TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

[jeff.page.rides]

Can confirm that there is a bug with the cadence displayed when I installed the 0.20.0 Beta 1 from the official project page. But it seems that the bug is not present on the 0.20.0 Beta 1 that is on my drive... Will have to confirm this by testing some more.

I used the same LCD3 display with the file from your site on two different TSDZ2 motors 1 with the file from your site that the cadence displayed correctly and 1 with the file from the official site that the cadence display did not work.

This is a very strange bug. There are no differences between my code and the official version... Will have to look at it more closely.

Maybe one of my tsdz2 has a bad cadence sensor in the motor

[Uturn]

SW102 and cabling to attach to a new TSDZ2.

As the SW102 is bluetooth capable: Is it possible to add a transmitter to the TSDZ2 and use SW102 wireless?

[danielson]

Need some help.
I flashed the firmware in my new motor today and made necessary settings using marcoqs java configurator. I am waiting on my SW102 and have read that you can power the motor by joining white to green. I gave the 8 pin plug from the motor the chop and joined the white and green but no power. It is a new 48v motor from pswpower has 8 pin plug - female hole with 8 males pins in it. My battery is 52v thus the need to change the settings. Should what I have done worked ?

I read the motor controller can be enabled by simple connect green wire to white wire and this way there is no need to use LCD here https://opensourceebikefirmware.bitbuck ... oller.html So joinging Green P+ battery voltage to White Vin / ground should enable the motor without the LCD, however with information that gatorsean just posted it looks like I should be joining blue to red ?
Am on the right track ?

Did some testing today and found gatorseans information was correct for my motor however connecting red to blue will not power the motor. I tried connecting red, blue and black to the corresponding wires on the LCD and although the LCD would turn on still no power from the motor. I had to connect the RX and TX wires to the lcd brown and yellow wires before the motor would run and it seemed glitchy but have more to do another time.

Update.
I ended up installing standard 52v firmware and was able to get it to work by connecting blue to red. The power seemed around level 3 but default 25km speed limit was in place. I tried connecting the LCD again and adjusting the speed then removing the LCD but the result was the same. I ended up just putting the VLCD5 on so I can adjust settings.

[Dirkro]

Can confirm that there is a bug with the cadence displayed when I installed the 0.20.0 Beta 1 from the official project page. But it seems that the bug is not present on the 0.20.0 Beta 1 that is on my drive... Will have to confirm this by testing some more.

I installed 0.20Beta1 Yesterday from Github
Did cadence sensor calibration / advance mode during setup,
My cadence is shown OK, a little bit flickering up and down ( +/- 2)

Was working fine on first test drive, working very smooth and nice!
Was a little confused by the changed Street mode handling.

One question:
I used standard settings for assistance. But swiched on MTB Mode.
Is the MTB Mode something on top of the other assistance modes or working only seperatly.
If on top , which kind of assistance is recomended to cooperate with this?

[Snoopz]

Flashed both my displays (850C) with the latest beta 3 version of the OSF. I use throttle, but when activated it gives me a temperatur warning. First the yellow one, and then the red one.

I haven't put the motor into the bicycle yet, so I just connected the battery, throttle and so on.

Whilst throttle is enabled, the temp feature is disabled.

So my question is: why does it still give me a temperatur warning?

Else everything works as expected. Hyped for my finished bike, not gonna lie

Ride on folks!

[maximusdm]

Hi Buba,

It is good to see that all is well with you!

That does not sound right. I am easily getting up to 50 kph without any problems. Be sure to check all the configuration parameters and let us know how it goes!

Can you please add some details how are you getting to this speed easy? What assistance level and what particular settings are you using?
I can hit 40 kph with medium effort and over 45 kph with significant effort. I am using also exp cadence.

Regards!

[Snoopz]

Hi Buba,

It is good to see that all is well with you!

That does not sound right. I am easily getting up to 50 kph without any problems. Be sure to check all the configuration parameters and let us know how it goes!

