Merlin wrote:1. if i push her with my raptor up to 50kph, regenerative braking kicks in....it starts slow (maybe from 46 kph) and kicks really hard in near 50kph.
she doesnt do anything. no throttle, no braking...just roll.
Took too long for me to find an answer to this question but I've seen this before personally. I am probably wrong and will probably write this wrong, but it seems that once you exceed a certain point in a motors RPM efficiency curve or something to that effect the motor will begin generating current and resist turning. It seems there is no way to stop this so far as I have found but it also seems that there isn't really a way to reject the incoming current when this happens (maybe there is for some controllers, none that I know of). Per http://kellycontroller.com/faqs.php
this page on the "how does regen works?" section.
"On the other hand, the controller can't buck down motor voltage. If motor running at too high speed and motor voltage is higher than battery voltage, it will charge battery automatically."
To say this another way, the motor will act as a generator when you exceed a certain RPM for various motors (not to say this is a strict controller based limit, but likely this RPM is based on the motor and it's windings) and you'll end up with an overcharged pack if caution isn't used (physically brake the motor if high voltage cutoff is approached or hope your BMS handles it).
climbing hills with a front motor sucks. but with a frockin speed throttle it sucks a bit more.
anyway. how can i explain....
i think anyone offroad biker know....if you go a really steep hill you have to let the throttle wide open.
if you close it, bike stops, you fall, roll back or cant start again at that point.
(now rethink this with a front motor)
Sounds like a stalled motor, maybe I misunderstand. Motor efficiency from a stop is basically zero, it's just a massive burst of power that is almost all converted into heat which is used to start a motor, I imagine there must be a way to change this setting, but I imagine that setting this setting high enough to start up a extremely steep hill from a stop would result in bikes flipping people onto their backs or at least often doing wheelies when on a flat. In otherwords, it's probably difficult to find a middleground for this idea that would work out ideally for all situations. I have no idea which setting actually changes this. Maybe I am really wrong about all this though, hah.
it you try to touch gently the throttle to prevent the wheel spinning and losing traction, there comes the point where you lose traction and the wheel spins.
not that real problem....wheel spin as hard as you can, dig the dirt and help me climbing that hill...go for it...
BUT when the wheel starts spinning, it pumps 3 or 4 times till it holds full throttle. that ends in a wild range of shimmy / handlebar switching directions.
sure, SHE is not that experienced rider. but i tested it alot also. no way. (on that same hill i can stop with my raptor and start gently again without any problems)
first thought ca limits something. so i opened all settings. no difference...
ok, maybe the Cycle analyst do something that i dont know.....so i disconnect it, and wired the throttle direct to the controller....
stay on ground on street, sure you can give full throttle. bike accelerate everthing is fine.
stay on lose ground. dirt, fallen leaves, give full throttle....wheel spins to full throttle, stops half a second, starts over ....3-4-5 times.
Could the 'speed err limit' or 'accel time' settings be the issue? I don't know what accel time means for sure, but I am guessing (truly) that it means an assumed amount of time for the motor to accelerate to a certain point over the course of 1 second, perhaps if this time was shortened or lengthened and you tried your slick path test again maybe you'd see a different result which might hint not only at what accel time means but also to a solution to this issue. Sorry for the speculation but nobody else was nipping at your question.
I am sure this part is obvious, but not a question mostly a comment. Different tires are obviously going to provide different results in traction for various situations, but some folks on this forum simply reject the idea of front wheel based hub motors because traction becomes a considerable issue due to the lack of pressure on the front portion of the bike, this becomes obviously more of an issue as you go up an incline.
Oh, and I just noticed there is a fault line that can be read, did you read this fault line when doing your test? Might be worth trying.
FluxZoom wrote:Anyone know if these KLS controllers can utilize a 3 speed switch similar to how an infineon controller does?
As I should have started with before asking here(shame on me), I sent Kelly an e-mail, the answer is no and they hold no interest in implementing such a feature. Personally I love the idea of a 3 speed switch for various reasons, I imagine it's useful for really high power applications where even fine throttle modulation doesn't work out ideally (loss of control) and for other applications where top speed is easy to set for whatever situation you happen to be in without holding any hint of risk of accidentally maxing out the throttle with a massive burst of speed/power, blah blah. To each their own I suppose.