Tsdz2 firmware open source adapted to vlcd5, vlcd6 and xh18

[Elinx]

...... the source of the java application....

No, Marcoq has decided to keep the control. You see the notification if you startup the configurator.
Casainho has writed an issue about this on qmarco girhub, but I think Marcoq has never answered this, because for some reason marcoq hasn't visit his repo anymore.

[godofglow]

...... the source of the java application....

No, Marcoq has decided to keep the control. You see the notification if you startup the configurator.
Casainho has writed an issue about this on qmarco girhub, but I think Marcoq has never answered this, because for some reason marcoq hasn't visit his repo anymore.

Hmmmm, ok. Good to know.
At the end, he is 'just' writing the config.h and safe the values inside the ini files.

[godofglow]

It does not happen often. Maybe once every 60 power cycles. Possibly related to adjusting assist level while screen is still loading, as last two times it happened within 30 seconds of starting my commute. Maybe i'm somehow turning on walk assist or something, not sure how to do that. Does the km/h on the screen stay stuck when walk assist is on; when i experience this "glitch" the km/h value is stuck static on the screen.

I just had this happen as well on AckManiacs 19c-fork (commit "fixed bug for assist level 3"). I fiddled around changing assist levels back and forth and suddenly assist level 0 was speeding on its own. If I switched to assist level1, it was normal again (no auto-run), if I changed back to assist level 0 it auto-ran on its own again. Pretty weird..

I had also some strange behavior on 19c-fork from Ackmaniacs. Sometime after powercycle no assistant.
maybe related to adjust something at the display while loading or of the position/torque of the pedals at start up...=?
Any idea?

[danielson]

I have been trying trying to run a new TSDZ2 with no display, have flashed firmware and settings using the configurator with default emtb mode. I thought is was as simple as joining the blue battery + V wire to the red Vin wire but dies not work.

[Ackmaniac]

It does not happen often. Maybe once every 60 power cycles. Possibly related to adjusting assist level while screen is still loading, as last two times it happened within 30 seconds of starting my commute. Maybe i'm somehow turning on walk assist or something, not sure how to do that. Does the km/h on the screen stay stuck when walk assist is on; when i experience this "glitch" the km/h value is stuck static on the screen.

I just had this happen as well on AckManiacs 19c-fork (commit "fixed bug for assist level 3"). I fiddled around changing assist levels back and forth and suddenly assist level 0 was speeding on its own. If I switched to assist level1, it was normal again (no auto-run), if I changed back to assist level 0 it auto-ran on its own again. Pretty weird..

I had also some strange behavior on 19c-fork from Ackmaniacs. Sometime after powercycle no assistant.
maybe related to adjust something at the display while loading or of the position/torque of the pedals at start up...=?
Any idea?

it is important to not touch the pedals at the beginning when you start the display.
You need to wait until you see the battery SOC (battery bars) which takes around 5 seconds.
In that time the torque sensor idle value is calibrated.

[Michael B]

Guess interesting would be
- Motor temperature
- Battery voltage
- Motor amps
- Battery amps
- actual Watts

Will test a bit when i find the time for it.

This would be really great.

[danielson]

I have been trying trying to run a new TSDZ2 with no display, have flashed firmware and settings using the configurator with default emtb mode. I thought is was as simple as joining the blue battery + V wire to the red Vin wire but dies not work.

I ended up installing standard 52v firmware and was able to get it to work by connecting blue to red. The power seemed around level 3 but default 25km speed limit was in place. I tried connecting the LCD again and adjusting the speed then removing the LCD but the result was the same. I ended up just putting the VLCD5 on so I can adjust settings.

[famichiki]

I've just flashed this for the first time and have a few issues. I've attached my settings if someone could please take a look at them for me. I have a 48V motor with a 52V battery and am using Ackmaniac's fork.

