TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

andrea_104kg said:
andyme said:
andrea_104kg said:
Sorry, my english it's bad, i do not undestand the difference betwine throttle version and no throttle version. The fist it's ONLY for throttle or work also whith torque sensor?
A motor whithout throttle works whith throttle version?
Click to expand...

Hi, you know what throttle is, yes? it is thumb gaz switch, so you can ride the bike like a motorcycle.

so: if you have this version, you use the throttle file, if you do not have it, you use the other one.
Click to expand...

but if i have throtte version and do not use throtte, it works?
Actually no problem i have a 36v no throttle, but i will buy a 48v for another bike, and i planned to buy throttle version. But only for rare use of throttle.
Click to expand...

I think it would be helpful to get some clarity on this from the devs/super users. Some use cases regarding throttle/non throttle versions:
1. Can you use non-throttle version if you have an 8 pin model but do not plan on using throttle? Or
2. No matter what, if you have the 8 pin model you need to use the throttle version?
3. If #1 = yes, do you also need to use a throttle version if you want to utilize the temp gauge? (Uses throttle wire correct?)

That’s all i can think of right now :)
 
andyme said:
nbdriver said:
And what precisely does the new ramp code ?
Click to expand...

This is something I also really would like to know.

Maybe someone from those who know could be so kind to explain what it does and how that improves the behavior.

I am sure everyone here does his best to follow up but we simply do not all have the same knowledge...

Thanks...
Click to expand...

Hey Andy, details can be found on the corresponding GitHub issue. https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/issues/49

The guys have done some great work tracking and documenting everything. Lots of great info there.
 
gaber said:
andrea_104kg said:
andyme said:
andrea_104kg said:
Sorry, my english it's bad, i do not undestand the difference betwine throttle version and no throttle version. The fist it's ONLY for throttle or work also whith torque sensor?
A motor whithout throttle works whith throttle version?
Click to expand...

Hi, you know what throttle is, yes? it is thumb gaz switch, so you can ride the bike like a motorcycle.

so: if you have this version, you use the throttle file, if you do not have it, you use the other one.
Click to expand...

but if i have throtte version and do not use throtte, it works?
Actually no problem i have a 36v no throttle, but i will buy a 48v for another bike, and i planned to buy throttle version. But only for rare use of throttle.
Click to expand...

I think it would be helpful to get some clarity on this from the devs/super users. Some use cases regarding throttle/non throttle versions:
1. Can you use non-throttle version if you have an 8 pin model but do not plan on using throttle? Or
2. No matter what, if you have the 8 pin model you need to use the throttle version?
3. If #1 = yes, do you also need to use a throttle version if you want to utilize the temp gauge? (Uses throttle wire correct?)

That’s all i can think of right now :)
Click to expand...
I'm happy to clarify this. The correct answer is actually #1. It's definitely not #3, warning!

The whole reason for separate versions is that the temperature sensor is using the throttle input and can potentially lead to a dangerous situation.

Summary:
1. use throttle version if you have the 8 pin controller and want to use throttle. No problem to use the non-throttle version.
2. If #1 you cannot use the temperature sensor.
3. Always and only use the non-throttle version if you want to use the temperature sensor!!
4. Use non-throttle version for 6 pin controller.
 
gaber said:
andyme said:
nbdriver said:
And what precisely does the new ramp code ?
Click to expand...

This is something I also really would like to know.

Maybe someone from those who know could be so kind to explain what it does and how that improves the behavior.

I am sure everyone here does his best to follow up but we simply do not all have the same knowledge...

Thanks...
Click to expand...

Hey Andy, details can be found on the corresponding GitHub issue. https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/issues/49

The guys have done some great work tracking and documenting everything. Lots of great info there.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gabe,

I had seen this, but i had not thought to hit the link to get to jbalat's video...now i am getting what the topic is, the technical concept behind it is nothing i can understand, but that is also not really necessary.


