Turnigy CA120-70 8600W Brushless Outrunner (100c eq)

Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
338
Location
nc, usa
Turnigy CA120-70 8600W Brushless Outrunner (100c eq)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14427

that's a big motor.
 
Nice! Truly a monster motor, but still only a 10mm shaft. I guess thier 200 amp contrler is supposed to push this thing? I wonder if those two components are designed specifically for each other. However, if you bought both you would be spending $600 which is alot of dough to put down on some Hobbyking wares. It looks taller and narrower, but the 80-100 is still 40mm shorter can length.
 
Stator dimensions of 120mm diameter by 70mm, and 15teeth?

Looks like a monster.
 
Yipes! :shock: This is definitely a bag-ass motor, for sure. At $300, it is not a bad price at all, for something this big. It definitely needs sensors and a big controller, though. I'm not sure I'd trust it with any RC controller.

-- Gary
 
That 17amp no-load current tells me something isn't right with it.
 
liveforphysics said:
That 17amp no-load current tells me something isn't right with it.
~800 Watts, before it does any useful work, would be disappointing. You can never trust the specifications on HK, though...

As posted:
Resistance: 4.8ohm
ESC Required: 250A
Input Voltage : 30~70V
Kv : 150 rpm/V
Weight: 2550g
Shaft: 10mm
Non Load Current: 17A


NSK skirt bearing:

12070-15-150-2.jpg
 
Well i just bought one on a whim, 6 left in stock. I wonder if they used NSK bearings through-out or just for the skirt? Nah i wouldn't be that lucky!

The 17a load current is a worry, but as Miles said, HK are a bit fuzzy on exact specs sometimes...

Apart from that, it should power a single spd setup quite nicely - watchout KiM!!! :mrgreen:

I'll post pics when it lands on the doorstep.




Paul :D
 
Miles said:
liveforphysics said:
That 17amp no-load current tells me something isn't right with it.
~800 Watts, before it does any useful work, would be disappointing. You can never trust the specifications on HK, though...

As posted:
Resistance: 4.8ohm
ESC Required: 250A
Input Voltage : 30~70V
Kv : 150 rpm/V
Weight: 2550g
Shaft: 10mm
Non Load Current: 17A

If past specification posting trends can be extrapolated to this specification, that suggests this is 150 kV 4.8 mOhm motor. Comparing to their 130 kV 27 mOhm motor, that sounds believable (Though a 5-6 times reduction in the resistance sounds like a lot).

I have no idea what controller would be used to power that low of a motor resistance. Even kelly seems to have some problems with sustained large motor currents, and I certainly wouldn't trust an RC controller to survive, as good as they are for higher motor resistances. Maybe an HV-160 would survive if you set-up the motor to limit the phase amps to 300 amps? According to my graphs, to do that at 50 volts would require limiting the battery current to less than 15-20 amps, lol (Which would kind of defeat the point of this thing's 8+ kW potential).
 
Agreed. If the resistance specs are even ball-parked, (one saying 4.8(m)Ohm, one saying 5mh? (henrys?), then this motor has lower phase resistance than an 24-fet infinion controller with IRFB4110's at operating temp. Depending on the inductance (for the dI/dT rate), starting from a stop with this bad-boy would hit you controller almost as hard as a pass-through event! lol :)

A poor little 6-fet infinion controller with 4110's at operating temp would be putting roughly 4x more energy into itself as heat than energy into the motor when trying to start this motor from a stop. :) (again, depends on inductance of course as well).
 
swbluto said:
If past specification posting trends can be extrapolated to this specification, that suggests this is 150 kV 4.8 mOhm motor.
Then this motor would have a resistance of 14.3mOhms.

Model: 80-80-10
Resistance: 14.3ohm
ESC Required: 200A
Input Voltage : 30~50V
Kv : 160 rpm/V
Weight: 1440g
Shaft: 8mm
Non Load Current: 6.5A
 
I see where you logic is coming from Miles, but in this case, I think it's just inconsistency in being wrong about everything to do with specs/data outside of things that can be measured with a caliper. lol.

Also, I retract the 15 poles comment. Appears to be 18 stator poles from the quicky line-overlay diagram I made.

