Show off your lebowski controller

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Inspired by the Your Creation's Before & After Pics thread which has a large picture based before and after, I thought It would be interesting and informative to see what people have done using the Lebowski Chip.

To this end I am proposing that people who have created a Lebowski based controller post pictures of their creations and include any information and link with help demo there experiences.

preferred format for the post here..

1. pictures of the controller
2. pictures and/or description of what the controller is powering, bike/car/motorbike/plane/surfboard...?
3. link (if available) to owners build thread
4. components used
5. spec of the power output
6. any other details.

Id like to see projects even if they are incomplete, you can always edit the post later when you finish your project. I have sold many Lebowski through hole pcbs and I am sure there are many more out there who didn't buy a Lebowski pcb from me. I always try to encourage those who bought a pcb from me to do a build thread but never see them. I think this could be an inspiring and useful thread if those who can pitch in.
 

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here are some pics of my lebowski controller. design is by user animalector from australia. he also was so kind to source all the parts, solder all parts and test it. then he sent me the controller.
i then changed the FETs, as they may have been fake copies, and i swapped the current sensor for bigger ones (150A).
the controller changed three times, and i guess i now have the final design. all cases are black powder coated and have cooling fins. the controller is mounted low down on the frame, and gets some fresh breeze of air. even with 150A phase amps and a total power up to 3kW with single 4468 FETs it never got hot. maybe just a bit more than hand warm. so the design and efficiency must be excellent.
i struggled a bit with the 5V power supply. using little chips with only around 100mA max current they blew. so andy designed a new daughter board and all is fine since then.
 

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Lebowski said:
And if I'm correct you're running a mid-drive MAC with field weakening and crazy high erpms ?
paahhh. whatever you call "crazy high" ;). it's a bit higher than nominal rpm. :lol: and it's amazing what sound you can get from a straight geared mid drive at 3.000rpm. i try not to overdue it though. normally i limit it to a reasonable speed.
 
I'm deeply impressed by these nice outcomes... my own attempts are quite embarrassing :oops: .
DSC_0107_brain_and_powerstage_v1_small.jpg
But even if I failed up to now and the controller is still not placed in a bike, I'm following everything around lebowski's controller.
Part of my old efforts are visible in the 'New Lebowski disciple' thread https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=63572&hilit=new+lebowski+disciple&start=25
I'm not giving up, even if it may take years I know that 'some day' lebowski's brain will work in my bike and in my motorcycle :!:
Maybe I'm a good candidate to buy something ready made, e.g. whereswallys efforts based on bobc.
 
If you see this, you understand why I'm stuck... inability to solder. I don't have the education, skills, instruments etc.
The idea of the design probably wouldn't be bad, very close to lebowski's powerstage proposal.
DSC_0104_powerstage_v1_failed_lo.jpg
This attempt just fell apart, so I bought some MTI 85 6-pack chips and tried to solder the wires directly to the legs. Well... the chip is now toasted. I'm definitely a candidate for whereswally's/bobc's vision of a tiny brain connected to a MTI 145wx100gd powerstage, all fitting in a bicycle frame.
 
well, your soldering doesn't look too good. that's correct ;)
but it doesn't look bad enough to fall apart!!! i don't want to go into detail now, and start a new off topic discussion. i guess it might be low quality solder and/or wrong temperatures or too weak soldering iron.
maybe if you open a new thread we can help and solve that for you. just post the link here, so we can stay on topic, and follow up somewhere else?!
 
well, your soldering doesn't look to good. that's correct ;)
but it doesn't look bad enough to fall apart!!! i don't want to go into detail now, and start a new off topic discussion. i guess it might be low quality solder and/or wrong temperatures or too weak soldering iron.
maybe if you open a new thread we can help and solve that for you. just post the link here, so we can stay on topic, and follow up somewhere else?!
 
emmgee said:
If you see this, you understand why I'm stuck... inability to solder.

Emmgee, first things first... whats the EEVBLOG videos on how to solder (they should help a loy, and I'm sure there are other good videos.

Second, as the videos should mention, having good equipment can really help... and just using the right tip for the job does wonders. I'm currently using a Hakko FX-951 which isn't bad at all... but about to build a UniSolder 5.2 (Got extra boards if you wanna try to build one... tho a lot of small SMD soldering to get it done.. tho it;s good practice). I'm building it so I can get a few different JBC attachments.... one of the larger HD handles (I think it's a the 470 model) as well as one of the small precision handles (less important TBH)... and since I;ve been doing more SMD work... I really wanna get a pair of the JBC micro tweezers. All 3 are supported on the UniSolder, among a ton of other handles from a number of brands. I also grabbed a Hakko FR-300 desolder AIO... which is awesome.. tho not generally required... AND almost forgot, just got a hot air rework station... I have no complaints about he one I got, and HFS 959D, which was only $50 on amazon, you can find similar models even cheaper on ebay. It can be very useful for rework... especially removing large amounts of solder without cooking the board/components that badly.

