Julez wrote: ↑
Mar 09, 2018 2:06 pm
1) Can I modify the S06S to accept 48V?
That depends on why it's a 24/36v controller.
If it is because of an HVC in the controller, then no, unless you can program that.
If it is because of FETs or capacitors or other parts, then you'd have to replace those with parts that can take your maximum voltage (plus some percentage of tolerance).
If it is because of the low-voltage regulator, then maybe. For that, if it's just the resistor, then you can change that to a higher resistance proportional to the existing resistance and expected voltage, so that the resistor "absorbs" more of the voltage across it and less has to be handled by the low-voltage regulator.
If it's a switching regulator rather than linear, it probably doesnt' have the input resistor, and you are probably stuck with the range it's specified for. (putting a resistor in frotn may not work because it may not draw a constant current at a specific voltage the same way, so the resistor wouldn't prevent overvoltage on the input side).
2) What difference does the magnet number of the PAS make?
More magnets generally means a smoother detection of pedalling, and quicker response of the system to changes in pedal speed.
6) What would happen if I connected a full throttle signal permanently to the throttle input via a voltage divider or something?
Except for power-on, then it would always run the motor at a constant speed (if it's a speed control throttle) or constant pwoer (if it's a power control throttle).
But at power on, the controller probably checks for stuck throttle, so if the throttle is not "off" when powered on, it will probably disable the controller until that error doesnt' happen.
As I wrote above, I would like to limit my power to 250W by limiting the current to 5A. But the C5 parameter only allows the current to be limited to 1/2 the controller rating which would be 25A/2=12.5A here.
I don't know about the settings, so someone else will have to chime in on that.
But if there is no other way to do it, then you can modify the shunt inside the controller, if it uses multiple shunt wires. If it only uses one, that's harder but still possible. This is a last-ditch sort of way of doing it, so try other things first.
If it has two shunt wires, you can desolder one of them and that cuts the current the controller will provide by half. (because now it thinks that half current is full current). The displays and readouts will all be wrong for A and W because of that, showing twice what it actually is, however.
If it only has one shunt wire, you'd have to either replace that with a higher resistance one, or you'd have to physically shave the shunt down to a narrower diameter somewhere along it's length to increase it's resistance. THat would require using an external wattmeter and known load, so you can watch the meter until it reads whatever you want it to actualy be.