controller with PAS input customizable via 3 way switch?

I'm looking for a 48V controller for either 20 or 30 amps (depending on which motor it drives) with inputs for PAS (and throttle of course) that can be customized with a 3 way switch. I want the 3 way switch to control overall power (or speed limiter would be OK I guess) and to enable PAS. So switch position 1 would be no PAS at power level 1, position 2 would be power level 1 with PAS, and position 3 would be no power limit. The two motors I have are the Q100H (20 amp) and a Mac 10T (30-35 amp). I like my controllers to be rated 5-10 amps over the maximum I would use to prevent overheating. I would greatly prefer to have a simple single pull double throw switch for input than depending on an entire computer display mounted on the bars (mainly for aesthetic purposes).

AFAIK the Lyen would be the only thing that could do this, and they don't seem to be available now in that power range. Are there any other options?

I use this controller on all my Q100's and my Ezee V1 w/ voltages between 44.5V (12S LiPoly) & 52V (14S LiPoly):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-350W-9MOSFET-ebike-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Motor-Controller-with-LED/222373438918?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3D4fa19a6ecd4d49f1a0d4b95860c0f7aa%26pid%3D100040%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D222373438918%26itm%3D222373438918&_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060
It is a "soft-start", smooth controller that maxs @ 17 Amps, but I run it shunt modd'ed to 22 Amps for the larger Ezee. The PAS delay is typical for a square wave controller, 1 to 2 seconds. The 810 LED display is small and not very noticeable and I place blk. tape over the LED's for further stealth @ nite. To have an on/off PAS, I run a mirco-switch (@ the h. bars) in series to the two PAS wires @ the controller. The controllers and been very reliable for me and at the $40/. shipped price, I think they are hard to beat.

I like my controllers to be rated 5-10 amps over the maximum I would use to prevent overheating.

Click to expand...

Your assumption is incorrect. While the controller may pose a limit on the max Amps a system sees, it does not dictate what that value is. That is determined by several system factors as they react to the varying load, but suffice to say, it's more of a matter of the motor pulling Current, than the controller "pushing" Current.
But you will notice that this controller is a 9-FET w/ a larger housing(and heat sink)than the typical "Chinese" 17 Amp, 6-FET controller comes with. I run mine inside bags and they are not prone to getting very warm. But this may well be because, in my experience, over-heating problems w. these low-power geared motor systems always manifests itself w/ melted phase wires and connections. If your are going to have a problem w/ "over-heating", it will be there.

Shunt modd'ed to 22 AMPs, this is the perfect square-wave controller for your Q100H, but may be somewhat under-powered for the MAC. You could try it on the MAC first to see if it will do the job for you and if it doesn't move it to the Q100.
For the MAC, Grin offers a small LED display that takes the place of a Cycle Analyst and works w/ all the Grin controllers:
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/cycle-analysts/ezeeled.html

As I look back, I see I never really answered your original question about wiring in a 3-way rocker switch to control the PAS, so here goes;
A number of years ago, I did just that. As I recall, the controller was a KU63 or KU65. I soldered in the wires, bundled and ran them them to a custom bracket on the H.bars. The chrome bracket was not particularly stealthy and the open backs on the switches were exposed to the weather. Had I spent more time on it, I'm sure I could have made it look less "cobby", but I think after using the more modern sm. LED sealed displays, that they are a much better way to go.