CL5302 Motor

Hi guys,

I'm thinking about upgrading my bmx bike (current setup is front NC2805, 35A Infineon controller, Ping 52V 15Ah LiFe battery).

Option1 is to keep my motor and change the battery/controller (which is costly and require more work, eg upgrading phase/hall wires, venting the hub).

Option 2 - Changing my NC2805 for a fast CL5302 - would this be possible, keeping my current battery/controller? What kind of autonomy would I pull out of such a setup? Right now I'm getting at least 35km without pedalling, would this be the same with a 5302? I guess I would also lose torque, but since I'm riding on 20'' wheels, maybe it's less of an issue?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

The cheapest solution would be to rewire the motor from wye to delta. Cost almost nothing for ~1.7x more speed.
The Ping battery is also limiting options.

-Olaf

Thanks olaf,

Can you please extend on 'rewire the motor from wye to delta' - I'm fairly new at this - what kind of work is involved? I would increase the speed by 70%, do I understand you right?

There are some threads about that modification. Try to use the search function.

I try to explain it:
Usually you have three phase wires coming out of the motor U1,V1,W1
In the hub, the other ends of the windings U2,V2,W2 are drilled together as a wye or star point.
You have to open the star point and then connect it the way as shown in the picture:
U1+W2
U2+V1
V2+W1

So if you open up a hub there will a point where three wires come together? SO you take this and disconnect the three? Am I reading this right? How do you tell which is which??

vanilla ice said:

So if you open up a hub there will a point where three wires come together? SO you take this and disconnect the three? Am I reading this right? How do you tell which is which??

Click to expand...

You are right, there is a big bundle of copper-wires twisted and soldered together. This is the tricky part of it, to disassemble the bundle and sort out the three coil ends. You'd need a very powerful soldering-iron for that.
As you can see the connection between U1 and W2 is a bit longer than the others. I had to add some short/thick wire and use two sleeves of heatshrink to connect.
You can use an Ohm-meter to find start and end of each coil. All 6 ends must be separated at this time.
Also there is a pattern where the coil end come out of the slots. In my picture the three most right are the 'startpoints' of U,V,W.
The 4th wire is U2; 5th=V2; 6th=W2

-Olaf