TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

[dameri]

I have 36V and 250W motor.

Menu 9:2 standstill and pedals horizontal 40
Driving without assist and light power 55- 57 at start 67

[thineight]

I have 36V and 250W motor.

Menu 9:2 standstill and pedals horizontal 40
Driving without assist and light power 55- 57 at start 67

Interesting, compared to mine the absolute values are different but the delta is similar (17 in your case Vs 20 for light pedaling and 27 Vs 30 for higher torque).

I'm curious on how buba intends to utilize these info..

[dameri]

I have 36V and 250W motor.

Menu 9:2 standstill and pedals horizontal 40
Driving without assist and light power 55- 57 at start 67

Interesting, compared to mine the absolute values are different but the delta is similar (17 in your case Vs 20 for light pedaling and 27 Vs 30 for higher torque).

I'm curious on how buba intends to utilize these info..

Do you have same motor as I have? I think values may be different if motor power changes.
I checked readings few times.

[thineight]

I have 36V and 250W motor.

Menu 9:2 standstill and pedals horizontal 40
Driving without assist and light power 55- 57 at start 67

Interesting, compared to mine the absolute values are different but the delta is similar (17 in your case Vs 20 for light pedaling and 27 Vs 30 for higher torque).

I'm curious on how buba intends to utilize these info..

Do you have same motor as I have? I think values may be different if motor power changes.
I checked readings few times.

I have the 36v too.
I think the reading at rest is just the number from the torque sensor, not dependant on the motor type. Also the "work" reading, being taken at assistance 0, should be independent from the motor voltage.. maybe just the actual gear and the internal friction can vary the number.

I guess buba would like to understand the reading range to see if the resolution is sufficient..

[dameri]

I have 36V and 250W motor.

Menu 9:2 standstill and pedals horizontal 40
Driving without assist and light power 55- 57 at start 67

Interesting, compared to mine the absolute values are different but the delta is similar (17 in your case Vs 20 for light pedaling and 27 Vs 30 for higher torque).

I'm curious on how buba intends to utilize these info..

Do you have same motor as I have? I think values may be different if motor power changes.
I checked readings few times.

I have the 36v too.
I think the reading at rest is just the number from the torque sensor, not dependant on the motor type. Also the "work" reading, being taken at assistance 0, should be independent from the motor voltage.. maybe just the actual gear and the internal friction can vary the number.

I guess buba would like to understand the reading range to see if the resolution is sufficient..

Okay, I was just quessing. I don't understand very much electric motor technic. I think too buba understand, because he asked readings.
I check values again today.

[buba]

I have 36V and 250W motor.

Menu 9:2 standstill and pedals horizontal 40
Driving without assist and light power 55- 57 at start 67

Thank you very much, dameri!

So far we have:

Standstill/ADC pedal torque sensor

thineight: 48-49
dameri: 40
buba: 51

StartUpTorque/ADC pedal torque sensor

thineight: 78
dameri: 67
buba: 82

RidingTorque/ADC pedal torque sensor

thineight: 70-71
dameri: 55-57
buba: 75

I am most interested in the StandStill value. It is the only one that can be compared between different users. The other values only give an indication of typical values as they naturally have large variations. But data is king so I value your feedback highly! Thanks! I know it was tricky.

[buba]

I guess buba would like to understand the reading range to see if the resolution is sufficient..

Correct. Want to make a complete model of the torque sensor and am just testing typical min/medium/max. Possible improvements in the future:

* Error code if user has applied torque during startup.

* Error code if there is a broken torque sensor or with limited resolution.

* For users that have disabilities it is maybe more convenient to have a calibration function instead of calibration during power up.

* Increase resolution and account for non-linearity. This creates a better feeling when riding, even a better response. Bonus: More accurate human power.

* Able to have a smoother start with faster motor engagement without compromising safety.

Not promising anything but just wanted to fully explain why I inquired some values. This is maybe not a priority. But later on this will be one of many ways we can improve the system even more.

