still the big slow direct drive hubs, once you factor in efficiency losses due to reduction gearing.
In a 150kg gross weight vehicle, the weight penalty of those is something like 2% of the total compared to most of the lightest alternatives. And even that difference only comes into play when accelerating or climbing.


15kg bike + 85kg me + 2kg battery + ( 4kg vs 11kg ) motor. 6% weight difference and 3% efficiency due to gears.

Now let's climb a 10% hill at 10kph. P = mv sin( hill ).

9.81*106 * 10*1000/3600 * sin(10/100) = 16495 j/s
9.81*113 * 10*1000/3600 * sin(10/100) = 17584 j/s 6.6% more power required.

According the motor sim:
a Q100 500w geared hub at 39% throttle to balance torque against the load, requires ~350w and delivers it at ~28% efficiency.
A Golden 500w DD hub at 59% throttle to balance torque against the load, requires ~410w and delivers it at ~21% efficiency.

So, the 3% efficiency lost through gearing is more than made up for by the combination of: torque multiplication by those gears; rpm being closer to optimum (higher due to gearing); and lighter weight.

Unless your ride(s) consist of predominantly long, flat, high speed runs with no need to stop-start or climb, a lighter geared hub is substantially more efficient even with the gearing loss.

In 1885 Karl Benz built a 500w gas powered tricycle with a single speed transmission. 10 years later, Panhard & Levassor introduced a 3 speed crash box, which remained state of the art until the 1928 Cadillac synchromesh came out.

As someone once said:
Furthermore, the engine provides its highest torque and power outputs unevenly across the rev range resulting in a torque band and a power band. Often the greatest torque is required when the vehicle is moving from rest or traveling slowly, while maximum power is needed at high speed. Therefore, a system is required that transforms the engine's output so that it can supply high torque at low speeds, but also operate at highway speeds with the motor still operating within its limits. Transmissions perform this transformation.

That applies (almost*) equally to small electric motors as is does to the ICEs it was written about. You either go big, or get gearing, and ebikes are all about staying small and efficient aren't they?

Chalo said:
The fact that ferrofluid cooling and supplementary heat sinks seem to appeal to the same folks who use heavy draggy wheels/tires and heavy energy-wasting suspension instead of lighter and more efficient alternatives tells us what this stuff is really about: fetishism. It's hot rodding for the sake of hot rodding, like putting a big turbo on a little economy car engine, or overclocking and water cooling an outdated CPU.

I was agreeing with you that extra cooling (via extra weight and drag) is the wrong solution to the problem.

(*The whole max. torque at 0 rpm is widely misunderstood. Power = torque * rpm. If rpm == 0, power== 0! You need rpms to develop power, and at low speeds, that requires gears. The torque multiplication is a bonus.)
 
brumbrum said:
I dont think ff and hubsinks make motors more efficient, they just help dissipate the wasted heat, so things in the motor dont get cooked :D

There is a small benefit if the ferrofluid and hubsinks keep the motor cooling than it would be without them as winding losses will be reduced due to lower resistance.

This is really a secondary benefit though, as you say the main benefit is to increased continuous power handling to do more with a smaller/lighter/cheaper motor.

But yes, reliability suffers as soon as you start pushing the envelope on anything and the real answer would be a more efficient motor that doesn't make the waste heat in the first place, but these are motors in the hundreds-of-dollars range and made of Chinesium, so it's making the best of what's available.
 
Buk___ said:
Now let's climb a 10% hill at 10kph. P = mv sin( hill ).

9.81*106 * 10*1000/3600 * sin(10/100) = 16495 j/s
9.81*113 * 10*1000/3600 * sin(10/100) = 17584 j/s 6.6% more power required.

This accounts for only the power required to lift the mass. It disregards the power required to drive the vehicle at 10kph on level ground, which is harder to calculate but is added to the above. And I have to fault any math that suggests it takes more than 6% extra energy to raise only 6% more mass. You don't need to know the slope of the hill to calculate (potential) energy = mass * height * g.

Hill climbing and accelerations only occur some of the time, and only account for a fraction of the power used at those times, whereas efficiency differences accrue anytime power is being used and apply to all the power being produced.

A light bike is qualitatively nicer to ride than a heavy one, and a bike that freewheels is more fun than one that drags. But when you're talking efficiency, it takes a lot of bike weight reduction to equal the real world effect of a small improvement in drive efficiency.
 
Chalo said:
And I have to fault any math that suggests it takes more than 6% extra energy to raise only 6% more mass.

106/113*100 = 106.6037735849056603773584905660377% more mass.
 
Buk___ said:
Chalo said:
And I have to fault any math that suggests it takes more than 6% extra energy to raise only 6% more mass.

106/113*100 = 106.6037735849056603773584905660377% more mass.


Maan, you throw numbers like a ninja throws stars! Deadly!
 
Chalo said:
The fact that ferrofluid cooling and supplementary heat sinks seem to appeal to the same folks who use heavy draggy wheels/tires and heavy energy-wasting suspension instead of lighter and more efficient alternatives tells us what this stuff is really about: fetishism. It's hot rodding for the sake of hot rodding, like putting a big turbo on a little economy car engine, or overclocking and water cooling an outdated CPU.

Hey Chalo, that may indeed be the case for many of the people here on ES, but there are a lot of regular commuter types with ride situations where it really does make a world of difference. For instance, on a Brompton folding bike every kg of additional motor weight has significant ramification on the ability to carry or travel with the bike and remain under the weight limits.

Here Statorade makes the difference between a system that goes into thermal rollback and limited power on any significant hill climb, versus one that can handle steep grades continuously with no issue. We just finished editing and uploading our test video from last summer on this particular system and it's pretty impressive.

To the OP asking if this ferrofluid is BS or for Real? I'll let the video do the talking!
[youtube]9bvS0aZ4VpA[/youtube]
 
Chalo lives in Austin. I'd ask an ebiker who lives in Colorado to see if they have a different opinion. Maybe they would agree?

Pic courtesy of ABritInNY

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Will ferrofluid leak if I don't seal the side covers with silicone, but add the fluid via syringe directly to the magnets?
 
Duncan75 said:
Will ferrofluid leak if I don't seal the side covers with silicone, but add the fluid via syringe directly to the magnets?

Hard to say. Centrifugal force will tend to make it leak out even though it's stuck to the magnets.
 
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