Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE 2013

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Doctorbass   100 GW

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Oct 09 2014 4:29pm

ERASTABIKE wrote:how can i order a set of 2, NEW 10.?mm+++ ?

i need them please

PM me! :wink:

I still have many available.

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by don27dog » Oct 18 2014 4:44pm

Dr. Bass ... Thank you for the quick shipping of my set of torque arms. I had a little time to play with them this afternoon. After 5 mins of filling they fit like a glove. My Dp420 will not arrive until Monday so I am waiting until then to remove the paint. Do you think there is enough surface area for the epoxy to hold with this swingarm?
Image

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Oct 18 2014 11:01pm

don27dog wrote:Dr. Bass ... Thank you for the quick shipping of my set of torque arms. I had a little time to play with them this afternoon. After 5 mins of filling they fit like a glove. My Dp420 will not arrive until Monday so I am waiting until then to remove the paint. Do you think there is enough surface area for the epoxy to hold with this swingarm?
Image
Hi

Yes i see that you will probably have enough surface but MAKE SURE THAT IT IS NOT THE T-A THAT TAKE ALL THE WEIGHT... so to do that place the T-A higher for like 0.5mm compare to the bike dropout so that way the motor shaft willtoutch your frame first and the T-A will only take the twist force.

you also have alot of room to fit bolt!... or even EPOXY and BOLT :twisted:

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by bigsi » Oct 23 2014 12:20pm

Absolutely fabtastic doc. Very fast delivery and very well made. Thank you very much. Bigsi
specialized s-works enduro carbon running 18FET Lyen. crystalyte 5304v3 running 105v 15ah....
I build quick release custom batteries to any size and shape. Including custom installs.

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Dec 02 2014 10:48pm

Still selling these after 5+ years with great succes guys! :wink:

I have them in stock.

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by magna_503 » Dec 11 2014 10:44am

Doctorbass,
could u pm a price for the pair shipped to 97123.
thanks

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Dec 11 2014 11:51am

magna_503 wrote:Doctorbass,
could u pm a price for the pair shipped to 97123.
thanks

Pm sent! :wink:

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by ElectricFunk » Dec 11 2014 6:07pm

Doctorbass,

Please pm a price for the pair shipped to 87110.

Thanks

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by magna_503 » Dec 11 2014 6:34pm

Just paypaled you for a set.

thanks


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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Dec 14 2014 1:43am

ecologymagnet wrote:PM with shipping to Spain 27004

Great job Doctor!
Pm sent :wink:

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by ecologymagnet » Dec 14 2014 11:09am

Doctorbass wrote:Pm sent :wink:

Doc
Where can I buy 3M DP-420 on Europe?

Have you DP-420 on Stock?

Thank you Doc.

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Dec 14 2014 1:24pm

ecologymagnet wrote:
Doctorbass wrote:Pm sent :wink:

Doc
Where can I buy 3M DP-420 on Europe?

Have you DP-420 on Stock?

Thank you Doc.
You can get some from Ebay usually. If you find the DP460 , it is as good as the 420 but it have a worklife of 60 minutes instead of 20 minutes.


I have no 420 availlable at the moment.

There is alot of store that are selling it on the internet usually. just search with these keywords: epoxy, 3M, scotchweld, 420, 460 etc

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by ecologymagnet » Dec 14 2014 1:44pm

Doctorbass wrote:
ecologymagnet wrote:
Doctorbass wrote:Pm sent :wink:

Doc
Where can I buy 3M DP-420 on Europe?

Have you DP-420 on Stock?

Thank you Doc.
You can get some from Ebay usually. If you find the DP460 , it is as good as the 420 but it have a worklife of 60 minutes instead of 20 minutes.


I have no 420 availlable at the moment.

There is alot of store that are selling it on the internet usually. just search with these keywords: epoxy, 3M, scotchweld, 420, 460 etc

Doc
Thank you Doc.

I send you the payment for the pair of torque arms.

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by mrbill » Dec 15 2014 9:24pm

Hi doctorbass:

I am interested in your torque arms (T-A's), but I think it might be easiest to use an identical pair without the derailleur hanger so that I don't move the derailleur further outboard. I'm not sure if the adjustment screws will fully-compensate for a 3/8" offset.

I have two recumbent bikes with unusual dropouts. One is titanium, the other aluminum. Both are about 6mm thick.

The aluminum frame has busy dropouts, so I might need to grind parts of the T-A to get it to sit flush. Also, I do not want to mount these permanently to my frame, but to bolt them using two bolts. I would like to have the option of returning to using wheels with standard-length quick release skewers.

How easily can I grind the outside of the torque arm itself and to drill holes for M5 hardware? Do you have any with fewer or no pre-drilled holes?

