i tested phase amps with a clamp ac current meter, and can confirm that those are correct. if the controller is rate for 200A, and you set max phase amps to 50% you will see 100A max phase. you're right with a very smooth power application which may be too sluggish for some (me included). on the other hand some welcome it, if the throttle is not too snappy and not controllable. with the kelly it's very easy to touch a stone, fallen tree etc with your front wheel, and apply just as much throttle to smoothly go over it. no bad suprises.charlesmcnall wrote:no burnouts, no wheelies, firmware crippled ramp rates even though the controller allows you to put settings in that should be faster. I am not sure of the phase amps but i'll shove my clamp meter on there and see what it peaks at.
you can use any $2 bluetooth dongle and program your controller on the road with any android device. very welcome to tune it.There is bluetooth with a cheap dongle you plug in.
This post makes me sold on buying a Kelly.izeman wrote:i tested the controller on my mid-drive bike. and i must say I'M SOOO HAPPY.
this controller REALLY ROCKS. it's SUPER POWERFUL, SUPER SILENT and SUPER SMOOTH! i couldn't ask for more. maybe it's too powerful for my motor, as 240A phase amps may burn the windings.
it was only a few km test ride, but it was enough to say, that this is BY FAR the best controller i ever had. after i removed the controller and connected the old kelly again i was really shocked about the motor noise. all i hear now is a very little noise that comes from the internal gears and chains. the motor itself may only contribute very little to the noise. now the bike is as it should always have been. i can ride through the forest and may be seen as a regular biker. before the bike had a very high pitched noise that was not nice.
i also noticed that the bike is as fast as NO LOAD speed. so with lifted rear wheel i get the same speed as on flat going WOT. but maybe i'm wrong. i will have to test again to verify that.
there still are some things to solve:
-) best battery/phase relation.
-) max phase current (battery current will be regulated by the CA profiles)
-) the motor doesn't stop if i release the throttle. it takes some time to come to a stand
-) going WOT on the bike stand (rear wheel lifted from the floor) makes the motor pump. so it revs up and down and up and down again. this may be some controller internal mechanism that stops current/rpm from overshooting, as it doesn't occur while riding.
and there are some paramters that i don't really understand and that are not explained in the manual. especially the last three are totally unclear.
no reason why it should not work. you just need an external shunt, as the kelly works differently.markz wrote:Can you hook up a CA to your smaller one?
I was debating whether to get one of these controllers but this made the decision for me. I definitely don't want to lose 15-20% off my top speed. That's huge for me.fany wrote:As the same goes,the max speed of KLS is lower than KEB or KBS. The speed is less about 15-20% than trapezoidal controller.izeman wrote:i did some more testing and comparing to the old trapezoid kelly controller.
as you can see the old controller runs at a higher rpm. and is around 15-20% faster at no load speed. changing max rpm, Kp and Ki parameter, Err rpm or anything else doesn't change a bit. and i have no idea else what to do. there is just nothing that you could adjust.
the KBS-X trapezoidal controllers also don't feature real torque throttle.Merlin wrote: Go for a older model with a torque throttle. The speed throttle sucks probably more then the square wave sound buzzing.
The last one is easy... the number of poles just changes the RPM calculation and is not used for anything else.DaDo.Bzz wrote:Guys, I have KLS7212S, I did auto hall setup. Can you help me with folowing behaviour, if you have experience.
1. Motor is not running smooth
2. On low throtle I can see some humming sound, but motor is not rotating
3. When I quick release throttle, sometimes it stop rotor quickly so whole motor moves other way
4. When I change number of poles in programming software to 10 or 12 (I have 8 pole motor) it just runs same. How come?
During autosetup it does not even spin, just jump some positions (looks like random). It does not change kp snd ki.
Heres video with quick rlease of throtle.
Splinter have you made any progress on that, would be nice.SplinterOz wrote: Yea one of the things I want to do soon is interprete the data stream from the serial out and setup a little display.
Sorry no... the my world has been a bit crazy of the last 6 months. I have learnt that over the serial you need to "ask" for the data (Fany from Kelly told me that), he also recommended that I use the Can-Bus output as that continuously streams the data.Emoto wrote:Splinter have you made any progress on that, would be nice.SplinterOz wrote: Yea one of the things I want to do soon is interprete the data stream from the serial out and setup a little display.