CST100 motor specs

I've just bought from GreenBikeKit this motor

https://www.greenbikekit.com/electric-motor-engine/rear-bldc/e-bike-cassette-freewheel-hub-motor-36v-250w-light-weight-high-speed.html

201 RPM version, and I didn't found anywhere the specs (mainly, the torque) for this motor.
Any idea ?

Lab testing of the Q100C has documented that it has the capability of pulling the wings off a butterfly.
But seriously, electric motors and not like internal combustion engines and it is not a simple matter of putting one on a dyno and measuring X amount of foot-pounds.
One needs to consider the SYSTEM, motor ratings are Guides, and system performance is a function of many things, mostly battery power.
Here, a "performance curve" of the Q100C can be downloaded;
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/651-q100c-cst-36v350w-32-hole-rear-driving-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html
But if you can make "heads or tails" out of it, please relate it to the rest of us here.
A more useful value for projecting real World performance for a system is "time to overheat".
The "battlefield" for Ebikes are hills and if/when(usually when)a hub motor starts to lose momentum, it reaches a point(approx. half the motor's max. RPM), where it starts to generate more heat than forward motivation and things start to melt.
Two ways you can research this is;
1)Tell us what battery you plan to use, what the total weight will be, what size wheels and how long and steep the hills you will be facing are and those of us that have been using the "Cute" for years can give you an idea of what will fly and what will not.
or
2)More fun and instructive, go to the Ebike CA sim. here;
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
and enter your parameters to see what the "time to overheat" will be.
Use the MXUS FX07 motor, as it is a "201" motor of approx. the same size as the Q100C.

motomech said:

Lab testing of the Q100C has documented that it has the capability of pulling the wings off a butterfly.
...
[cut]
...
Two ways you can research this is;
1)Tell us what battery you plan to use, what the total weight will be, what size wheels and how long and steep the hills you will be facing are and those of us that have been using the "Cute" for years can give you an idea of what will fly and what will not.
or
2)More fun and instructive, go to the Ebike CA sim. here;
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
and enter your parameters to see what the "time to overheat" will be.
Use the MXUS FX07 motor, as it is a "201" motor of approx. the same size as the Q100C.

Click to expand...

That phrase involving butterflies is very demoralizing...however:

I have a 17,5 Ah battery (11S5P of Sanyo 18650GA cells - yes, is an 11S, reaching 46,2V when fully charged).
Total weight is 20kg (bike) + 85 kg the user.
29 x 2" wheels, on a front suspended trekking bike (the rigid fork was changed for a 100mm travel Rockshox Recon). This is the bike:

https://www.cube.eu/en/products/trekking/travel/cube-travel-exc-grey-black-flashgreen-2016-trapeze/


On ebikes.ca simulator, and what can be understood from the BMSBattery sheet, that motor is rated for not more than 20 nM torque. I have a 12-36 9-speed cassette, and a 36T chainring. Realistically, can I deal with (at least) some smooth hills for a few kilometers, let's say 5-6 km climbs at 3-4-5% slope ? Should I consider 10% slope out of question ?

Well, according to the Ebike CA sim. you should be able to maintain at least 12 mph on a 10% grade.
That is calculated w/ the rider inputting 100 Watts.
Motor rpm would fall to 146 rpm from a max of 243 rpm, so it should be doable.
Getting a run at it deffinately helps.
It can't hurt to try as long as you are aware of what the motor is doing and are prepared to jump off and push. The time to do that I would best describe as a feeling that in another 50 feet, the bike will stop. Don't let that happen!
My experience w/ the Q100 is that it's not the motor that overheats, but the phase wires and controller that are at risk. The stock "plug-in" bullet connectors are the weakest link and I have melted them. I now replace them w/ Turnigy 6mm bullet connectors or hard solder them. When you crest a long hill, feel the temps on the motor and controller to get an idea of what is happening and judge future ascents accordingly.
NOTE; When entering a custom battery Voltage on the sim, add a 0 to the internal resistance to make the value .002 Ohms.
Concerning gearing and top speed-The Sim shows your system should reach a top speed(no pedal)of 20 mph. My 201 Cute powered CST, w/ 26" tires and run on 46 Volts(12S LiPoly) does about that, so I would guess w/ 29" whl.s, your bike should be a little faster. At any rate, your 12 X 36 gearing seems woefully short of you being able to input w/ your legs at top speed. I run 11 X 48 gearing which allows me to pedal along at 18 to 20 mph without looking like a cartoon character. This might be an area where you might want to address.

12 mph on a 10% slope is far more than I'll ever ask from this motor. And I'm giving more than 100W while pedaling, I'm not using e-bikes like scooters. Obviously, real life trials would give me the exact feeling about this motor's limits.
So, first thing I'll do is to change power connectors on those 3+2 (motor phase and battery wiring), probably I'll sold them. BTW, the controller is this one

https://www.greenbikekit.com/250w-24v-36v-electric-bicycle-hub-motor-controller-with-led-meter.html

It looks (and feels) cheap, maybe in the future I'll change it with something more robust and featured - 5-6V power output for frontlight - rearlight on a trekking bike is always a plus, for example. I have to stay under legal restrictions in Europe, 250W rated power and 25 km/h.

The suggestion to change chainring-cassette gearing is interesting. Although I'm not going to reach 30-40 km/h range speeds (wasn't my purpose with this bike), pedaling like Chip 'n' Dale is to be avoided, too. Maybe keeping 25-30 km/h as max speed with 36T chainring/12T cassette sprocket will keep pedaling frequency between human limits.

Thanks a lot for all your suggestions. If all the posts were so concise and useful, forums could be proposed for learning in schools.

P.S. I'll post my results, too, after some testing and experience gained.

You'll be totally fine with this motor and your goals, i had exactly the same some years ago. Please mind that i melted my motor with a 1500w controller because i was not pedalling on one of my trips. Some pedal effort is needed to keep this small motor in the comfort zone, especially on 29" wheels.

Cheers

Looks like 300w continuous, 500w peak is an ideal use case per the sheet. Might look a bit better at 48v.
Doesn't crest the 80% efficiency mark in the best case scenario, so it probably has old 0.5mm laminations or some other non-optimal design.

Bafang G310 is a kick in the pants for about 1 pound more compared to this thing.
For the same power, the YTW-06 offers this kinda butterfly-wing shredding torque for a few lbs less.