If i compare the 5T 1500w leaf to something like the MXUS 3005, the 30mm MXUS put's out about an extra 35 rpm in the simulator
The narrower stator has a shorter length of wire in each turn, which affects the kV.
Do you know if all the benefits from this Leaf 1500W are applicable to the 1000W version as well?
The major difference in the Leafbike motors is that they use thinner laminations. If two motors that are almost identical are running side-by-side, with both having the same watts at the input...the motor with the thicker laminations will have more of the input watts converted to waste-heat, and doing results in slightly less power being converted to wheel-torque.
There has been a recent popularity of hubmotors using a thick aluminum stator support as a "sponge" for heat-spikes during acceleration. I like that, but it is heavier and more expensive. There is a place in this world for a high-efficiency hubmotor that is light and affordable. I highly recommend that anyone who buys a leafmotor should seriously consider adding ferro-fluid, and depending on the severity of the application, maybe even hubsinks.
One place where I feel a direct drive hubmotor is still relevant, is mounted in a 16/17-inch moped rim and driving a longtail cargobike. I think a 4T Leafbike (like that) with ferro-fluid would perform surprisingly well on hills.