I
 
EndlessCadence said:
gaber said:
I think it would be helpful to get some clarity on this from the devs/super users. Some use cases regarding throttle/non throttle versions:
1. Can you use non-throttle version if you have an 8 pin model but do not plan on using throttle? Or
2. No matter what, if you have the 8 pin model you need to use the throttle version?
3. If #1 = yes, do you also need to use a throttle version if you want to utilize the temp gauge? (Uses throttle wire correct?)

That’s all i can think of right now :)
Click to expand...
I'm happy to clarify this. The correct answer is actually #1. It's definitely not #3, warning!

The whole reason for separate versions is that the temperature sensor is using the throttle input and can potentially lead to a dangerous situation.

Summary:
1. use throttle version if you have the 8 pin controller and want to use throttle. No problem to use the non-throttle version.
2. If #1 you cannot use the temperature sensor.
3. Always and only use the non-throttle version if you want to use the temperature sensor!!
4. Use non-throttle version for 6 pin controller.
Click to expand...

Super helpful. Thank you EC!! I think it would be valuable to (even more) clearly call out the “throttle” version in github as “only for active use of a throttle” or something like that. Even a note that the non-throttle should be default might not be a bad idea. Cheers!
 
Regarding the ramp version 16...

From what I understand the inverse ramp has been adjusted so that the motor gets up to speed very quickly which eliminates lag when you are cruising and stop pedalling then start again. This can be up to 2 seconds if you are travelling over 30km/hr.

The current ramp is now controlling how fast the current is applied so that it is not all applied at once and provide too much power.

I hope that the current ramp can be adjusted in the menu in the future so as to suit everyones riding style :)

BTW Thanks EC and Casainho for version 16..
I might just change the "wheel speed" test to reference "cadence" instead since my wheel sensor is intermittent and I dont want to lose power, you may want to consider this change also since I think they will both work for the case of "leaning on a tree"
 
gaber said:
andyme said:
I just want to say that the colors of STLink cables are arbitrary...it can be about anything depending on the maker
Click to expand...

They’re not important in general, but i wanted my prep to be very prescriptive and thought out so i just had to execute when soldering time came. That said, great point that those specifics vary and should be removed before posting to wiki.

andyme said:
And why would you solder the speed sensor cable to the pins? i did as on the pic attachedWhatsApp Image 2018-11-13 at 23.08.08.jpeg
Click to expand...

To match up with the male end of the speed sensor > STLink cable i made to flash the motor. This isn’t necessary, but is an option and (IMHO) provides the cleanest and easiest method for future flashing of both the motor and LCD. Some photos would be worth all the above words, I’ll work on getting some.
Click to expand...

Some photo will be very helpfull
Thanks :wink:
 
EndlessCadence said:
nbdriver said:
And what precisely does the new ramp code ? I hesitate between flashing 0.15.1 and 0.16.
Click to expand...
Go with 0.15.1 for now, will solve the possible error on display (blinking 1) and is just an awesome version. The button issue has already been reported and is a low priority for me.
Click to expand...

Thank you EC, i'm going to use it to go to work tomorow but for the five minutes i used it already, it seems to be great. Maybe just a little too much assistance for me with the default settings.

For the ramp in the 0.16 version, if i refer to the explanation of jbalat, as i uderstand it could help to save the gears, am i wrong ?

And is there a way to use the power limit quick setting On/off + UP when offroad mode function is enabled ?
 
vadda said:
To match up with the male end of the speed sensor > STLink cable i made to flash the motor. This isn’t necessary, but is an option and (IMHO) provides the cleanest and easiest method for future flashing of both the motor and LCD. Some photos would be worth all the above words, I’ll work on getting some.
Click to expand...

Some photo will be very helpfull
Thanks :wink:[/quote]

Here you go...

STLink soldered to male end of the speed extension cable. Allows for quick flashing direct to motor and lcd with....

147bc51a43ece4e2c9d3846f60473ffb.jpg


Female end of that same speed extension cable. 4 corresponding cables (per wiring in above quote) soldered to the LCD3 programming pins. Small hole drilled in the back of the LCD case, a little hot glue and you have quick and easy display flashing.