[buba]

A new beta soon to be released!

I had some time today to make the last changes and have already submitted the Pull Request. As usual, Casainho will review the changes and then release the beta for the community.

Changes:

* Have rewritten the button code for the entire system. No more bugs. If there are bugs it is very simple to sort out and change behavior now. Button logic for the user is still the same but faster and should be really solid. Much easier to adjust parameters and create new button events.

* Another benefit with the new button code is that we have gained memory space in the KT-LCD3. Biggest space gain from a "single" change so far!

* We have Street Mode now with simpler logic of operation.

* Possible to disable the throttle when in Street Mode.

* More space, less processing and better layout on the controller firmware.

* Overall changes in how the numbers are shown and so on. Better and more consistent experience throughout.

I have tried to make this version the absolute best so far, by a margin! And this will hopefully be very close to the stable version 0.19.0!

Here is the updated wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

[dameri]

A new beta soon to be released!

I had some time today to make the last changes and have already submitted the Pull Request. As usual, Casainho will review the changes and then release the beta for the community.

Changes:

* Have rewritten the button code for the entire system. No more bugs. If there are bugs it is very simple to sort out and change behavior now. Button logic for the user is still the same but faster and should be really solid. Much easier to adjust parameters and create new button events.

* Another benefit with the new button code is that we have gained memory space in the KT-LCD3. Biggest space gain from a "single" change so far!

* We have Street Mode now with simpler logic of operation.

* Possible to disable the throttle when in Street Mode.

* More space, less processing and better layout on the controller firmware.

* Overall changes in how the numbers are shown and so on. Better and more consistent experience throughout.

I have tried to make this version the absolute best so far, by a margin! And this will hopefully be very close to the stable version 0.19.0!

Here is the updated wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

Nice work again buba

[thineight]

A new beta soon to be released!

I have tried to make this version the absolute best so far, by a margin! And this will hopefully be very close to the stable version 0.19.0!

Here is the updated wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

Great buba
Looking forward to try that out!
Hope you sorted also the off-road mode key combination that was reading also tho ON and DOWN button pression individually.

[buba]

A new beta soon to be released!

I have tried to make this version the absolute best so far, by a margin! And this will hopefully be very close to the stable version 0.19.0!

Here is the updated wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

Nice work again buba

Thank you, dameri! Hope you like it!

A new beta soon to be released!

I have tried to make this version the absolute best so far, by a margin! And this will hopefully be very close to the stable version 0.19.0!

Here is the updated wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

Great buba
Looking forward to try that out!
Hope you sorted also the off-road mode key combination that was reading also tho ON and DOWN button pression individually.

Thanks thineight!

That was one of the reasons I rewrote the button code. Was really hard to guess what button event to flag/clear and at what time to make it work perfectly. Timing problems throughout if a button event clearing is missed. Button events could end up not being registered. Or in the case you mention, too many events are registered. This happens very often when projects grow more complicated and you need to add more functionality to core functions. The core functions need to evolve as well and this time we had to evolve the button action management.

New button code:
- no local clearing,
- no timing,
- low execution time,
- better suited for 8 bit,
- easier to change button action times,
- easier to add new button events,
- smaller, more modular and simpler code,
- anyone can easily change the system behavior without much effort
- automatically resets every cycle so new button events are never missed, no need to power cycle

[Grisha_lv]

Just some testing on the inverse ramp factor to reduce lag

Hello,
I'm new to this forum. I just installed and flushed Kt-lcd3 with my TSDZ2. I also experience this lag which you have mentioned before and would love to fix if but I don't now how. I already checked WiKi and watched your video about it and still didn't figure it out.
It it's not too much to ask could you please step by step guide me what exactly I have to do.
How to compile?
How to flash if back to the controller?