Thanks.
Attachments
GR_DS_dropout.jpg
Gold Rush drive side dropout
GR_NDS_dropout.jpg
Gold Rush non-drive side dropout
P_DS_dropout.jpg
Pursuit drive side dropout
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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Dec 15 2014 11:02pm

mrbill wrote:Hi doctorbass:

I am interested in your torque arms (T-A's), but I think it might be easiest to use an identical pair without the derailleur hanger so that I don't move the derailleur further outboard. I'm not sure if the adjustment screws will fully-compensate for a 3/8" offset.

I have two recumbent bikes with unusual dropouts. One is titanium, the other aluminum. Both are about 6mm thick.

The aluminum frame has busy dropouts, so I might need to grind parts of the T-A to get it to sit flush. Also, I do not want to mount these permanently to my frame, but to bolt them using two bolts. I would like to have the option of returning to using wheels with standard-length quick release skewers.

How easily can I grind the outside of the torque arm itself and to drill holes for M5 hardware? Do you have any with fewer or no pre-drilled holes?

Thanks.
Yes you can gring some area to make the mount easier. You can even grind teh leg to remove it from teh derailleur side T-A. A simple grinder with 4" disk that cut steel will work.. or even a dremel with a good disk.

Drilling that kind of steel must be done with professional grade quality drill bit.. otherwise you will only produce heat :lol: and melt your drill bit.

The area you have on your actual dropout seem perfect to fit many holes on the T-A. Some people use smaller bolt ( M6 or M7) and add epoxy to fill the gap or you can go directly with M8 bolt.

M5 is way too small to take all that shear strengh !.. or unless you put many of these.

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by mrbill » Dec 16 2014 12:09am

Doctorbass wrote:
mrbill wrote:Hi doctorbass:

I am interested in your torque arms (T-A's), but I think it might be easiest to use an identical pair without the derailleur hanger so that I don't move the derailleur further outboard. I'm not sure if the adjustment screws will fully-compensate for a 3/8" offset.

I have two recumbent bikes with unusual dropouts. One is titanium, the other aluminum. Both are about 6mm thick.

The aluminum frame has busy dropouts, so I might need to grind parts of the T-A to get it to sit flush. Also, I do not want to mount these permanently to my frame, but to bolt them using two bolts. I would like to have the option of returning to using wheels with standard-length quick release skewers.

How easily can I grind the outside of the torque arm itself and to drill holes for M5 hardware? Do you have any with fewer or no pre-drilled holes?

Thanks.
Yes you can gring some area to make the mount easier. You can even grind teh leg to remove it from teh derailleur side T-A. A simple grinder with 4" disk that cut steel will work.. or even a dremel with a good disk.

Drilling that kind of steel must be done with professional grade quality drill bit.. otherwise you will only produce heat :lol: and melt your drill bit.

The area you have on your actual dropout seem perfect to fit many holes on the T-A. Some people use smaller bolt ( M6 or M7) and add epoxy to fill the gap or you can go directly with M8 bolt.

M5 is way too small to take all that shear strengh !.. or unless you put many of these.

Doc
M5 hardware may be too thin for 2.5kw motors. I'm planning to use 1kw peak. On the other hand, it may make sense to plan for more power, even if I never use it. I'm a bit leery of drilling 8mm holes in my dropout, that it might weaken it too much. Plus the holes in the T-A may not line up with a clean area on the original dropout.

I've never seen a loose epoxy bond that held up as well as a metal-metal fit, but M6 hardware might make hole placement easier. What kind of epoxy would I use to "fill the gap"?

How much would two pairs of these run?

Thanks.
Bill Bushnell
http://mrbill.homeip.net/
Bike build thread can be seen here.

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Dec 16 2014 1:02am

mrbill wrote:
Doctorbass wrote:
mrbill wrote:Hi doctorbass:

I am interested in your torque arms (T-A's), but I think it might be easiest to use an identical pair without the derailleur hanger so that I don't move the derailleur further outboard. I'm not sure if the adjustment screws will fully-compensate for a 3/8" offset.

I have two recumbent bikes with unusual dropouts. One is titanium, the other aluminum. Both are about 6mm thick.

The aluminum frame has busy dropouts, so I might need to grind parts of the T-A to get it to sit flush. Also, I do not want to mount these permanently to my frame, but to bolt them using two bolts. I would like to have the option of returning to using wheels with standard-length quick release skewers.

How easily can I grind the outside of the torque arm itself and to drill holes for M5 hardware? Do you have any with fewer or no pre-drilled holes?

Thanks.
Yes you can gring some area to make the mount easier. You can even grind teh leg to remove it from teh derailleur side T-A. A simple grinder with 4" disk that cut steel will work.. or even a dremel with a good disk.

Drilling that kind of steel must be done with professional grade quality drill bit.. otherwise you will only produce heat :lol: and melt your drill bit.