40bcabb850bb12b98b76242786915f08.jpg


3084ff620cfb1adc026bfae65287d158.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
gaber said:
vadda said:
To match up with the male end of the speed sensor > STLink cable i made to flash the motor. This isn’t necessary, but is an option and (IMHO) provides the cleanest and easiest method for future flashing of both the motor and LCD. Some photos would be worth all the above words, I’ll work on getting some.
Click to expand...

Some photo will be very helpfull
Thanks :wink:
Click to expand...

Here you go...

STLink soldered to male end of the speed extension cable. Allows for quick flashing direct to motor and lcd with....

147bc51a43ece4e2c9d3846f60473ffb.jpg


Female end of that same speed extension cable. 4 corresponding cables (per wiring in above quote) soldered to the LCD3 programming pins. Small hole drilled in the back of the LCD case, a little hot glue and you have quick and easy display flashing.

40bcabb850bb12b98b76242786915f08.jpg


3084ff620cfb1adc026bfae65287d158.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[/quote]

NICE! my solution was quicker and dirtier :D

by the way: i do not attempt to become a moderator here, but maybe it is better to make these kind of conversatiions in the other thread so that this here remains for the pure firmware discussion...so that we know why we have two threads altogether...
 
Thanks Casainho and EC for a great work with the open source firmware :bigthumb:

V0.15.1 works really good :D

I appreciate the work and time you are putting into this
 
andyme said:
by the way: i do not attempt to become a moderator here, but maybe it is better to make these kind of conversatiions in the other thread so that this here remains for the pure firmware discussion...so that we know why we have two threads altogether...
Click to expand...

Great point. I've been posting anything related to the firmware in this thread to keep it all (wiring, parts discussion, etc) in one place, and then posting all motor specific items in the general TSDZ2 thread.

To the group - what would be the most helpful way to utilize this thread vs the general one?

Additionally, casahino/EC/jbalat - I'd like to make some more contributions to the wiki. What process would be most helpful for me to follow? Submit edits here? Is there a propose change function in GitHub? Or just make the edits and give a heads up here for review?
 
gaber said:
andyme said:
by the way: i do not attempt to become a moderator here, but maybe it is better to make these kind of conversatiions in the other thread so that this here remains for the pure firmware discussion...so that we know why we have two threads altogether...
Click to expand...
To the group - what would be the most helpful way to utilize this thread vs the general one?

Additionally, casahino/EC/jbalat - I'd like to make some more contributions to the wiki. What process would be most helpful for me to follow? Submit edits here? Is there a propose change function in GitHub? Or just make the edits and give a heads up here for review?
Click to expand...
I do not plan to make much more changes to motor and LCD3 firmware, so I think it is a good time now to document it to new users, document on wiki.

Yes, I think is important to previous discuss here structure and big changes on wiki.

I feel the need to have a deep technical section that I call development and the section only for users!! I think the section for users should have the big relevance and keep the development section kind of very low profile (anyway the pates will be found by Google when developers search for the key works).

So, please guys put energy to document the install and configuration processes of the firmware. Maybe some users cases as example would be easy for new users to follow and learn. I think new users are also new users to DIY ebikes so detailed guides should be a good investment.
 
Just tested 0.16.
Overall driving impression was perfect. No lags, I could easily hit 40km/h in High Cadence Mode - and that with a 24V Battery, usually causing a significant power loss in higher cadences.

But I have Issues, mainly because of the default values. I even resetted to factory defaults in the middle of the config, starting the whole procedure again (wich is a pain because of lowering the undervoltage limit to 20V, wich are around 200 clicks).
But I have to give up on the Wattcounter Reset Voltage Limit, wich I would have to bring from 5000 V to 27V, resulting in doing 50 000 clicks. What to do here?

The Wattcounter Field (Temperature Field) was empty again. And like Wattcounter Reset Value, same Issue with the internal battery resistance, wich is 2000something in my setup, wich can be solved by doing 1850 key pressings :wink:

Part of it can be tackled with a long press button mode, counting continuously in one direction going higher speeds as long as you press. In case of a 5000 V Wattmeter Reset Limit I doubt that there will be any sense in preset default values of 100V.

