I assume this generic controller has LVC?

I've done a lot of reading on site but since this is my first ebike project- I interpret the label on the box to mean there is LVC that can be user dialed in from 1.1v - 3.7v below 60v nominal pack voltage?

I was attempting to just bench test the throttle wiring with a 36v pack. I don't have the second 36v pack built yet... Voltage meter on throttle read accurately and there were no hot smells or anything unusual, but no motor spin up.

Of course there were zero labels on any wires and no instructions! The phase, battery and hall leads are self explanatory, the three wire throttle lead was a safe bet, and based on research and intuition the throttle yellow goes to red and throttle blue to orange on controller which were paired to plug. See pic. One assumes they are the "ignition" wires at full battery V.

One other pair of wires (orange/black) also sees full pack V. Guesses as to what that is? Possibly the "hi brake" switch? I definitely want a handlebar kill switch so that might do it.

The three wire blue black yellow is likely the 3 speed range switch. And pretty sure the "self study" rotational wires are correct at bottom of pic...

Barncat said:

I interpret the label on the box to mean there is LVC that can be user dialed in from 1.1v - 3.7v below 60v nominal pack voltage?

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My interpretation would be that the throttle ("turn the" on the sticker) operating range is 1.1 volts start, to 3.7 volts WOT.

With the sticker acknowledging an under, or low voltage protection, typically set around 50vdc +/- .5 volts for a 60 volt nominal input. Probably why your not getting any action yet with your input being under LVC.
Is 5vdc regulated controller power available for your halls or throttle power?


Regards,
T.C.

Hey TC- I did assume correctly then that the low voltage cutoff is the problem. That would be obvious i guess to anyone experienced with these boxes. I could certainly be excused for not knowing what the hell "turn the" means...

I'll have to get the full battery pack together and I suspect it'll work fine.

You've already helped other guys with this throttle on the site. Thanks.

Barncat said:

...what the hell "turn the" means...

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The translations are often confusing, and can be a bit amusing at times... :wink:

Sounds like your on your way, glad to be of some help.

at times?
At first it can be amusing, but after that it gets frustrating with the Engrish skrills. They like the R's when speaking.

TommyCat said:

The translations are often confusing, and can be a bit amusing at times... :wink:
Sounds like your on your way, glad to be of some help.

Click to expand...

Hey guys. The good news is I had an old li-ion pack collecting dust that I'd sort of forgotten about that still had 31v on it. So i put that in series with my latest experimental pack @ 36v and the motor spun up perfectly. So now the only thing preventing me from completing the Mongoose girder build referenced in another thread is finalizing the battery...

In the event that someone else has one of these controllers: the throttle wiring is correct as described above. The 3 speed selector is the plug I specified with black/yellow being low, black/blue medium, and with plug disconnected as is- high. The light blue to black is indeed the motor rotation direction plug which was correct for my application. The black/purple when shorted kills the motor so that's the brake/kill switch as far as I can tell. The light blue shorted to black lead in pic on top is reverse. There are zero volts indicated across the purple/orange plug, don't know what that is.

And finally, the remaining black orange plug indicates full pack voltage. I was reluctant to short that even though it's probably not passing much current? Any guesses as to what that is? Full pack V is correctly indicated on throttle with wiring as is.

If you have a soldering iron the LVC is pretty easy to change on most generic Chinese controller boards. There is a voltage divider from the battery pack that determines the cut-off voltage.

What I did on mine:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=85964#p1399161

Thanks for the heads up Thor. Actually the cutoff isn't a problem in my case, just wasn't able to test the whole setup with an undervolt battery. Now I know.