Did you specify 7 speed? That's what your bike came with stock on the rear cluster.Philaphlous wrote:cal3thousand wrote:It's a standard 135mm dropout. Not many bikes have a smaller one and the larger 150mm is generally for downhill or other heavily suspended bikes. The leaf motor will fit and you will have room for that 7 speed freewheel. Did your motor come with a 7 speed freewheel? If not, reuse your old one, but you'll need a tool that can remove it from the old wheel.Philaphlous wrote:Hey guys!!!
So It took me this long to figure it out. I guess I bought a leaf motor. 1000w kit. I'm a bit worried now. I have an old trek 800 I'm planning on putting the hub motor on. I'm worried about the rear dropout width... Looks much wider to me on the motor than the bike. I don't have the bike yet mind you. So I'm looking to see if anyone knows the dropout width of the trek 800? Also, if it doesn't fit...which I have a feeling it won't...how do I go about widening the rear fork?
Awesome!!! Thank you! It sure looks wider but I wasn't sure. That makes me feel a heck of alot better. I'm not even getting the stock wheel so it'll have to be the freewheel from the kit...
This motor is going to be a hoot with the hubsinks and Ferrofluid on the wayneptronix wrote:For phase wires.. i have the first revision of the motor with something like 16 gauge as stock. I cut the phase wires about an inch out the axle and replaced the remainder with 12 gauge wiring to 4mm bullet connectors.
When i showed you folks what this motor was capable of at 6000W in the first pages, i had the 12 gauge wiring installed. The wires were not a heat bottleneck and were adequate for the ~80A i was pushing.
In short, i wouldn't worry too much about the phases. The new thicker ones should be fine even for wheelie popping power levels on a 4T.
That's a good match then, as far as battery (30A) and a 12 FET are concerned. Did you make sure to use some thermal putty on there?Philaphlous wrote:I believe my bike came with a 7 speed in the rear. I'm also planning on upgrading the wiring to 12awg all around. Unfortunately my home built battery is only going to be good for around 30A total so not a ton of power but still should be plenty for my 5mi one way commute... My kit came with a 12 fet controller. The controller is surpringly small. I added some thermal pads to make a much much better seal between the aluminum bar the fets are attached to and the actual casing. I'm looking forward to getting my bike here next week and hope to have it all hooked up in the next week or two.
Lol, never heard it called putty. Yes, I have some thermal paste on it but the pads are more to replace the paste because of the gap between the bar and frame. That should really increase thermal transfer over the stock paste.cal3thousand wrote:That's a good match then, as far as battery (30A) and a 12 FET are concerned. Did you make sure to use some thermal putty on there?Philaphlous wrote:I believe my bike came with a 7 speed in the rear. I'm also planning on upgrading the wiring to 12awg all around. Unfortunately my home built battery is only going to be good for around 30A total so not a ton of power but still should be plenty for my 5mi one way commute... My kit came with a 12 fet controller. The controller is surpringly small. I added some thermal pads to make a much much better seal between the aluminum bar the fets are attached to and the actual casing. I'm looking forward to getting my bike here next week and hope to have it all hooked up in the next week or two.
It should not matter what order the halls are in for the Adaptto to work.eflyersteve wrote:I just picked up an Adaptto mini e and am having little luck getting it to work with my 4t Leaf motor. I can run it in sensorless mode, but autodetect always fails and gives a hall error code. In the health monitor, when rotating the wheel forward, I see halls 1,2,3 in order. Sometimes it reports halls 1,5,6 for some reason (there are only 3 halls). I've swapped the phase wires around to (I think) all the positions and the current one gives the proper sequence when rotating the wheel by hand.
One thing I've noticed is that I only read about 4.1v between black and red of the controller (with or without the halls connected). This was a used controller and the hall plug was cut off and the wires all bundled under some heat shrink with the end of the insulation stripped (shorting out in various ways). Is 4.1v a good value or am I looking at a resistor change in the controller?
Apart from that, I would also grab an 'E-bike tester' like this:HallOffset, HallReverse, WireReverse – Three settings are responsible for setting up the correct orientation of the Hall sensors with respect to the phase conductors, as well as the reversal the motor phase conductors and Hall sensors. These settings are altered when “guessing” to find the correct phase and Hall wiring combinations. Determined automatically during the auto-tuning the motor.
This type of hallsensor doesn't switch voltage, it switches current, grounding or not grounding the signal output pin.eflyersteve wrote: It seems like all three are flaky - I apply 5v and when I pass a strong magnet over, I only get a small signal between gnd and the signal wire of each, but I get full switching between +5 and signal, but even this isn't consistent.
Try running 80 amps. 16AH multistar on your ~65A is probably sagging a lot already though. I would run 20AH or more on an amp hungry motor like this.eflyersteve wrote:I got it all sorted out (the wires inside the cable that enters the adaptto are not standard hall colors - blue wasn't connected to anything and I needed to use Orange). It auto detected and seems to work. Just not as impressive as I thought it would be.
Anyone running a 4t on an Adaptto mini-e (unlocked)? Interested in hearing some settings for decent acceleration. Perhaps I need to feed it more than 12s 16aH multistars?
it doesn't matter in terms of what? Especially wich direct drive the benefits are obvious like more torque and less noise.markz wrote:fussler - do you want sinewave?
Leaf is direct drive so it really doesnt matter, I wouldnt pay extra to have sinewave over trapezoidal.
Yep absolutely (regarding Justins bench tests with Phaserunner).markz wrote:If sine produces more torque as mentioned above thats news to me, I thought it doesnt do anything except smooother and silent. If you want that then spend extra on sine. To each their own.