And what happened to the Odo-Field?
 
BTW. It sounds more and more like it will change to another (color or bluetooth) display. Wich one is it?
 
I tested 15.1 on my daily commute, and I discovered some power related issue. I've got the 48V motor and I use 48V battery, everything default: max current 16A I set max power 850W and in assist level 2,3,4,5 when the human power goes over 350-400W the motor power limited around 500-550W and it's wont go any higher until human power reduced below around 200W, in that case the motor power can go higher like 750-850W in higher assist levels. I tried not limiting the power but the result is the same.
Is anyone experiencing the same problem?
 
Eremit said:
Just tested 0.16.
Overall driving impression was perfect. No lags, I could easily hit 40km/h in High Cadence Mode - and that with a 24V Battery, usually causing a significant power loss in higher cadences.

But I have Issues, mainly because of the default values. I even resetted to factory defaults in the middle of the config, starting the whole procedure again (wich is a pain because of lowering the undervoltage limit to 20V, wich are around 200 clicks).
But I have to give up on the Wattcounter Reset Voltage Limit, wich I would have to bring from 5000 V to 27V, resulting in doing 50 000 clicks. What to do here?

The Wattcounter Field (Temperature Field) was empty again. And like Wattcounter Reset Value, same Issue with the internal battery resistance, wich is 2000something in my setup, wich can be solved by doing 1850 key pressings :wink:

Part of it can be tackled with a long press button mode, counting continuously in one direction going higher speeds as long as you press. In case of a 5000 V Wattmeter Reset Limit I doubt that there will be any sense in preset default values of 100V.

And what happened to the Odo-Field?
Click to expand...


Ok, problem came from a sort of dirty flashing. No problem anymore after reflashing / blanking. But Long press mode is still a good idea... :)
 
wheex said:
I tested 15.1 on my daily commute, and I discovered some power related issue. I've got the 48V motor and I use 48V battery, everything default: max current 16A I set max power 850W and in assist level 2,3,4,5 when the human power goes over 350-400W the motor power limited around 500-550W and it's wont go any higher until human power reduced below around 200W, in that case the motor power can go higher like 750-850W in higher assist levels. I tried not limiting the power but the result is the same.
Is anyone experiencing the same problem?
Click to expand...

I wish...for me this would be the right approach altogether. I personally think that we should have individually customisable max power levels per assist level, while allowing e.g. 10 second unlimited "boosts to max power" to overcome short obstacle distances.

But with the new multiplier approach, one can reach highest power levels in the lowest assist levels...it is ok, if this is what one wants, but i think there should also be the possibility to limit it in order not to waste battery without one really noticing it.

my suggestion therefore: allow to limit max power in each assist level. so if the allowed boost phase of 10 seconds is reached, power will gradually go down to the set limit, and the rider will be forced to either go up a notch to the level that has higher max power settings or to shift down. this way you stay in control of power consumption without having to have the eye on the display all the time.
 
casainho said:
gaber said:
andyme said:
by the way: i do not attempt to become a moderator here, but maybe it is better to make these kind of conversatiions in the other thread so that this here remains for the pure firmware discussion...so that we know why we have two threads altogether...
Click to expand...
To the group - what would be the most helpful way to utilize this thread vs the general one?

Additionally, casahino/EC/jbalat - I'd like to make some more contributions to the wiki. What process would be most helpful for me to follow? Submit edits here? Is there a propose change function in GitHub? Or just make the edits and give a heads up here for review?
Click to expand...
I do not plan to make much more changes to motor and LCD3 firmware, so I think it is a good time now to document it to new users, document on wiki.

Yes, I think is important to previous discuss here structure and big changes on wiki.

I feel the need to have a deep technical section that I call development and the section only for users!! I think the section for users should have the big relevance and keep the development section kind of very low profile (anyway the pates will be found by Google when developers search for the key works).