- I've set the PWM Duty Cycle Ramp Down to 0.8 the but motor still keeps running for 1-2 seconds after stopping pedalling. How can I reduce this? Is it safe to try below 0.6 with Ackmaniac's firmware now? My main concern with the factory firmware was the run-on making it difficult to back off to shift gears smoothly.

- When stationary with feet resting on pedals the motor keeps trying to run even if I try to be very still and not put much pressure on them.

- Speedometer gets some random flashes of high speeds like 99 kmh.

- When stopping, the speedometer freezes around 8-10 kmh and takes a few seconds to drop to zero.

- System takes a long time to start up with each battery bar being progressively displayed. Is this part of the OSF initialision process?

- How are the VLCD5 battery bars calculated for bars 5 to 2, is it linear? We only have the option to enter values for 6, 1 and Empty.

- For the Li-Ion Cell Voltage for Empty option, should I set this the same as the low voltage cut-off? Will the display of that coincide with the end of power being supplied? Or should we continue to get power for a while after dropping to zero bars? I'm working on 3.15V (44.1V cut-off) for Samsung 35E cells.

- How to enable walk-assist? I read that it's by pressing (holding down?) the minus button but nothing happens.

Thank you

my_settings_01.png (150.33 KiB) Viewed 2865 times

[famichiki]

So I've done about 30kms on this configuration today and although the pedal feel is very natural I did find some problems.

I am using the latest Ackmaniac fork from Nov 6:
TSDZ2_Controller_vM0.19.C_and_TSDZ2_Configurator_0.3.7_con_codice_0.19_Stable

1. Motor continues to run by itself without stopping. This is a serious issue.

As others have mentioned, the motor will sometimes continue to provide power and not stop. I had this happen when I was riding fast in Turbo mode and the motor still kept trying to run even after I stopped the bike with the brakes.

2. Motor runs-on a long time after stopping pedalling.

I reduced PWM Duty Cycle Ramp Down to 0.3 and I'm unsure whether it's helping but I made some interesting observations. The run-on time seems related to cadence, and maybe speed too. After pedalling multiple rotations the motor will run-on longer, but after a partial or single rotation it will cut out very quickly.

3. Random bursts of power during ramp down after stopping pedalling

Shortly after I stop pedalling the motor will sometimes give a kick of extra power for a second, then ramp down. No idea what this is related to. It still does it even after my other fix mentioned below.

4. Can't rest feet on pedals while stationary or motor wants to run, even with brakes held on and zero movement.

This seems like a bug related to Assistance Without Pedal Rotation as I couldn't tell a difference between checking/unchecking the option. Normally I have this unchecked, but when stopped I can't rest a foot on the pedals or the motor wants to start. Even holding the brakes on with zero cadence. I edited the code to ignore the checkbox option and only look for cadence RPM and that fixed the problem.

Finally, I don't recall reading this on the forum but there is note in the code that Soft Start only works if Boost Mode (Motor Power Boost) is disabled. So if you always use boost don't bother playing around with the Soft Start settings as they won't do anything.

[Elinx]

So I've done about 30kms on this configuration today and although the pedal feel is very natural I did find some problems.

I am using the latest Ackmaniac fork from Nov 6:
TSDZ2_Controller_vM0.19.C_and_TSDZ2_Configurator_0.3.7_con_codice_0.19_Stable
..............

Thanks for your observations and solutions.
If this is a bug in the firmware I hope that Ackmaniac and/or Marcoq will resolve this, because this could be a real danger if you are on speed and have to stop wich is impossible to do at once.
You haven't publish how and what you have edited in the code (point 4). Maybe this can be usefull if you do

[Ackmaniac]

Thanks for these observations. Guess the reason that my firmware still gives power has to do with the fact that i do not take the cadance into account. Because i only look at the torque sensor. And if that ones gives a small value it will still output some power.
On marcos firmware the power output is related to the cadance.
Need to find some time to provide a nice solution.

But all in all the results can vary depending on your torque sensor. If the sensor is too sensible you can adjust the sensors offset by setting the "ADC Torque Sensor Treshold" value a bit higher.

