Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

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ElectricGod   10 MW

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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by ElectricGod » Aug 14 2018 1:41am

Tonight I got around to putting together halls for the motor. I had some 26 awg teflon wire, but compared to the halls, it's huge. I ordered some 30 awg teflon wire. That's about the smallest I can find. This just wont do. 26awg is as big as the hall.

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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by ElectricGod » Aug 30 2018 6:17pm

much smaller teflon wire finally arrived...
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madin88   100 MW

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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by madin88 » Sep 06 2018 8:14am

ElectricGod wrote:
Jul 09 2018 11:35pm
Checked a few things.

Phase resistance: 57.6-57.7 mOhms.

Inductance: .2 to .21 uH
I guess you measured 0.2 mH, or 200µH
because 0.2 µH would be more the inductance of a shorting link then from a motor coil :wink:


Have you figured out where the hall sensors must be installed or how the solution of the manufacturer looks like?

I have seen the motor is wound in delta so the sensors need to be placed with a shift of 30° electrically opposed the directionof rotation.
This would mean you cannot place them between the teeth (or at least all of them).

http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/scheme/common/#
you could take a look at those winding schemes from above link.
yours probably is wound as dLRK or dLRK evolution. it should not be hard to find out, and than you know where the sensors need to be placed
eg. sensor A with a 30° shift beside the start point of phase wire A, sensor B beside phase B and so on...
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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by ElectricGod » Sep 11 2018 6:19pm

madin88 wrote:
Sep 06 2018 8:14am
ElectricGod wrote:
Jul 09 2018 11:35pm
Checked a few things.

Phase resistance: 57.6-57.7 mOhms.

Inductance: .2 to .21 uH
I guess you measured 0.2 mH, or 200µH
because 0.2 µH would be more the inductance of a shorting link then from a motor coil :wink:


Have you figured out where the hall sensors must be installed or how the solution of the manufacturer looks like?

I have seen the motor is wound in delta so the sensors need to be placed with a shift of 30° electrically opposed the directionof rotation.
This would mean you cannot place them between the teeth (or at least all of them).

http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/scheme/common/#
you could take a look at those winding schemes from above link.
yours probably is wound as dLRK or dLRK evolution. it should not be hard to find out, and than you know where the sensors need to be placed
eg. sensor A with a 30° shift beside the start point of phase wire A, sensor B beside phase B and so on...
Hi Madin...they use a board and the halls are inserted between the stators. Since the gap is so small the halls are back a good ways from the narrow gap between stator teeth. It's not ideal and I think the halls are too far back from the magnets.

I've had to move to another house all of a sudden so I've put aside just about everything I had going so I can move. Adding halls to this motor are one of them. I'll add those SMT halls between the stators...like I have in every other even numbered stator...wye or delta.

This is my thread on adding halls to motors. Admittedly, I initially did the AstroFlight 3220 wrong and later added halls correctly (between the stator teeth), but you get the idea. Everything I've ever done follows the below set of rules. I have several delta wired outrunners with the halls from the factory between the stator teeth and added a second set of halls to them.

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=84112

I have several outrunners and a couple of inrunners all wired delta. The halls are placed based on the tooth count, not something else and the motors work great. I follow this and it always works great.

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ElectricGod   10 MW

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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by ElectricGod » Nov 21 2018 3:21am

It has been a very long time since I did anything on this motor. Moving to a new house delayed everything. I've been in the new place a few months now and been slowly getting things organized. Finally I have had time to pull out this motor and start working on it again.

The first time around, I didn't take any pictures of the motor as I took it apart. Months and months ago I tapped 3 of the bottom holes for M10 so that I could hook the puller jaws on the screw heads. Pushing against the end of the shaft pushed off the bell until the skirt bearing slid loose and that pulled off the bottom of the bell. At that point I used 3 M5 screws and washers to hold the skirt bearing in place so I could hook on it to push against the motor shaft. There's just the magnet strength to push against so the lateral strain on the bearing is pretty small.

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Since I had the stator out, I thought a better picture of the RV-100 stator vs a C80100 stator would be good. As you can see, the RV-100 stator has a significantly larger diameter. I didn't take a picture of this, but the RV-100 stator is 5mm shorter that the C80100 stator.

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This is 28 awg wire and is way too large for soldering to these tiny halls.

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The halls are about 1mm x 1.5mm with legs that are maybe .2mm. I really needed the thinnest teflon wire I could find. As it turns out 32 awg is perfect for the job. Here's a few pics of soldering wires to those micro small hall legs. Good solder is the only thing to use here. Cheap solder would not have solidified nice and smooth like this or held such a tiny connection reliably.

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This is the halls all shrink wrapped and ready to install. They are a perfect fit in the gaps in the stator teeth. I'll use thermal glue to secure the halls in place. The halls will not have a to sit deep inside the stators like how Revolt installs them. They use 41F's which of course are too large for the gap between the stator teeth. The red wires will get spliced together and so will the black wires after all the halls are in place. The 3 signal wires are about 10" long. I'll heat shrink all the wires together before they exit the motor.

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Last edited by ElectricGod on Nov 28 2018 12:06pm, edited 3 times in total.
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madin88   100 MW

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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by madin88 » Nov 22 2018 12:38pm

Pretty good soldering job on those small parts :thumb:

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ElectricGod   10 MW

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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by ElectricGod » Nov 22 2018 10:27pm

madin88 wrote:
Nov 22 2018 12:38pm
Pretty good soldering job on those small parts :thumb:
Good solder, clean/small tip and 3X glasses made that possible.
Thanks
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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by ElectricGod » Nov 22 2018 10:43pm

I got the halls installed. Last time I installed halls in a motor, I used JBweld. That pretty well makes them permanent parts of the motor. I didn't want to do that again if I ever had a hall go bad. This time I secured them with thermal glue. It gets fairly hard, but can be picked away from the stator with out too much trouble. This makes it possible to replace a hall if or when one dies. It secures the halls sufficiently to keep them in place. I can tug on the hall wires and the halls don't move. It's hard to see in the images, but the top surface of each hall is flush with the stator face.

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I don't know how Revolt brings out the hall wires. The phase wires are a fairly snug fit in their holes. There was no spare room for the halls to come out. I picked the phase wire hole closest to the junction of the three halls and carefully nibbled away the aluminum until I could make this opening for the hall cable.

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A couple extra layers of heat shrink ought to protect those tiny wires from any abrasion and it all fits inside the skirt bearing. Some strategic placement of thermal glue and a few zip ties secure all the hall wires so nothing can move or rub.

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Re: Revolt RV-series motor review and comparisons

Post by ElectricGod » Nov 22 2018 11:19pm

The motor comes with this completely useless base. If anything, it's a template so you can make your own motor base. All Revolt had to do is make it 1.5" larger diameter and that would do the trick for 90% of people. So that's next...make a proper base for the motor out of 1/4" 6061. I want to duplicate the screw hole placement the C80100 has so that I can drop this motor into the Currie scooter.

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