Yeah thanks for the support guys.
I need to give my patreons some love they deserve!
But only send if you feel you really want to. As I have found my self full time self employed working very hard making great wages for the business. But as the page says parts and talent are welcome as well as this thing is not just about me its about moving something EPIC into a whole new realm of possibilities never thought of even 5 years ago!
As for driving the oem IGBTs you would NOT be looking to make much less power.... And because I have next to 0 data on them its a HUGE risk.
What I have leant is this is a lot of math to make sure things like dead time and over current and over voltage protection are in place and you need to see a data sheet for the part to make those work out properly.
I have a old ex friend who called me out saying this kit is shit and it will never last (its been running as a daily for 2 years now) he said all kinds of testing and what not needs to be done to prove it most of which I have already done. Well he is the same guy who suggested running 2 of the counterfeit IGBTs in parallel because they were not what they claimed... But here is the thing WHAT ARE THE SPECS IF THEY ARE FAKES???? I know at least 1 set of Counterfeit IGBTS were not rated for the 1200v claimed! As when I charged it up then tried to run them they blew up like 2 blocks from my shop....
What I am getting at is there is people making things go like the OEM Tesla powertrains and thats cool but the OEM control board is still running the controllers powerstage which has critical settings like dead time etc. Make sure you get the data to set it up right and you are golden. But having said that. The oem controller can't make as much power as mine
Its a set of 900amp at 25 degC rated IGBTs rated for 600 or 650Vdc Mine are 1200amp at 25degC and 1200v rated with slightly less voltage drop