Can you please add some details how are you getting to this speed easy? What assistance level and what particular settings are you using?
I can hit 40 kph with medium effort and over 45 kph with significant effort. I am using also exp cadence.

Regards!

My guess is he uses the maximum amount of power the motor can sustain without overheating + a different chain ring (so the motor spins at higher rpm, therefore being more efficient) + a high gear on the back wheel. So motor spins at high rpm, and power goes to a high gear. He might be using 29" tires with street profile, so less rolling resistance than you might have. Also, he might have the 750w version powered by a 52v battery, giving even more power to the motor.

I can post my results on friday or saturday, depending on how much time I have at hand. I'm running 52v and 750w, with a standard 42T chain ring (comes with motor). Available chain rings go down to 32T.

[hefest]

Installed lm35dz sensor and it's working nicely. Showing 23C on room temperature. Interesting thing is that temperature starts rising immediatelly when i engage walking mode.

While having motor open I've also installed gel pads. It's more like a thick pad of clay than gel. I have left one side of the plastic foil on so it doesn't stick to the casing. It's easily pliable so it conformed to the casing when pushed a bit harder. Not sure how efficient will it be but it's better than nothing.

I replaced the rubber sealant where the wires protrude from controller to the side where chainrinf is with high temperature silicone. Used the same silicone to seal the cover on that side as well. Since that rubber/silicone sealant is easy to remove I'm thinking about sealing the motor cover as well just to be sure.

In the mean time waiting for the sw102 to arive. It's pain in the butt to go through unmarked lcd3 menus.

[casainho]

New firmware version for 850C dispaly, download here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... 5.0-beta.5

Changelog beta.5:

- graphs now correctly show history data of last 15 minutes
- all graphs are now stored on RAM, meaning you can switch between each one of the thirteen and see the last 15 minutes of history
- added battery current to customized field and graphs
- previous customized field index is now stored between power ups
- warning and error thresholds now activated on the motor temperature (see next picture: motor_temperature_min_value_to_limit = 55 and motor_temperature_max_value_to_limit = 65)

[Snoopz]

Thank you very much for the fast update! Very much appreciated!

[mikec1953]

Loaded 850C_v0.5.0-beta.5. Imperial setting still not working. Even though main screen says MPH, the speed and trip reading are both in KM/H.

[James Broadhurst]

Loaded 850C_v0.5.0-beta.5. Imperial setting still not working. Even though main screen says MPH, the speed and trip reading are both in KM/H.

Trip is definitely mph on mine and I’ll be right disappointed if speed isn’t mph as well!

[buba]

Can confirm that there is a bug with the cadence displayed when I installed the 0.20.0 Beta 1 from the official project page. But it seems that the bug is not present on the 0.20.0 Beta 1 that is on my drive... Will have to confirm this by testing some more.

I used the same LCD3 display with the file from your site on two different TSDZ2 motors 1 with the file from your site that the cadence displayed correctly and 1 with the file from the official site that the cadence display did not work.

This is a very strange bug. There are no differences between my code and the official version... Will have to look at it more closely.

Maybe one of my tsdz2 has a bad cadence sensor in the motor

I do not think there is anything wrong with your cadence sensor. I believe there is simply a difference in how the firmware is built. It seems that when using Windows and the latest SDCC it works. But when using Linux and SDCC (possibly with some space optimizations) it does not work... I am not confirming this to be the problem but it sure does seem like it. Will update soon.

[buba]

Can confirm that there is a bug with the cadence displayed when I installed the 0.20.0 Beta 1 from the official project page. But it seems that the bug is not present on the 0.20.0 Beta 1 that is on my drive... Will have to confirm this by testing some more.

I installed 0.20Beta1 Yesterday from Github
Did cadence sensor calibration / advance mode during setup,
My cadence is shown OK, a little bit flickering up and down ( +/- 2)

So it seems that the cadence is okay for you using the official firmware version. Let me know if you get any problems!