[famichiki]

Thanks for these observations. Guess the reason that my firmware still gives power has to do with the fact that i do not take the cadance into account. Because i only look at the torque sensor. And if that ones gives a small value it will still output some power.

That is interesting. So do you think by pedalling more that the torque level naturally rises? But why would that cause the motor to run-on longer after stopping pedalling?

You haven't publish how and what you have edited in the code (point 4). Maybe this can be usefull if you do

Are you running Ackmaniac's version?

I'd like someone else to please test with and without Assistance Without Pedal Rotation checked and seeing if there's a difference in operation.

I determined there was no difference for me by holding the brakes and putting pressure on the pedals. Both ways the motor wanted to run. Maybe this is related to Ackmaniacs comment above and that option no longer applies when using his firmware?

I'm not familiar with the code, but in ebike_app.c this where I suspected the problem was..

Code: Select all

// when ui8_motor_assistance_startup_without_pedal_rotation == 0
if(configuration_variables.ui8_motor_assistance_startup_without_pedal_rotation == 0)
{
        ui32_vartemp = (uint32_t) f_pedal_torque_x_assist_level_factor;
}
else
{
    if(ui8_pas_cadence_rpm)
    {
        ui32_vartemp = (uint32_t) f_pedal_torque_x_assist_level_factor;
    }
    else
    {
        ui32_vartemp = (uint32_t) f_pedal_torque_x_assist_level_factor;
    }
}

I changed mine to this and no more problem. Please correct me if this will have side effects!

Code: Select all

if(ui8_pas_cadence_rpm)
{
    ui32_vartemp = (uint32_t) f_pedal_torque_x_assist_level_factor;
}
else
{
    ui32_vartemp = 0;
}

[Elinx]

....... i do not take the cadance into account. Because i only look at the torque sensor.......

I don't know about coding, but is that choice the same as Buba has made in v0.20, where you can choose between torque, torque+cadence and cadence.
"Cadence only" is missing for now with v0.19
Shouldn't it than be easier to adopt v.0.20 as a base?

...... Are you running Ackmaniac's version?

No, I don't, because I didn't see this as an update in the first place. More another approach.
I run marcoq's version with XH18. I follow the comments here and on Jobike

If I understand well, there will come a version of the configurator based on v0.19 where you can choose for
marcoq, ackmaniac and mbrusa mods
I ask for the edited code so maybe Ackmaniac/Marcoq or someone else could use this for improving their mods.

[ashrambo]

I'll check it tomorrow and I will change my blog if it is wrong.

.....
=> What are the right codes for STREET/OFFROAD and eMTB at the XH18?

Please look only to XH18 table from marcoq.
I think Ashrambo got a little confused with Vlcd5/6 table

XH18 SCREEN
errors:
OVERTEMPERATURE -> E06
EBIKE WHEEL LOCKED -> E04
OVERVOLTAGE -> E08
functions:
DEFAULT PARAMETERS -> E02 (Level 0)
STREET MODE ENABLED -> E02 (Level 1)
OFFROAD MODE ENABLED -> E03 (Level 1)
BOOST MODE ENABLED -> E03 (Level 2)
BOOST MODE DISABLED -> E02 (Level 2)
EMTB MODE ENABLED -> E03 (Level 3)
EMTB MODE DISABLED -> E02 (Level 3)

To switch from one mode to another with the XH18 display, press the "power" button twice.
The "i" button only changes from odometer to tripmeter and resets .

Examples for the XH18 screen:
level 0 selected: (E02 = DEFAULT ON). Reset all modes to default settings
level 1 selected: (E02 = STREET ON, E03 = STREET OFF) or...
level 1 selected: (E03 = OFFROAD ON, E02 = OFFROAD OFF).
level 2 selected: (E03 = BOOST ON, E02 = BOOST OFF).
level 3 selected: (E03 = eMTB ON, E02 = eMTB OFF).

where did you get the table from?