The area you have on your actual dropout seem perfect to fit many holes on the T-A. Some people use smaller bolt ( M6 or M7) and add epoxy to fill the gap or you can go directly with M8 bolt.

M5 is way too small to take all that shear strengh !.. or unless you put many of these.

Doc
M5 hardware may be too thin for 2.5kw motors. I'm planning to use 1kw peak. On the other hand, it may make sense to plan for more power, even if I never use it. I'm a bit leery of drilling 8mm holes in my dropout, that it might weaken it too much. Plus the holes in the T-A may not line up with a clean area on the original dropout.

I've never seen a loose epoxy bond that held up as well as a metal-metal fit, but M6 hardware might make hole placement easier. What kind of epoxy would I use to "fill the gap"?

How much would two pairs of these run?

Thanks.
Hi

As i said in that thread the epoxy is DP420 from 3M. If you drill just two holes on teh lower part of your actual dropout this will not affect the strengh of your frame and dropout and will fit to the lower holes of the T-A when facing in teh same direction as shown on your pictures. Two M8 holes per side will be perfect.

One set is 36 + shipping to your location. usually shipping(Air) to the US cost 12$

Pm me if you need a set i can ship these tomorrow.

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by ecologymagnet » Dec 21 2014 6:09pm

Is the DP420 White very different from black performance ?

Where can we buy the black ?

Isn´t DP420 from ebay (china) fake?

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by diggler » Dec 21 2014 9:42pm

just wanted to say I used best jb weld they have and it worked great.
I did it right. It took full 24hrs to cure. (used a hair drier) Then I drilled a hole in aluminum frame through one of the holes in the TA the size of one of the holes on the TA and hammered a roll pin flush with inside of drop out and cut the rest off with a wizzy wheel. I only used one on left side and 60v 30a 1000w motor and no problem.
Now I need another set for next build. I should just get two but funds are a bit tight.
Prob going to get mxus3000w (hopefully V2) and use this 72v 40-45A (15-4410's) controller I have sitting here at 96v.
Just wanted to get your okay to use these with mxus3000 and mini-e or max-e adapto (max-e prob overkill for this motor right?)

Sending pm now.
GAS ELECTRIC FAT BIKE 49CC/3000W MXUS V1 18s Lipo 18 Fet BUILDING...http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =6&t=65638
600W CAPACITIVE SPOT WELDER BUILDING... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =2&t=66466
HOLANDIA BEACH CRUSER 1000W 9C ?TURN REBUILDING... no thread yet.
Next project will be 18" Iron Horse hard tail mid drive

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by mrbill » Jan 12 2015 4:38pm

Doctorbass wrote:The area you have on your actual dropout seem perfect to fit many holes on the T-A. Some people use smaller bolt ( M6 or M7) and add epoxy to fill the gap or you can go directly with M8 bolt.
Hi Doc:

The 8mm holes in the torque arm are a bit small for the SS M8 bolts I have on-hand. But, the SAE 5/16" bolts I have fit through the holes like a hand in glove, with only a tiny bit of play. Instead of reaming out the hard steel of the torque arm to fit an M8 bolt, what about using a 5/16" bolt, probably 5/16" x 5/8" x 24tpi?

Would countersinking the mounting holes in the torque arm so that I can use flat heads be OK?
Bill Bushnell
http://mrbill.homeip.net/
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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Jan 12 2015 4:47pm

mrbill wrote:
Doctorbass wrote:The area you have on your actual dropout seem perfect to fit many holes on the T-A. Some people use smaller bolt ( M6 or M7) and add epoxy to fill the gap or you can go directly with M8 bolt.
Hi Doc:

The 8mm holes in the torque arm are a bit small for the SS M8 bolts I have on-hand. But, the SAE 5/16" bolts I have fit through the holes like a hand in glove, with only a tiny bit of play. Instead of reaming out the hard steel of the torque arm to fit an M8 bolt, what about using a 5/16" bolt, probably 5/16" x 5/8" x 24tpi?

Would countersinking the mounting holes in the torque arm so that I can use flat heads be OK?

That's a good question.. I think that for moderate torque countersinking can be Ok but I can not ensure you 100% that it will not add a risk too. I would not countersink them if using like 200A phase current and a 4 or more turn motor winding.

Well.. it also depend on the thickness of your countersink.. you could use flat head with a V groove shape.. this would be the best I think.

Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by ecologymagnet » Jan 18 2015 10:42am

What process you follow to paste the torque arms ?

1) Clean frame and torque.

2) Sand the paint.

3) Apply 3M

How you align the torque ? With the axle of motor cover with film?

Advice?

Thank you.

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by Doctorbass » Jan 18 2015 1:08pm

ecologymagnet wrote:What process you follow to paste the torque arms ?

1) Clean frame and torque.