Anyway, if you don't want to spend much money, and don't wanna build your own station (UniSolder)... depending on what you currently have... if it;s a total garbage iron... the TS100 is highly recommended by people. It's $50... insanely small and portable... and has some really amazing reviews. Many people with significantly more expensive stations still bought one for it's portability, and swear by it's ability. So it's a great, cheap, ready to go solution if you don't already have something good.... and tips are def pretty cheap for it.

I will say, watching the videos and know the right way to do things is by far the most important... then having just a little practice of doing the right thing helps... as well as the right equipment. But you def don't need everything I listed in order to be able to solder well.
 
Thanks for the tips progrock, I will check out these videos! Sorry to be a bit out of topic, but:
One of the biggest soldering problems is to connect a fat wire (like 10AWG silicone multistrand) to a chip leg (like current sensor or MTI 85 6-fet chip). With a 48W-Weller the wire is sucking away the heat, heating too long destroys the chips. Looks like I need a stronger iron.
Experts recommendations for min. power of the iron? Intelligent soldering procedure?
 
I only have a 50W iron, temp regulated by a magnet in the tip. A bigger tip gets hotter for some reason, probably due to different magnetic properties. I do need to hold it for quite long, 10 to 20 seconds easy, for the big parts to heat up enough.

Also, check your solder. I once by accident bought 'HMP' solder which gave really crappy results. Turns out HMP stands for High Melting Point.... 30 chf out the window as the stuff is unusable with my iron.
 
Emmgee, Lebowski pretty much covered it.... but I'll just explain a tiny bit more (really just repeating him). Number 1, the temp regulated tip.. you'll find this in all the good hakko, JBC, etc. as well as the TS100 I mentioned that is only $50, and vert small/portable (BUT you need a good power pack to power it.... It may "work" with a 5v 500mA power adapter... but you really need something like a 19v Laptop charger that has decent amps.... this is usually something most people have in a drawer somewhere...). And as for Watts... that's one part that's a little strange.. tho may partially due with BS specs from cheap manufacturers. Theoretically a higher wattage should help a lot... but a LOW watt temp regulated JBC has been known to work when something with 5 times the watts didn't. My point being, you can't trust the manufacturer's marketing departments, at least not these cheap/low-end ones... Hakko is generally considered the cheap brand for good quality.... JBC being the industry standard (I've had real good luck with my Hakko FX-951... but about to build a unisolder to get some JBC handles).... BUT the TS100 literally has soo many people raving about it for it's price... many of these people owning JBC stations (they don't say it's better than JBC.... BUT if they're used to a JBC and still like the TS100.. it's gotta be decent).

Second, a larger tip in that situation is going to really help... and I sure hope it goes without saying, you need flux!!... there's no point in soldering without flux, it's cheap, and works magic (and while many/most good solder has a flux core... it still is so much more helpful having a flux pen and and maybe some paste). On the note of solder... you need to get a good brand... it's cheap enough anyway, but getting a no name $2-5 brand is just wasting your time... and DO NOT get the 60/40 shit... get 63/37... and I recommend having 2 different sizes... tho having VERY thin solder is much more important than having thick stuff. You need to have at least 1 roll of <0.5mm solder... 0.4 mm (0.015") is a solid choice. I use my 0.4 stuff 90% of the time... and have a rolled of 0.8mm for larger/messier stuff. If you ever solder SMD stuff, having some 0.4 (or anything under 0.5) is literally going to make it 50 times easier, and will make your soldering look so much better. When I was recommended that, it totally changed the quality of my work instantly. And get a good brand... Kester is probably the easiest to find at a decent price, tho there are others, I think Multicore is also coveted, but a little pricier, and people usually say their Kester is as good. It's also good to have a good brand of solder wick for cleaning up mistakes (Goot wick seems to be a favorite... I found some REALLY cheap on ebay.. bought from a few different stores for under $2 each... still waiting to receive it, not sure if it's gonna be real or not, but probably will do the job). If you wanna go a step further, get a cheap air station (the cheap ones are easy to find for $40-60)... I know a lot of people will say you need to invest more in a better one, and if you are serious about it, you do... but jsut for an additional tool for a hobbyist, a $50 will get most jobs done... and can help a lot when it comes to rework especially, considering you're not cooking the board with the tip of an iron on it for minutes.

But for the most part....a temp regulated (Ideally a good brand, or the TS100, which is actually open source), large tip (and not a completely round conical), good brand of 63/37 solder, and some flux.... that's what you need to do what you are trying to do.