Enviado desde mi SM-A405FN mediante Tapatalk

[ashrambo]

I'll check it tomorrow and I will change my blog if it is wrong.

.....
=> What are the right codes for STREET/OFFROAD and eMTB at the XH18?

Please look only to XH18 table from marcoq.
I think Ashrambo got a little confused with Vlcd5/6 table

XH18 SCREEN
errors:
OVERTEMPERATURE -> E06
EBIKE WHEEL LOCKED -> E04
OVERVOLTAGE -> E08
functions:
DEFAULT PARAMETERS -> E02 (Level 0)
STREET MODE ENABLED -> E02 (Level 1)
OFFROAD MODE ENABLED -> E03 (Level 1)
BOOST MODE ENABLED -> E03 (Level 2)
BOOST MODE DISABLED -> E02 (Level 2)
EMTB MODE ENABLED -> E03 (Level 3)
EMTB MODE DISABLED -> E02 (Level 3)

To switch from one mode to another with the XH18 display, press the "power" button twice.
The "i" button only changes from odometer to tripmeter and resets .

Examples for the XH18 screen:
level 0 selected: (E02 = DEFAULT ON). Reset all modes to default settings
level 1 selected: (E02 = STREET ON, E03 = STREET OFF) or...
level 1 selected: (E03 = OFFROAD ON, E02 = OFFROAD OFF).
level 2 selected: (E03 = BOOST ON, E02 = BOOST OFF).
level 3 selected: (E03 = eMTB ON, E02 = eMTB OFF).

where did you get the table from?

Enviado desde mi SM-A405FN mediante Tapatalk

Italian Forum pag 28
http://www.jobike.it/forum/topic.asp?TO ... ichpage=28

=== VLCD5 e VLCD6 ===============
Errori:
OVERTEMPERATURE -> E06
EBIKE WHEEL BLOCKED -> E07
OVERVOLTAGE -> E08

Funzioni:
DEFAULT PARAMETERS ON -> E02 (Livello 0)
STREET ENABLED -> E03 (Livello 1)
OFFROAD ENABLED -> E04 (Livello 1)
BOOST ENABLED -> E05 (Livello 2)
BOOST DISABLED -> E01 (Livello 2)
EMTB ENABLED -> E02 (Livello 3)
EMTB DISABLED -> E01 (Livello 3)

=== XH18 ========================
Errori:
OVERTEMPERATURE -> E06
EBIKE WHEEL BLOCKED -> E04
OVERVOLTAGE -> E08

Funzioni:
DEFAULT PARAMETERS ON -> E02 (Livello 0)
STREET ENABLED -> E02 (Livello 1)
OFFROAD ENABLED -> E03 (Livello 1)
BOOST ENABLED -> E03 (Livello 2)
BOOST DISABLED -> E02 (Livello 2)
EMTB ENABLED -> E03 (Livello 3)
EMTB DISABLED -> E02 (Livello 3)

[Elinx]

,,,,,,
Italian Forum pag 28
http://www.jobike.it/forum/topic.asp?TO ... ichpage=28
........

=== XH18 ========================
Errori:
OVERTEMPERATURE -> E06
EBIKE WHEEL BLOCKED -> E04
OVERVOLTAGE -> E08

Funzioni:
..............
EMTB ENABLED -> E03 (Livello 3)
EMTB DISABLED -> E02 (Livello 3)

That is the same Jobike source I had too, but translated.
It is the same you have on your blog, but your examples are not correct for XH18

(NB Someone has also writed a comment on your blog too, about these examples)
https://ashthinkings.blogspot.com/2019/ ... arcoq.html

de esta forma por ejemplo para la pantalla XH18:
...........
. con el nivel de asistencia 2 seleccionado: (E03 = BOOST ON, E02 = BOOST OFF).

. con el nivel de asistencia 3 seleccionado: (E02 = eMTB ON, E01 = eMTB OFF).