2) Sand the paint.

3) Apply 3M

How you align the torque ? With the axle of motor cover with film?

Advice?

Thank you.
I have wrote everything about that in the FIRST page :wink:

and NO YOU DONT PAINT after sanding but clean again with alcool or aceton or both aceton followed by alcool ( the alcool that dont have water in it.. just pure aclool)



For those who dont want to bother with welding them or using screw on their dropout, you can use this epoxy:
DP-420 ( ideally the black).. not the off white wich is a bit less strong
The black( grey) color DP420 epoxy is capable of 4500psi overlap shear force 8) :twisted:
considering that you will be able to apply at least 2 square inch of that glue, that's 9000psi overlap shear force on your dropout...
At that force, what will break is your axel by twisting.. not the torque arms!! :wink:

http://www.shop3m.com/62328014352.html


( you might need an applicator or the piston to push on both tubes.. but instead i recommand to diy a U shape rod that will push on both pistons of the tube at a time.. that will save you money!.. just ensure to push equally on both to get the proper mix ratio :wink: )
EVERY metal parts of all my 4 ebikes that i needed to attach together and where screw was not the best or easy solution, i used that DP420
and i am still really impress on hot it is so strong!!!
Perfect cure time is 7 days... at ambiant.. but after 24 hour 90% of the strengh is acheived
and at 100 celsius temp of curing, you just need 30 minutes :wink: and to let the part to col down to abmiant and leave it oe hour alone to stabilize.
You can sand both part to ameliorate the surface roughness and active surface of both parts..
Make sure THAT BOTH PART TO GLUE TOGETHER ARE PERFECTLY CLEAN!!!.. no grease, ... you can use isopropylic or normal alcohol or aceton

ONE LAST THING..
IF you glue them with the DP-420 NEVER EXPECT TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THEM AFTER YOU WILL HAVE ATTACHED THEM TO YOUR FRAME !! :shock: ... or... accept to put your frame in an oven at 200 celsius or above to soften the epoxy... and fragilize the heat treatment it had.
Doc
CURRENT PROJECT: 2WD duo MXUS/Max-E ebike 32kW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =3&t=65764
-Fastest speed record 117 km/h on flat
-Fastest 1/4 mile@ 114km/h on flat and 16.316 sec
-Succeded to haul a 19200 pounds schoolbus!
113kmh Gianthttp://www.evalbum.com/3406
Mongoosehttp://www.evalbum.com/1947
YOUTUBE---https://m.youtube.com/user/Doctorbasss
http://twitter.com/DocbassMelancon
I speak FRENCH and english

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mrbill   10 kW

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Re: Doc's ULTIMATE TORQUE ARMS fit most of the frame UPDATE

Post by mrbill » Feb 02 2015 8:55pm

Doctorbass wrote:f you drill just two holes on teh lower part of your actual dropout this will not affect the strengh of your frame and dropout and will fit to the lower holes of the T-A when facing in teh same direction as shown on your pictures. Two M8 holes per side will be perfect.
I mounted the torque arms and used a Sharpie to indicate where the 5/16" bolts might go on each of the dropouts. I marked holes only where they where fully contained on the dropout (i.e. weren't hanging over an existing hole or off the dropout's edge). I suspect that I want to use two bolts on opposite sides of the axle for the strongest installation.

In the spirit of "measure twice (or N times); cut once", I thought I'd post these photos to get another opinion before I start drilling holes.

Photo 1 shows the Gold Rush drive side aluminum dropout. Counting from the position closest to the derailleur hanger, would the best hole locations be at the 3rd and 5th position?
GR_ds.jpg
Photo 1: Gold Rush drive side aluminum dropout
GR_ds.jpg (204.6 KiB) Viewed 804 times
Photo 2 shows the Gold Rush non-drive side aluminum dropout. Counting from the position at the left, would the best hole locations be at the 1st and 3rd positions?
GR_nds.jpg
Photo 2: Gold Rush non-drive side aluminum dropout
GR_nds.jpg (207.38 KiB) Viewed 804 times
Photo 3 shows the Pursuit drive side titanium dropout. Counting from the position closest to the derailleur hanger, would the best hole locations be at the 1st and 3rd position? I'm a little worried that position #1 is close to the edge of the void in the dropout.
P_ds.jpg
Photo 3: Pursuit drive side titanium dropout
P_ds.jpg (217.87 KiB) Viewed 804 times
Photo 4 shows the Pursuit non-drive side titanium dropout. Counting from the position at the left-most, would the best hole locations be at the 1st and 3rd positions?
P_nds.jpg
Photo 4: Pursuit non-drive side titanium dropout
P_nds.jpg (204.94 KiB) Viewed 804 times
Thanks.
Bill Bushnell
http://mrbill.homeip.net/
Bike build thread can be seen here.

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