So, please guys put energy to document the install and configuration processes of the firmware. Maybe some users cases as example would be easy for new users to follow and learn. I think new users are also new users to DIY ebikes so detailed guides should be a good investment.
Click to expand...

What do you guys think of the following to keep things simple before it gets better: allow links to relevant posts in the wiki so that one gets kind of a box with wiki related posts, so that one does not have to go thru hunderds of pages with the risk of skipping the important posts by mistake...so then this can be organised, cleaned, written up etc..this will probably be a rather lengthy procedure while there is plenty of written knowledge in the 2 threads that almost covers what needs to be known. so one container with all these posts could be a very useful thing right away and can subsequently be improved to a clean write up....my 2 cts..
 
andyme said:
What do you guys think of the following to keep things simple before it gets better: allow links to relevant posts in the wiki so that one gets kind of a box with wiki related posts, so that one does not have to go thru hunderds of pages with the risk of skipping the important posts by mistake...
Click to expand...
I think that would be a poor content, would be fast compared to read all that posts and resume on previous well thought structured wiki pages.

I really like the FAQ and put there the common questions being asked here. Then, develop each topic on the FAQ that seems to have a need for that.

I see that there are a lot of links on wiki, to the page https://opensourceebikefirmware.bitbucket.io/development_tsdz2 that I created and I will remove soon and so the information will be lost if wiki just use links (as it will happen when links to other external pages that can at anytime be deleted)... I think wiki should store the relevant information/files!! Yes, it gives a lot of work, but step by step, it will grow and will get a good quality.

Wiki backup happens on the computer of every writer/developer, when we checkout/download the git of the wiki. The full files and wiki text pages are stored locally, github can go down but our computers will keep the files.
 
casainho said:
andyme said:
What do you guys think of the following to keep things simple before it gets better: allow links to relevant posts in the wiki so that one gets kind of a box with wiki related posts, so that one does not have to go thru hunderds of pages with the risk of skipping the important posts by mistake...
Click to expand...
I think that would be a poor content, would be fast compared to read all that posts and resume on previous well thought structured wiki pages.

I really like the FAQ and put there the common questions being asked here. Then, develop each topic on the FAQ that seems to have a need for that.

I see that there are a lot of links on wiki, to the page https://opensourceebikefirmware.bitbucket.io/development_tsdz2 that I created and I will remove soon and so the information will be lost if wiki just use links (as it will happen when links to other external pages that can at anytime be deleted)... I think wiki should store the relevant information/files!! Yes, it gives a lot of work, but step by step, it will grow and will get a good quality.

Wiki backup happens on the computer of every writer/developer, when we checkout/download the git of the wiki. The full files and wiki text pages are stored locally, github can go down but our computers will keep the files.
Click to expand...

This sounds great. I'll do some thinking and drafting in my spare time and propose to the group as things come together. Looking forward to seeing the collaborative progress on this! You guys have done some amazing work on the firmware, making those features and the process to install/enable them accessible and easy to understand seems like one of the last missing pieces.
 
Firstly let me say version 16 is really cool - Love it, great work !!!!! :bigthumb:

In summary the only updates it needs is.
1. walk mode
2. no resistance backwards
3. cadence display - What happened to this, is it gone ???
4. Long keypress to fast cycle button clicks - I too got stuck doing like 100000000000 keypresses because default values are for 48v :)
 
jbalat said:
Firstly let me say version 16 is really cool - Love it, great work !!!!! :bigthumb:

In summary the only updates it needs is.
3. cadence display - What happened to this, is it go
Click to expand...
UP click + long click to cycle on odometer sub field. Cadence is on subfield for pedal where is shown rider human power.
 
I can't do it :(
Press up
Then let go
Then hold up for a few seconds

Does this toggle between human power and cadence if you do it right ?
 
jbalat said:
I can't do it :(
Press up
Then let go
Then hold up for a few seconds

Does this toggle between human power and cadence if you do it right ?
Click to expand...
Hmm, it is fast click and after long click
 
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