Well, how was the result?
First thing i noticed when following the "find the right hall and phase wire combo chart" was the motor stuck, what it did NOT DO before.
Before it was vibrating, but never stuck like usually hubmotors do when going through that procedure and the combo is wrong.
OK, so something MUST have changed in terms of signals or response characteristics.
When i removed the halls for grinding and brushing the stator surface, i broke one of the foils with conduction path from the small board to the sensor.
I than repaird that connection by soldering wires to the sensor. It could be that this wasn't optimal because one or more of the three wires where now located much closer to the windings which could have distorted the signal quality.
This tells us if a LED blinks on a cheap "multifunctional motor testing device", it doesn't mean that much..
Now to the test run:
I was making a 50km long bike tour with other e-bikers so i could test many conditions.
First i noticed that it really cannot take much abuse in terms of phase current. It overheats still very quick when pumping more than 50-60A, so i set up the PV controller for 30A batt and 50A phase for the tour.
This was about 2500W of input power at an average battery voltage of 85V.
When going full throttle on the flat, the temperature did stop to climb after acceleration at an input power of about 2000W continuously at a speed of about 65kmh.
So it can do more than 2000W at high RPM which isn't bad for a 4kg DD motor pushing 125kg (45kg vetor bike + myself).
When climbing hills at 15kmh with the other ebikers, i was able to go up very long 12% grades (about 350 meter height in total without stop at 5km distance), BUT that was at only 500-800W of input power with the setting of 50A phase current. I needed to control the throttle very carefully, because even two seconds with too much throttle already led instantly to 10°C more stator temperature. The response of the thermistor on the windings is very quick. On hills or during harder acceleration it follows the twist of the throttle.
I don't know how accurate the PV controller controls the phase amps, but if it is not far off, than the 50A are absolutely the limit for this motor in terms if you want to use it longer than 20seconds before it overheats. The stator + axle has less than 2,3kg of mass so there is almost no heat sponge for more phase amps.
One ebiker was riding the eZee powerd bike i built last year so we did accerlation tests, watched the temperature and such things.
That bike had 27,5" wheels (more than 30% larger as the wheel of my D-motor).
The input power was limited to 1600W and topspeed was about 45kmh (it is 6T motor).
When accelerating side by side, the eZee with it's 1600W of input power was accelerating exactly as quick as the D-motor bike with 2500W of input power (total weight bike + rider also was similar in this case). After 30-35kmh the D-motor was better in acceleration.
The eZee did not go above 60°C while the D-motor was often hitting the 100-110°C.
This shows up that even a very optimized 4kg DD motor cannot keep up in terms of torque when compared with 4kg geared motors like the eZee.
But at higher RPM's, or above 30kmh in my case it really comes to life.
It can take 2000W easy in this condition with stable temps.
What i also noticed was the much better handling and suspension characteristics compared to the MXUS 3k in 24" wheel which was installed before on that bike.
With the D-motor it feels simila to a middrive and bumps and the quick stuff get ironed out really well now from the suspension.
the wheel stays on the ground much better, even if it is much smaller.
Aside from the lower weight, the centered spokes may also help in terms of handling and comfort.
What i plan to do is a test for saturation as i think this happens quite early on this motor.
Guys, do you think it is accurate enough to let the bike push against a vertical placed bathroom scale and going up with phase current in steps? I would let the windings cool down each step.