I bought one. I told myself "No!" but then I couldn't resist...
 
Cool luke, some no-load current measurements would be awesome to have.

I could see someone running this if they split the windings in between six 12/18-fet controllers, or if they rewound it to something like 70 kV and split between 2 controllers (Or used phased limiting, which might also be usable in its current state. I wouldn't know that, not having tested phase limiting on something with as low a resistance as this.). However, they state there's a lot of balancing involved in manufacture so I'd be scared rewinding might mess that up (although, it shouldn't since it's not spinning?).
 
So we re-wind this Hog & order 6 HV160s???? :twisted: edit:(24teeth? wow thats 8 controllers LOL)
Is there another Rc controller that could run this behemoth...
This is practicly a shorter stator configuration of the Colasus if I am correct. & those look like the Kelly's are going to be favored.... who all has one inbound?

& the data posted at HK is wholely undependable.....there are several motors listed with wrong shaft sizes & posted with the wrong photo's.
 
etard said:
Nice! Truly a monster motor, but still only a 10mm shaft.

i took notice to the same thing. i would think that shaft would be larger because of the amount of power. i would think it would at least be bigger than the 80-100 motors. im excited though to see all of these monster rc motors come out. with the colossuss to come out then this? i wonder whats next? :twisted:
 
So, I wonder why no-one has pointed out the obvious.........

There is no shaft protruding out the mount side. That is something we need for belt or chain drive. This is the problem with the Plettenberg Predator........ :?

Matt
 
recumpence said:
So, I wonder why no-one has pointed out the obvious.........

There is no shaft protruding out the mount side. That is something we need for belt or chain drive. This is the problem with the Plettenberg Predator........ :?

Matt

I noticed it :D but would it really be problem :?: just run the output through a support bearing.
 
Matt,
I know a guy who makes custome shafts to fit applications, prolly no big deal :wink:

I am more concerned with controller set up....if this config lends itself to ABC series winding, it may be the perfect canidate for 6 sensorless controllers & sharing the load......we will soon find out me thinks.

who all here has one coming? There were 10 available at 11:30 am est. & there is 1 left as i type this....
I would be happy just getting my hands on the stators, The rest is really simple to fab up on a lathe..
 
Thud said:
who all here has one coming?
Luke and I it seems so far. Two were bought in the time it took me to buy mine so their going fast!


Would a higher rated Kelly or Lyen run this beast?




Paul :D
 
Miles said:
Thud said:
I would be happy just getting my hands on the stators, The rest is really simple to fab up on a lathe..
We need a supply of stator laminations.... My need is for 100mm diam, 60mm internal diam.


Uh Oh! Custom motor kit group buy?!!! :p

If things keep going the way they are, someday somebody is gonna be using the 80-100 to run the watercooling pump on a massive watercooled outrunner!! :lol:

But seriously, these giant motors are cool and all, but until a better controller is designed these motors are useless, right?

Here's a thought... What about a manual clutch that would allow the motor to spin up to a decent rpm, just like an ICE motor and then dump the clutch for a decent launch? Would the controller survive much better in this kind of scenerio? Since this thing is pretty much a motorcycle motor, why not treat it like one and just use the bottom end of a 125cc dirtbike? Why hasn't this been done yet? I know Frank G did it, but his is kinda a putter, and doesn't have lipo. Originally battery conservation was #1 concern, but now with cheaper, smaller, lighter lipos we can spend only $300 on the motor ( instead of $1500 etek) and spend the rest on battery. So you lose %10 in the gearbox, what you get is a clutch and gears, just throw 2 more bricks of lipo in and this concern goes away! Right?
 
recumpence said:
So, I wonder why no-one has pointed out the obvious.........

There is no shaft protruding out the mount side. That is something we need for belt or chain drive. This is the problem with the Plettenberg Predator........ :?

Matt
That should be able to be changed. The shaft on normal outrunner is attached to the bell with a grub screw, and can be slid back and fourth on the bell. I don't see how it would be much different on the monster.. Even if it was held in place by something other than a grub screw, a little machining would probably fix the problem.
 
Back
Top