P. S. I really like your videos about installing and flashing Kt-lcd3 with TSDZ2.

[casainho]

New beta version with the changes previous announced by Buba:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... 19.0-beta8

[andrea_104kg]

just flashed version 19.8
Everything went well without any errors at the first flash
Tried only 300 meters near home for the arrival of the night.
- There is no resistance to backward anymore, I didn't care much about it, but that's fine
- There is no more the annoying leap forward if I kept my foot on the pedals and this is beautiful
- the attack and the detachment are immediate as always.
- reversed off-road - legal or street mode compared to 18.2, but it's just a matter of habit.
I would say that the 19.8 version for LCD03 now has a level of maturity equal to commercial softwares.
Strangely, after the flash I didn't configure anything, the old parameters were still present, n ° levels, battery capacity, etc. Possible?
Also because I tried to enter the configuration menu but the new menu logic is completely illogical for me and I didn't understand anything from the brief test done.
For now very happy even if the test was too short ...

[thineight]

Here is the updated wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

Buba, since the street-offroad is now inverted, I guess there is a typo in the new wiki. In fact at menu 0-2 the wiki asks to input the max legal speed, which instead should be the max off-road speed as the legal speed is set in menu 8, isn't it?

[buba]

just flashed version 19.8
Everything went well without any errors at the first flash
Tried only 300 meters near home for the arrival of the night.
- There is no resistance to backward anymore

Yes, Casainho solved it, nice to not longer work against the motor!

- There is no more the annoying leap forward if I kept my foot on the pedals and this is beautiful
- the attack and the detachment are immediate as always.
- reversed off-road - legal or street mode compared to 18.2, but it's just a matter of habit.
I would say that the 19.8 version for LCD03 now has a level of maturity equal to commercial softwares.

Great!

Strangely, after the flash I didn't configure anything, the old parameters were still present, n ° levels, battery capacity, etc. Possible?

Very possible and should be that way if coming from a recent version!

Also because I tried to enter the configuration menu but the new menu logic is completely illogical for me and I didn't understand anything from the brief test done.

This a common feeling when encountering the new logic for the first time. Please let me know if I need to clarify it some more anywhere or if there are any bugs.

* To enter the Configuration Menu, press and hold UP and DOWN buttons
* To navigate between different sub menus press either the UP or DOWN button
* To enter a sub menu, press the ONOFF button
* To exist a sub menu, press and hold the ONOFF button
* To navigate inside the sub menu press either the UP or DOWN button
* To change a variable inside the sub menu, press the ONOFF button and then increase or decrease the value with the UP or DOWN button
* To stop changing the variable, press and hold the ONOFF button

TIP: Whatever you are changing will be blinking to indicate that it is possible to change with the UP or DOWN button.

I know it might be difficult to understand at first. But I promise that it will be logical after some testing!

For now very happy even if the test was too short ...

Here is the updated wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

Buba, since the street-offroad is now inverted, I guess there is a typo in the new wiki. In fact at menu 0-2 the wiki asks to input the max legal speed, which instead should be the max off-road speed as the legal speed is set in menu 8, isn't it?

Well spotted and you are right! Thank you for taking the time to look through the wiki and report the typo! It is now corrected:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ion-0.19.X

[Dirkro]

Hi, I have installed 19.8 on 36V motor and battrie
Thank you for this!!!
- I like the new button logic.
- The change from road mode to offroad mode I cannot real understand, because it is not logical to for me to swich to road mode through a button code.

It is running well in my opinion but following things we can think about:
- The calculated human power seemed to be too high
- The calculated cadence is lagging going up quite slow from 50 to my cadence (70 -80) . The pedal rmp are essential for calculation of human power basicaly (rpm* torque)*(2*Pi*60) ... hopefuly I am right...
I think the power calculation is much more faster than the cadence.
- The engine (36V - 36V )is working significant better in high cadence mode and much more responsive and and a bit stronger also in low cadence. Furthermore the in standard mode the engine get stucking at 85-90 rpm. Maybe the standard mode can be improverd.
Will try with an analog torque wrench to note readings (10, 20, , 30, 40,50 Nm) with correlating sensor readings.

