Cyclone 3k Motor turns off after some mins of riding, does it turn to hot? how to fix it?

So hi guys,

I have just finished my ebike with a Cyclone 3000W kit and a 52V 24ah GA battery from LunaCycle. I hooked up a bluetooth controller (Rated for 3000W) from YuYangKing.
When I drove (battery 90% charged) the motor stopped turning, it just shut off. But the rest of system was still powered^^

I have a 13T sprocket on the motor, 44/44T in the middle and im in 3rd or 4th gear on a 9 x cassette.

I built my own chain tensioner, but it isn't that tight.

Could it be the phase wires, I had to change green and blue wires (green from controller to blue from motor) because the motor was stuck. But I haven't found a way to run it otherwise. (It0s either reverse or stuck)

I have realised, that the motor is slightly skew, but really not much. Could this be the issue? The mounting from lunacycle is straight.

Thanks for all your help!

First, "some mins" is almost totally useless non-information. Try using actual numbers, repeat three times, report all results.

Lunacycle may have hosed you with a crap battery. If your BMS only does balancing at full charge, it could be badly unbalanced. It is important that you understand this concept and correct procedure. Failure to follow it could get not just expensive, but dangerous to yourself and others.

Why yes, it COULD be the phase wires, more precisely the order they, and the halls, are connected in. You clearly did not try very many combinations. If you search for the correct testing methodology, you should only get several hundred links to the completely spelled out, detailed analysis of how to do this right and get the proper combination. Pay very, very careful attention to the note about throttle usage during testing, additional screw-ups in this area could get expensive.

The motor mount is not likely to cause your current problem, and hey that is a pun, but it is important that the chainline be correct. Fix that.

It's quite likely the you have a "false positive" wiring combination, but you need to determine that first. Don't go riding and testing under load the way it is first, as you could fry the motor or controller that way due to over current. Since the system stays on it's not the BMS of the battery tripping and turning off.

Take the motor chain off, and run the motor only a little. It would be best if you can measure the current. Do you have the phone app for the controller? or some means of measuring actual current from the battery? Especially note the sound of the motor as it starts to spin with no load using a little throttle. Then note the current while running only a few seconds at wide open throttle (no-load current). Then using small pulses of throttle find the phase wire combination find the one that spins the motor in reverse, and do the same short no load test paying special attention to sound of the motor at it starts to spin.

If the motor starts and sounds smoother and/or has much lower current at wide open rpm with the reverse spinning combo, then your hall wire configuration (the small set of wires going to the motor) is set up for reverse. Simply swap any two (not the red or black +5v and gnd powering the halls, and not any temp sense wires) hall wires. Only swap 2. Then, again using small pulses of throttle, find the phase wire combo that spins the motor nice and smooth in the forward direction. Note the lower no load current at WOT, and then you should be good to go, assuming wiring config is the problem like it probably is.

If you have the phone and bluetooth app, set your current limits low while running these tests. Phase currents can get very high and harm something with bad wiring configs.

If with the current forward wiring config is the smoother sounding lower no-load current combination, then maybe your controller isn't able to handle the erpm of your mid-drive motor...or the motor itself has a problem...or you're trying to push too much of a load at your current gearing ratio. Report back with the no-load tests first. Take your time, and whatever you do don't go trying all 36 combos of halls and phase wires. To change direction it always takes only a swap of just 2 wires any 2 and only 2 (halls or phase) and then find the valid combo of the remain 5 possible of the other set. It's quite simple, just be careful of short circuits between each other while trying different combos, and be systematic to make sure you try all 5. I pick an anchor wire, eg motor green and then first try the 2 combos of it with controller green. Then move it to controller yellow and try both, and then to controller blue and try both...swapping only 2 wire with each attempt.