If you need to get a better iron, and for some reason don't want the TS100 (seriously, check out the reviews on major forums like eevblog if you don't believe me)... there are other "cheap" options that aren't half bad. You can get a fake hakko handle and fake T15 tips... definitely not as good as the real thing, and won't last as long... but they are really cheap, and are temp regulated, and do work (tho prob gonna cost you more than the TS100). A real Hakko is still "cheap" compared to most others good brands.... and unloiek the real garbage stuff (and the fakes), a tip will last you YEARS (will also cost 35-50 easily), I've never replaced any of my tips on my Hakko FX-951, and it's been a few years, and def don't need to. But considering how cheap the fake ones are, and that they still get the job done, you could probably buy a pack of 15 for the price of 1, have a few options, and replace them a few times without spending much. I personalyl have a real hakko, and will be getting real JBC handles/tips (not a real unit tho).... but I did just order a fake hakko and a bunch of tips for a portable one that's to bring/lend to friends, etc. There is actually also a fake JBC station, that apparently an almost perfect copy... tho it costs I think something like $250-270... and if you were to replace the handle with a real JBC, add another $60+.... then something like $30+ per a tip (the real handle does not come with a tip at $60.... but $60 is a steal for the handle)

Anyway... I think you probably get my point. Watching those videos will help a ton... and you don't need to spend a fortune... the basics will do... but the more you plan on using it, the more worth it to get something good... you won't regret it.
 
i'll throw my 2c worth of support behind the ts100. heats up so quick I turn it off more regularly than i would a normal iron - and has an auto off if it doesn't sense it being used for an extended period which is great if you forget it from time to time, works on anything 12v to (i think) 32v, full temperature adjustment (can be used for molding thermal plastic at 100C for instance). Only other 'iron' i use now is a 1kw resistance solderer i built for soldering heavy gauge (10G+) wire and connectors. TS100 will do it better than other irons I have but 1kw is 1kw... near instant melting of solder, and no time for the heat to escape from the area being soldered.

But yea... get a ts100. great units. Get a fat tip for it, so its got some thermal mass, that should help soldering the larger stuff, and run it at at least 24v, as the heating power is dependent on the voltage (higher voltage = higher power).
 
I use a Hakko 936. I've had it for years. I bought a bunch of tips back when I first bought it and I've soldered many thousands of connections with it. I bet, I've melted 10 pounds of solder with it over the years. I've never replaced any of the tips or had any issues with the solder station. It gets hot enough to melt aluminum weld rods and has enough wattage to solder 6 awg wires.

Hakko%20936.jpg


I have boards and MCU's now. I'll start getting components together soon.

Boards%20and%20MCUs.jpg
 
That's why I love ES: I learned so much in a very short time thanks to your tips and the videos. I definitely need bigger chisel-stile soldering tips, finer solder and a flux pen. And this T100 looks very tempting, although with a fatter chisel tip for my 48W Weller things could change a lot. I hope this motivates others to join the lebowski-movement, maybe even SMD-style...
Very much looking forward to whereswally's and lebowski's new powerboard design!
 
emmgee said:
That's why I love ES: I learned so much in a very short time thanks to your tips and the videos. I definitely need bigger chisel-stile soldering tips, finer solder and a flux pen. And this T100 looks very tempting, although with a fatter chisel tip for my 48W Weller things could change a lot. I hope this motivates others to join the lebowski-movement, maybe even SMD-style...
Very much looking forward to whereswally's and lebowski's new powerboard design!

Are you needing to solder at some remote location or at your bench? A portable soldering iron has it's place for quick repiars, but trust me on this, it will never replace a real solder station. I looked at the TS100 and it does look interesting, but I seriously doubt it will have the wattage needed to solder large objects like 6 or 8 awg wire or a big slab of copper. Also, the TS100 looks like it replaces the entire heating element and possibly other major components to replace a tip. A real solder station replaces just the inexpensive tip. I don't know how long the exposed tip portion is, but you want a long comfortable handle and a shorter exposed tip section so that you maximize stability and comfort while soldering. The TS100 looks like the handle is too short and the exposed heated portion is too long. This will make for clumsy and uncomfortable soldering. If you are looking for a single soldering iron for regular use, will solder just about anything, will last a life time and that you can use for hours at a time...save your money and get a real solder station. It happens that I'll have soldered for a while and forget that I left my Hakko on. Days will pass and I'll go over to my desk and see the LED flash that it is up to temp and then realize that 4 or 5 days have passed since I soldered last. What a waste of electricity! But no harm is done to the soldering iron and the handle is still cool after days of sitting there cooking for no reason. I seriously doubt the TS100 will run and run for days and days without overheating or outright failing. Get a set of tips for a Hakko and you won't regret the purchase. Regarding soldering iron tips for EV and electronics use, there are 2 that I consider critical and another that sees use from time to time. You want a big tip...something like 1/8" to 3/16" wide and flat for soldering large things like wires and bullet connectors and to copper. You want a 1/16" wide flat tip for soldering most things like the through hole Lebowski boards. Then you want a long, round and pointed tip for those tiny places. Keep in mind that a pointed tip won't transfer heat very well so they are inadequate for general soldering, but sometimes space is really tight and you don't have a choice. I have probably 25 tips of various kinds for my Hakko and these 3 are all I ever use. Get a real solder station. You won't regret the cost or flexibility that it gives you when you literally never need to replace it or ever need another soldering iron again.