[buba]

Hi, I have installed 19.8 on 36V motor and battrie
Thank you for this!!!
- I like the new button logic.

Great!

- The change from road mode to offroad mode I cannot real understand, because it is not logical to for me to swich to road mode through a button code.

The change was done partly from feedback and partly to simplify the logic. Every time a user activates a function the system should be using the parameters that are set in that particular function.

But I think what you mean is that you wish that the Street Mode should be active from start and not through a button event. This can be enabled. Please take a look at the wiki under sub menu 8, Street Mode, and then 2, Active on system startup. Set to 1 to always have the Street Mode enabled when powering up the bike. Let me know if this helped in any way and sorry for the possible confusion!

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... treet_Mode

- The calculated human power seemed to be too high
- The calculated cadence is lagging going up quite slow from 50 to my cadence (70 -80) . The pedal rmp are essential for calculation of human power basicaly (rpm* torque)*(2*Pi*60) ... hopefuly I am right...
I think the power calculation is much more faster than the cadence.
Will try with an analog torque wrench to note readings (10, 20, , 30, 40,50 Nm) with correlating sensor readings.

I have previously given a few notes on the human power:

A word on somewhat accurate human power readings to the community: It is possible to define a complete system model. Starting with the torque sensor and measuring the output from known inputs in the complete defined operating range. The same is done on the rotation/cadence sensor. The two sensors define the system calculating the generated pedal power. If this is carefully calibrated and there is no large discrepancies between components in different units we have the foundation to a somewhat accurate power meter. Not saying anything about the level of accuracy. The hardest part is to create an algorithm that not only takes into account the lack of precision and resolution of the sensors but that also correctly models the power generated on a complete pedal revolution.

Another approach is the black box approach. We would have an accurate and known input (easier said than done) and measure the output of the complete system, meaning the two sensors combined. Thus defining the system response to different inputs. It would then be possible to map the sensor values to human pedal power values.

So in short, there is a need to study the hardware and make good enough sensor models and appropriate calibrations. All of which will aid in making a more accurate human power meter. If this is what the community wants.

This is not something that will be solved in the stable version 0.19.0. But maybe in the future. I like that you are willing to make some tests and would be very interested to see your results, Dirkro!

- The engine (36V - 36V )is working significant better in high cadence mode and much more responsive and and a bit stronger also in low cadence. Furthermore the in standard mode the engine get stucking at 85-90 rpm. Maybe the standard mode can be improverd.

I have also noticed this. Good that you mention it. This can be solved and improved in future versions!

[jderb]

I just got a TSDZ2+KT-LCD3 kit for use with the Open Source Firmware. I can't get the LCD3 to boot after flashing. This has happened with 2 different LCD3s and 2 different motor controllers. Even when just plugged into the ST-LINK, the displays just hang in the "all bits on" stage. The second LCD3 was flashed by Electrifybike.com, where I bought all my parts. I think the second LCD3 did boot up properly once.

I'm sure I'm just making some stupid noob mistake, but it's driving me frikin nuts.

[casainho]

I just got a TSDZ2+KT-LCD3 kit for use with the Open Source Firmware. I can't get the LCD3 to boot after flashing. This has happened with 2 different LCD3s and 2 different motor controllers. Even when just plugged into the ST-LINK, the displays just hang in the "all bits on" stage. The second LCD3 was flashed by Electrifybike.com, where I bought all my parts. I think the second LCD3 did boot up properly once.

I'm sure I'm just making some stupid noob mistake, but it's driving me frikin nuts.

That happens if you have brake sensors pressed. Maybe you have the magnetic brake sensors pressed??

[jderb]

I just got a TSDZ2+KT-LCD3 kit for use with the Open Source Firmware. I can't get the LCD3 to boot after flashing. This has happened with 2 different LCD3s and 2 different motor controllers. Even when just plugged into the ST-LINK, the displays just hang in the "all bits on" stage. The second LCD3 was flashed by Electrifybike.com, where I bought all my parts. I think the second LCD3 did boot up properly once.

