Installing CA 3 thermistor temperature sensor in QS motor

I recently got a QS motor and want to install the CA 3 thermistor temperature sensor in it.
https://www.ebikes.ca/ca3-therm.html

I've never taken apart a hub motor before and after a while to get the hub motor open I thought putting the 2 wires all the way through the axle is going to be a super pain in the ass.

Wiring
The motor comes with dual hall sensors (in case one of them fails)- providing the original hall sensor holds up, I was thinking a super quick way would be to use a couple of the wires for the spare hall sensor. Obviously I'd have to change all this if the original hall sensor fails.

For example I could use the orange and purple wires from the unused hall sensor. I'll cut the zip tie to make sure they aren't connected to anything, if they are make sure to use heatshrink after I install the temperature sensor etc. all properly

Location
I found this blog https://sites.google.com/site/shelbyelectro/motors/mods/installing-a-temp-sensor-in-a-hub-motor
and saw the guy used some heat proof epoxy to put the sensor on the windings


So I plan to use the same technique and this epoxy its rated up to 232C continuous.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007PP26RI/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While motor is open
While I have the motor open, is there anything else I should add? Perhaps I should add a cheap 12v LED temperature monitor? (does up to 125℃)
https://www.amazon.ca/DROK/dp/B00D7AEKMO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=39YVREHUO8XO2&keywords=12v+temperature+led&qid=1554312046&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011&rnid=5690384011&rps=1&s=gateway&sprefix=12v+temper%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2


Re-assemble
When opening the motor up I noticed nuts for the plates had some blue stuff on them (lock tight?). Also around the edges of the plates on both sides some silicone. Should I be adding some silicone and locktight back when I re-assemble?

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smeagol222 said:

I thought putting the 2 wires all the way through the axle is going to be a super pain in the ass.

Click to expand...

It is. :/

The motor comes with dual hall sensors (in case one of them fails)- providing the original hall sensor holds up, I was thinking a super quick way would be to use a couple of the wires for the spare hall sensor.

Click to expand...

As long as they are disconnected from the sensors entirely, then yes, that's a perfectly good way to do it.

While I have the motor open, is there anything else I should add? Perhaps I should add a cheap 12v LED temperature monitor? (does up to 125℃)

Click to expand...

Since the CA will be reading the temperature, and can display this on the main screen if you like (top right corner, alternating with whatever other stats you want) you don't really need a separate one, unless you just prefer it that way. (it's one more thing to crowd your handlebars or dashboard, and one more set of wires to run from the motor to up there).

When opening the motor up I noticed nuts for the plates had some blue stuff on them (lock tight?). Also around the edges of the plates on both sides some silicone. Should I be adding some silicone and locktight back when I re-assemble?

Click to expand...

Blue Loctite, perhaps, silicone, no.

I don't recommend trying to seal a motor up at all, unless you're using ferrofluid. Moisture will get in no matter what you do, but if it's not sealed up at least it can get back out. If it's sealed up, it can't get out, and will eventually corrode anything in the motor it touches (whcih is just about everything metal that's not coated with a protectant).

If you're intending to ride places it might get totally submerged, then I'd just coat the whole motor inside with something like the red motor paints DoctorBass, Cowardlyduck, and others have used (I think they used the spray can version; I've used a brush-on version in a tiny bottle on my recent modifications to an MXUS 4503, though mine was for electrical insulation rather than waterproofing).

BTW, if there's something wrong that would tend to unscrew the cover bolts, the loctite may not help. I had an HSR3548 with a perpetual cover-bolt-ejection problem, where almost every ride I'd be missing at least one bolt. Tried different bolts with wider heads for more surface contact, and that helped (washers did not, with or without any form of lockwasher), but I only had a couple of those, and couldn't find more with the right threads and length. Tried superglue on a couple just to see, and it didn't help. Blue loctite on all of them, no difference (except they might take several rides to come loose). Didn't try red, since I didn't want to be unable to remove them. (eventually I found the cause, though--the axle was actually wearing at the bearing ID, presumably from an out-of-roundness of the cover itself, which would put precession stresses on the screws, and...loosen them. ).

When sealing it back up, use RTV silicone gasket, you can get it at any auto supply shop.

Also, while it's open, maybe think about adding some statorade if you haven't, it will help keep the motor running cooler.

Can´t CA3 use the temp sensors in the motor, do you have to change?

Thanks Amberwolf really appreciate the advice here

Ordered the statorade- i hope i don’t have to remove the motor from the stator, i was just going to squirt in between magnets (see photo). There was no temp sensor in the motor originally so i had to install one

I’m excited to get CA working with temp sensor thermal rollback etc