BTW...the TS100 warms up to 752F. My Hakko reaches 900F. There are times when that extra heat comes in real handy! I can solder aluminum rod with my Hakko. The TS100 will never get hot enough for this use. On 24 volts, it's supposedly rated for 65 watts. I seriously doubt that's true, but I can tell you for a fact that the 65 watts max of my 936 is conservative. I think the Hakko FX-888 is the current iteration or replacement for my 936...not that it is showing any signs of ever quitting after 10 years of use!

Here's a decent video of the TS100...and he shows that it's really 50 watts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEEaLMv6dog
 
now that this thread is as offtopic as possible it will throw in my 2c as well.
@electricgod: you're right. the ts-100 will never solder #6 or #8 wire. it's just too weak for it, and the tip mass is too small, so it will cool off too quickly. other than that's it's a perfect little iron.
on the other hand your wrong in your assumptions about the power consumption. the ts-100 is the fastest up to temp iron i've ever seen. it really takes only seconds to go up to 400°C. and because it can do this it also has a super clever power saving feature. fully configurable. you can let it cool down any time you like. pick it up and it will heat up again, and it will be at target temperature when you are touching the pcb/wire ...
so will it replace any iron? no. i have special iron for special task. ts-100 is super for on-the-road / away-from-workbench soldering and smaller jobs, my combined soldering/hot air station is the best for allround jobs, then i have another soldering only station with 60w heating element and a super heavy tip for big wires, and several smaller irons for anything else :)
 
izeman said:
now that this thread is as offtopic as possible it will throw in my 2c as well.
@electricgod: you're right. the ts-100 will never solder #6 or #8 wire. it's just too weak for it, and the tip mass is too small, so it will cool off too quickly. other than that's it's a perfect little iron.
on the other hand your wrong in your assumptions about the power consumption. the ts-100 is the fastest up to temp iron i've ever seen. it really takes only seconds to go up to 400°C. and because it can do this it also has a super clever power saving feature. fully configurable. you can let it cool down any time you like. pick it up and it will heat up again, and it will be at target temperature when you are touching the pcb/wire ...
so will it replace any iron? no. i have special iron for special task. ts-100 is super for on-the-road / away-from-workbench soldering and smaller jobs, my combined soldering/hot air station is the best for allround jobs, then i have another soldering only station with 60w heating element and a super heavy tip for big wires, and several smaller irons for anything else :)

Maybe I've relegated the TS100 to much? I forget what it was or who made it, but I had a 12 volt soldering iron a long time ago and it was horrible. It took forever to warm up and would barely solder small connections. I finally tossed it in the trash. You could say I've been burned by crappy portable irons. Maybe I should get one of these things. I've been using a real solder station of some kind since the mid 80's. I'm very comfortable with this kind of device and how well they work. I've done what you describe too for personal soldering...that is until I bought myself a solder station (Hakko 936) and then I have never used the 6 or 8 other soldering irons I already had since.

Yeah...this is off topic, but this thread IS about building your own controller...so a good soldering tool is an important aspect of building a controller.
 
Let's see if we can't get this back on topic :D

Just starting my development. Essentially 150v 20Kw motor driver I am not entirely sure what I am doing, But there is so much info on endless sphere.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=91723

just in the designing stage.
WorkInProgress.PNG
 
Thanks Bradley, was wondering whether I was the only one noticing that the thread was way way off topic.

Dear MODs please could you create a new thread called "Soldering and the gear you need to do it" and take the last few posts back to where ES member emgee is showing off the powerboard section pic upto not including Bradley K's post before mine.

Electricgod had a single post in there which way half on topic and half off (which if it could be cut in half should keep the relevant stuff and put the other bit in the new soldering thread.

Much appreciated. This whole thread is supposed to be pics and specs of Lebowski projects. Thanks for your consideration.
 
Hello from Siberia, my controller for paramotor on a chip Lebowski

1is171r.jpeg
rc2n2h.jpeg
ywlje6.jpeg
14x9xtf.jpeg
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkvXM_fDPyk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nFVxQGkI4U
 
Great job, Alexey!
Lots of work on that power module.
Excellent decoupling on the Mosfets, and I like your busbars made from copper sheet.
What motor are you using?
 
The long-term power was 10 kW at a voltage of 100 V, the limiting factor is the current sensors. The engine is self-made, based on HPD10
r8fsv2.jpeg
145kfmk.jpeg
 
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