I'm sure I'm just making some stupid noob mistake, but it's driving me frikin nuts.

That happens if you have brake sensors pressed. Maybe you have the magnetic brake sensors pressed??

Aha! You are my hero. Although the magnets are not yet installed, I disconnected the break sensors and it boots!

[Uturn]

what exactly is high cadence mode changing technically? I use a 48V motor, switched it on, but I do not feel much difference.
How does it work? Does it affect the efficiency? Why does the menu warn this might harm the motor? Why does the menu state the mode might not have any effect on 48V motors? My cadence ist not extremey high, I don't go often above 110 rpm. But I'd like to improve my cadence.

[jbalat]

Just some testing on the inverse ramp factor to reduce lag

Hello,
I'm new to this forum. I just installed and flushed Kt-lcd3 with my TSDZ2. I also experience this lag which you have mentioned before and would love to fix if but I don't now how. I already checked WiKi and watched your video about it and still didn't figure it out.
It it's not too much to ask could you please step by step guide me what exactly I have to do.
How to compile?
How to flash if back to the controller?

P. S. I really like your videos about installing and flashing Kt-lcd3 with TSDZ2.

Grisham I made one change to the variable using version 16 and that eliminated the drag for me. As I have not moved to any newer versions of the firmware I cannot comment as to whether it has been addressed or not. At the time boost mode was causing issues and had to be disabled. Perhaps someone else can answer. If this is fixed then you won’t need to compile it yourself.
Thanks
JB

[jbalat]

what exactly is high cadence mode changing technically? I use a 48V motor, switched it on, but I do not feel much difference.
How does it work? Does it affect the efficiency? Why does the menu warn this might harm the motor? Why does the menu state the mode might not have any effect on 48V motors? My cadence ist not extremey high, I don't go often above 110 rpm. But I'd like to improve my cadence.

Uturn, high cadence mode removes the maximum motor speed limit present in the code which then allows it to over spin, then it increases the amount of advance of the magnetic field to actually force the motor into going faster than its design speed, while this is considered risky by the developers it is referred to as field weakening and is a lot more common than you think. I have been running my 36v motor at up to 120cadence for more than 10,000kms now, I have not noticed any issues with the motor or less efficiency. It does indeed work for the 48v motor also. You will only know it is working if you peddle greater than 90 cadence, if it is turned off then it will be almost impossible to reach cadence of 100, when it is switched on it is possible to get to 120 cadence. Usually I can only achieve 120 if I am Pedalling like crazy just before I hit a jump. If I can’t hit this high rpm before hitting a ramp then it is impossible to get a good launch. I can also notice it when racing my friends, without it switched on the motor would lose power at an early rpm and force you to change into a higher gear which is frustrating, hope this helps, thanks JB

[Dirkro]

Just some testing on the inverse ramp factor to reduce lag

Hello,
I'm new to this forum. I just installed and flushed Kt-lcd3 with my TSDZ2. I also experience this lag which you have mentioned before and would love to fix if but I don't now how. I already checked WiKi and watched your video about it and still didn't figure it out.
It it's not too much to ask could you please step by step guide me what exactly I have to do.
How to compile?
How to flash if back to the controller?

P. S. I really like your videos about installing and flashing Kt-lcd3 with TSDZ2.

Grisham I made one change to the variable using version 16 and that eliminated the drag for me. As I have not moved to any newer versions of the firmware I cannot comment as to whether it has been addressed or not. At the time boost mode was causing issues and had to be disabled. Perhaps someone else can answer. If this is fixed then you won’t need to compile it yourself.
Thanks
JB

I think the function is implemented in the setup menue under item 7.2 Curent ramp up per second . Standard is 5, can be set up to 10. I would like to set it up to 12-15 if you ask me.