liveforphysics
100 TW
Methy sent me a Perm 132 motor that had a very rough turning rotor. He didn't want to mess with it, and I figured ehhh, what the heck.
So, I would say it took about 20ft-lbs to make the shaft rotate when I got it, so I figured I would take a few minutes to pull the heavy boat anchor apart and see what was going on inside.
I found zero data or photos online of taking these apart, including searching the mfg's site, which only covered brush replacement. I found it pretty simple to do though, only took about 10-15mins to strip it down to it's bare parts. I took some pics of the process I used to potentially help somebody else looking to take one apart.
You can see this rotor got hot enough to sling out some solder onto the outside of the stator.
Solder spray close-up.
I took the time to hand scrape off the thick enamel coating off the outside edge of every cooling plate blade. This took more time than the whole procedure, fortunately I did it during an online meeting at work so it didn't take any of MY time.
On assembly, I noticed a crack in the hub of the rotor... look at about the 9:30 o'clock position at area where the rotor meets the shaft. I dumped some alcohol on it, and it's a real crack, and it does run clear through, and out the other side on both sides of the shaft...
After cleaning all the solder particles off the edges of the motor and magnets, it turns freely now. I connected it to a 3V source, and it spins, though it draws a few hundred amps of no-load current.
Overall, I would say it's the most crude motor I've ever worked with in my life. Even the industrial multi-hundred HP motors at work use better casting and attention to detail.
Things I liked:
The brush layout is pretty slick.
The magnets are bonded in a very solid way.
Controllers are dirt cheap and/or easy to make.
Things I didn't like:
Rotor is the source of all the heating in this motor, and it's dipped in a thick enamel. This really hurts the cooling ability of the aluminum cooling plates poked around the edges of the rotor. It likely wouldn't have melted the first time if the cooling fins weren't all wearing an enamel blanket.
Crude! Think 1970's ford/GM/Mopar quality exhaust manfold casting crude.
Weight of this thing is massive. It's like the weight of 10 RC motors. lol
The rotor was cracked at the hub, and the whole thing has that crap engineering/metalurgy/plastic feeling you get with most German-made stuff. Definately has that "built by and for the lowest bidder" type feeling to the whole thing.
So, I would say it took about 20ft-lbs to make the shaft rotate when I got it, so I figured I would take a few minutes to pull the heavy boat anchor apart and see what was going on inside.
I found zero data or photos online of taking these apart, including searching the mfg's site, which only covered brush replacement. I found it pretty simple to do though, only took about 10-15mins to strip it down to it's bare parts. I took some pics of the process I used to potentially help somebody else looking to take one apart.
You can see this rotor got hot enough to sling out some solder onto the outside of the stator.
Solder spray close-up.
I took the time to hand scrape off the thick enamel coating off the outside edge of every cooling plate blade. This took more time than the whole procedure, fortunately I did it during an online meeting at work so it didn't take any of MY time.
On assembly, I noticed a crack in the hub of the rotor... look at about the 9:30 o'clock position at area where the rotor meets the shaft. I dumped some alcohol on it, and it's a real crack, and it does run clear through, and out the other side on both sides of the shaft...
After cleaning all the solder particles off the edges of the motor and magnets, it turns freely now. I connected it to a 3V source, and it spins, though it draws a few hundred amps of no-load current.
Overall, I would say it's the most crude motor I've ever worked with in my life. Even the industrial multi-hundred HP motors at work use better casting and attention to detail.
Things I liked:
The brush layout is pretty slick.
The magnets are bonded in a very solid way.
Controllers are dirt cheap and/or easy to make.
Things I didn't like:
Rotor is the source of all the heating in this motor, and it's dipped in a thick enamel. This really hurts the cooling ability of the aluminum cooling plates poked around the edges of the rotor. It likely wouldn't have melted the first time if the cooling fins weren't all wearing an enamel blanket.
Crude! Think 1970's ford/GM/Mopar quality exhaust manfold casting crude.
Weight of this thing is massive. It's like the weight of 10 RC motors. lol
The rotor was cracked at the hub, and the whole thing has that crap engineering/metalurgy/plastic feeling you get with most German-made stuff. Definately has that "built by and for the lowest bidder" type feeling to the whole thing.