[famichiki]

Today while switching back and forth comparing street and off-road mode my motor got confused and applied the speed limit to both modes. However it didn't just stop assisting at 25kph, there was a strong resistance stopping me pedalling above about 28kph. This was flat ground and good conditions, so I don't think the problem was my legs! I powered the system off and on and then it worked normally again. It had been working fine for about 10km before I started playing with the settings.

Also, I can't tell any difference when using eMTB mode. Could this be because I'm using Ackmaniac's firmware which is only torque sensing? I took the bike to a hilly park and really couldn't notice a benefit. Does it work in all modes or do we need to leave it in Speed mode?

[Atrihalov]

I don’t understand something. Why experiment with alternative firmware, if the original one works well, alternative firmware interferes with pedaling, and many have written about it. Either make a good configuration or write the truth that your configuration does not help but only interfere.

[Elinx]

......Why experiment with alternative firmware...
..

Saving the blue gear, possible to have higher cadence, more regulated power, temperature contol, higher Voltage, e-mtb etc.
With another display there are even more advantages.

But if you are satisfied with default fw. and don't like the fuzz around flashing, you can forget about that all.

[gomyles]

Hi everyone,

I'd appreciate anyone's input that may be able to help me out with this.

I really want to keep a throttle and use the Open Source Firmware.

I think what I am looking forward to the most are the Field Weakening (higher speeds) and the higher cadence. I'd like to be able to get the bike going to 35km / hour (or faster) without risking overheating the motor ...

I understand that if using the throttle, I can not use the temperature sensor. What would be the safe current level to run the motor at without the temperature sensor? Maybe 10 Amps? (52V Battery = roughly 500W)

Is this functionality obtainable with the VLCD5? Or is still mostly only reliable on the KTLCD3 / Bafang 850C display?

Thank you very much for any help!

[surytj]

I don’t understand something. Why experiment with alternative firmware, if the original one works well, alternative firmware interferes with pedaling, and many have written about it. Either make a good configuration or write the truth that your configuration does not help but only interfere.

I absolutely disagree, but that's my private opinion. I drove 500km on the factory software, then changed to Marcoq software and drove another 700km. Open source software is 1000 times better.
The most important difference is that I start the bike, change the power level to 2 and forget about controlling the buttons. I focus only on proper gears and cadences (I ride from asphalt to MTB). On the factory software I felt that I can damage the engine and very often I had to change the levels of engine support.
Limitation to 25km/h and 250W with 2 clicks.
A lot of options to choose from, thanks to which I can set the bike perfectly under myself. Therefore, I would like to thank everyone who contributed to the development of the software.

Currently, my biggest problem is that the chain falls off the engine sprocket in difficult terrain despite the proper length of the chain, but this is not a software problem anymore.

[famichiki]

I absolutely disagree, but that's my private opinion. I drove 500km on the factory software, then changed to Marcoq software and drove another 700km. Open source software is 1000 times better.

Which version?

[Elinx]

.....
A lot of options to choose from, thanks to which I can set the bike perfectly under myself. ....

Please, share your settings.

[obcd]

If there would be settings that work for everyone, you could just have them being fixed.

Some people have a 36V battery, others a 48V or even a 52V.

Some people like the bike to start slowly to save the blue gear and chain. Others like it to take off quickly if they have frequent stops at traffic lights.

Some like to pedal at a cadence of 75 rev / min. others prefer 90 rev / min.

Some want it to stay legal and stop assistance at 25km/h and others just want it occasionally when they are stopped at a traffic control.

Some want to push the maximum torque out of the motor without overheating and others just want to go easy on it.

The open source firmware is very flexible.
Most other systems just have one battery choice and a number of assistance levels to work with.

[Elinx]

If there would be settings that work for everyone, you could just have them being fixed.....

Ofcourse, but for comparision reasons it is always nice to know what settings for some people are working better, good or even perfectly.
As you said, there are a lot of settings possible and there are on regular base questions about it.
So, if some people can see what is working good, they can use some settings as a base.