Was working fine on first test drive, working very smooth and nice!
Was a little confused by the changed Street mode handling.

Glad to hear! I hope you quickly got used to it!

One question:
I used standard settings for assistance. But swiched on MTB Mode.
Is the MTB Mode something on top of the other assistance modes or working only seperatly.
If on top , which kind of assistance is recomended to cooperate with this?

E-MTB Mode is a standalone riding mode and is isolated from the other modes. You can use it whenever you need a very responsive mode with access to the entire power range in one single mode.

There are no recommendation per se, just try it out and configure so it suits your riding style

[buba]

Hi Buba,

It is good to see that all is well with you!

That does not sound right. I am easily getting up to 50 kph without any problems. Be sure to check all the configuration parameters and let us know how it goes!

Can you please add some details how are you getting to this speed easy? What assistance level and what particular settings are you using?
I can hit 40 kph with medium effort and over 45 kph with significant effort. I am using also exp cadence.

Regards!

Thank you!

I have a really good 52 V battery (maintains high nominal voltage for a long time) with a 52 teeth crank on a 36 V motor. Custom made bike with minimal resistance and really good tires. Using E-MTB exclusively as it does work well with my torque sensor. Depending on gearing, battery, system and bike setup you should be able to get above 50 kph or 31 mph.

Cheers!

[buba]

Hi Buba,

It is good to see that all is well with you!

That does not sound right. I am easily getting up to 50 kph without any problems. Be sure to check all the configuration parameters and let us know how it goes!

Can you please add some details how are you getting to this speed easy? What assistance level and what particular settings are you using?
I can hit 40 kph with medium effort and over 45 kph with significant effort. I am using also exp cadence.

Regards!

My guess is he uses the maximum amount of power the motor can sustain without overheating + a different chain ring (so the motor spins at higher rpm, therefore being more efficient) + a high gear on the back wheel. So motor spins at high rpm, and power goes to a high gear. He might be using 29" tires with street profile, so less rolling resistance than you might have. Also, he might have the 750w version powered by a 52v battery, giving even more power to the motor.

I can post my results on friday or saturday, depending on how much time I have at hand. I'm running 52v and 750w, with a standard 42T chain ring (comes with motor). Available chain rings go down to 32T.

One of the perks of living where winters get really cold with an overall high air density is that the motor is kept cooler. So that helps me somewhat.

There is no difference between the 250/350/500/750 W versions of the TSDZ2. The only difference in the hardware is what type of motor you might have: 36 or 48 V. The controller is the same for all versions.

[Powerhour]

Turns out I had forgot to zap strap the crank..no wonder

I’ll do it when I get home and hopefully I’ll be able to achieve faster speeds.
Thanks

[buba]

Turns out I had forgot to zap strap the crank..no wonder

I’ll do it when I get home and hopefully I’ll be able to achieve faster speeds.
Thanks

Glad that you sorted it out!

I do recommend to increase the gear ratio if you want a bit more assistance at higher speeds. Maybe install a 52 T crank or a cassette with an eleven teeth sprocket.

[casainho]

New firmware version for 850C dispaly, download here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... 5.0-beta.6

Changelog beta.6:

- corrected issue where speed were show always in kph, even with imperial units
- small arrow indicator on configurations menu now is draw correctly

Loaded 850C_v0.5.0-beta.5. Imperial setting still not working. Even though main screen says MPH, the speed and trip reading are both in KM/H.

[Dirkro]

Can confirm that there is a bug with the cadence displayed when I installed the 0.20.0 Beta 1 from the official project page. But it seems that the bug is not present on the 0.20.0 Beta 1 that is on my drive... Will have to confirm this by testing some more.

I installed 0.20Beta1 Yesterday from Github
Did cadence sensor calibration / advance mode during setup,
My cadence is shown OK, a little bit flickering up and down ( +/- 2)

So it seems that the cadence is okay for you using the official firmware version. Let me know if you get any problems!

