Yes the anodizing takes one extra week. Parts will be delivered to the Anodizers tomorrow with the anodized drives shipped Monday week. In regards to instructions, I am working on these at the moment and will have these ready for download before anyone receives their drives. In regards to special tools, a metric Allen key set and a few basic tools are all you need. These are really nice and make assembly a breeze.http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... rewdriver_ Put 2mm, 2.5mm,3mm, and 4mm in your cart if you happen to be buying other pieces from the site.oatnet wrote:Drrooool.Kepler wrote:Built drives ready to be shipped.
I'd imagine the anodized black ones will take longer for the extra step, I can't wait! Do you have the assembly instructions ready yet? I just want to make sure I have the tools I need for the build, otherwise I'll throw down another $20 for the build. It looks like a standard bolt-together, but ya never know.
You still need an interface. The throttle signal needs to be converted from 5K to a signal the ESC reconizes. A servo tester does this. The servo tester circuit is very simple and can be made for a few dollars or just buy one. I use this one and modify it http://cgi.ebay.com.au/000504-EK2-0907- ... ccessories Just need to remove the pot out of it, install a plug, and wire the currie or Magura to it.SanFranRider wrote:So i am assuming I can just wire a 3-wire Currie 5k thumb throttle to the ESC and I am good to go, right? When you have the interface ready does that replace the throttle, or does the interface go between the throttle and the ESC?
I am just about ready to buy. But I too want to know if the kit requires any special tools or skills.
No problems. The same adapter will suit both sizes. I would supply 2 adapters so you could leave the adapter on the seat post and just clamp onto it.SanFranRider wrote:I would like to use the KFDS on two different bikes. One has a 1.050in (26.67mm) seatpost, the other has a 1.070in (27.18mm) post. Any problems with this?
Noise wise, the 320kV motors do make a bit of noise at full throttle. Not uncompfortable but not stealth either. The low kv motors down at 200 are quite enough to need your bell to let people in front know you are coming.RayB wrote:Hi Kepler,
Fascinating setup. I am looking for something I can keep as stealth as possible. I know these are based on an RC setup so I am just curious on the noise level these are putting out. Are they real screamers? Also, being tall most of my bikes have a huge rear triangle. Do you ever see a version in the future that could hang off the seat tube below the top tube vs the seat post. This would keep it very stealthy for my needs.
Great price. Good find. Thats the best price I've seen on this ESC.oatnet wrote:I just bought a Castle Creations Phoenix ICE 100a/heatsink for $97, $7 shipping, this was the one recommended on page 1? The price seemed better than my RC neophyte search was turning up elsewhere, and the vendor has 2 more at that price, so I thought I'd post it.
He has another auction for the same ESC for $112.95. I asked him what the difference was, he said the cheaper one was the same item in an older listing. Inflation?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0496110929
My main testing has been using the Hyperion 4045 320kv and the 63-74 200kv. Both have skirt bearings and have been super reliable even when running in the rain. I have done a bit of testing with some smaller motors without skirt bearings also and had no issues with the bearings. In reality, the load on the bearings isnt that great. Perhaps a couple of Kg at the most. The only concern I would have is the can being distorted if a skirt bearing is not used but so far I havent seen this.Hillhater wrote:I can see why you chose the Hyperion initially, and i believe most of your testing has been on that motor with the dual bearings, but i would like to know how you feel the cheaper turnigy's are holding up and are any of the motors tried NOT fitted with skirt bearings ?
Aside from the Hyperion "Z" series, are there any other motors with skirt bearings ?? ( i believe some of the turnigys are fitted..eg, TGY 63-54-A )
.. I believe this is an important choice for reliability in this type of application.
Bearings are unchanged. So far so good. The skirt bearing the 63-74 is massive.oatnet wrote:I was leaning towards the Hyperion for the skirt bearing until you pointed out the Turnigy had one too, and made the comment about the lower KV motors being more stealthy, so I bought the HXT 63-74 200kv Brushless Outrunner. I guess I had been to that page a few times and left it sitting, so a popup came up that knocked the price to $55. Did you change the bearings on yours or run it stock?
I also got a pair of the servo testors you advised, from ebay's US website instead of AU: EK2-0907 Servo Tester. That seems to be everything I need, so this cost me $500 US, including your Kit and Anodizing... That is cheap, less than a laced BMC or x5, and it already includes the controller.
Is the reason you recommend 5p/6p lico because that is common packaging, or because with our loading, approaching the 35v limit on the ESC is hard on it? My plan is to run this on 9S a123's 16ah, just shy of the 35v limit for more RPMs, to take the 200kvm motor to the 30-35mph mark I was hoping for. Huh, was the lower KV motor quieter simply because of lower RPMs? If so, then the larger motor is stealthier, but even so I'll probably end up making a happy racket at speed
mwkeefer wrote:vero board ? Wow man, talk about Forest M Mimms age and you look so young on TV... I think you and me, maybe Fechter and GGoodrum used Vero board.
While were at it, could you post the WireWrap version of the 555timer/pot _
Are you sure that the HTX 63-74 has a skirt bearing ???oatnet wrote:......I was leaning towards the Hyperion for the skirt bearing until you pointed out the Turnigy had one too, and made the comment about the lower KV motors being more stealthy, so I bought the HXT 63-74 200kv Brushless Outrunner.