Was working fine on first test drive, working very smooth and nice!
Was a little confused by the changed Street mode handling.

Glad to hear! I hope you quickly got used to it!

One question:
I used standard settings for assistance. But swiched on MTB Mode.
Is the MTB Mode something on top of the other assistance modes or working only seperatly.
If on top , which kind of assistance is recomended to cooperate with this?

E-MTB Mode is a standalone riding mode and is isolated from the other modes. You can use it whenever you need a very responsive mode with access to the entire power range in one single mode.

There are no recommendation per se, just try it out and configure so it suits your riding style

Sorry, then I have some questions with the modes:
Should I only enable one mode in the configuration?
If so, what will happen if I will enable two different modes?
If not, How to change from mainscreen? I did not find the method to swich!
Regarding MTB Mode: just to ned to put on the sensitiveness. Nothing to change with the assistance butons right?

I am so curious to get it running!

[James Broadhurst]

New firmware version for 850C dispaly, download here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... 5.0-beta.6

Changelog beta.6:

- corrected issue where speed were show always in kph, even with imperial units
- small arrow indicator on configurations menu now is draw correctly

Loaded 850C_v0.5.0-beta.5. Imperial setting still not working. Even though main screen says MPH, the speed and trip reading are both in KM/H.

Just flashed beta.5 bootload. Trip and odometer both fixed at 0.0, current is working fine. Will try beta.6

[Waynemarlow]

Sorry, then I have some questions with the modes:
Should I only enable one mode in the configuration?
If so, what will happen if I will enable two different modes?
If not, How to change from mainscreen? I did not find the method to swich!
Regarding MTB Mode: just to ned to put on the sensitiveness. Nothing to change with the assistance butons right?

If you set 1 on any mode in the setup, the unit will put 0 in the other two modes ie as soon as you pick one of the modes the others are disabled.

Emtb is effectively a max 10th level, if you set enable ( 1) in the setup field for EMtb, you get the number of levels you have set + 1

Emtb is enable to range from 0 Watts to max Watts on the one setting. I've found best to set up by raising /lowering the sensitivity until with maximum pedal input you get maximum motor watts. If you think you are easily getting max watts ( you will have set the max amps in the setup initially amps x volts = watts ) then lower your sensitivity. Its a bit trial and error but doesn't take long. I've found Emtb best when riding on your own and you just want an easy blast. Emtb is also good if you want to limit max power, just keep lowering the sensitivity until you reach max watts with max input from yourself to a level which is comfortable to ride with.

[Waynemarlow]

I have a really good 52 V battery (maintains high nominal voltage for a long time) with a 52 teeth crank on a 36 V motor.

Cheers!

Buba, have you tried a 48V battery in comparison with your 52V as regards to cadence levels. My 48V set on standard numbers will peak out at about 90 - 95rpm before its starts to back the motor off. Is the 52Volt worth the extra batteries ( do you get any cadence speed gains ) or can I change the motor numbers in the advance setting to compensate.

Thanks for all your work.

[James Broadhurst]

Just flashed v0.5.0-beta.6-bootloader and still have no odometer & trip recording. Speed is ok set at mph.

[Snoopz]

[/quote]

One of the perks of living where winters get really cold with an overall high air density is that the motor is kept cooler. So that helps me somewhat.

There is no difference between the 250/350/500/750 W versions of the TSDZ2. The only difference in the hardware is what type of motor you might have: 36 or 48 V. The controller is the same for all versions.
[/quote]

How can't there be a difference in 250/350/500 and 750w? That statement contradicts itself. Would be like saying there isn't a difference between a kawasaki ninja with 200ps and a Honda with 50. In terms of raw power output.

Bredband = my guess is Sweden? Since it's bredbånd in Norway. And if it's Sweden, next guess is Northern Sweden. Might aswell be northern Norway, who knows. Since you already have a "cold winter", and here in the west of Norway it's not cold at all (like what, 4 degrees or so).

Cheers