Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Place for dealers to post items for sale.
User avatar
John Bozi   1 MW

1 MW
Posts: 1861
Joined: Apr 09 2013 1:46am
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Contact:

24s 24ah

Post by John Bozi » Jul 13 2017 4:04pm

Got a link for a simple thermometer kit? I have thought about this in the past....

Totally agree 10 gauge is overkill when many of the controller wires are often thinner....

Problem with cutting is that the part that requires cutting is where it is joined to the pack.... I don't want touch that close.

The other thing is although safer... I wish the bullets weren't joined in this housing because these connectors will take up a huge space compared to what I usually do with the daisy chaining 5.5 bullets and then having only one 2p harness.

I actually want to cut these off and get all the correct custom lengths with the bullets but I am worried about warranty issues in the first few weeks. Thinking out loud... having said that I doubt I will get this bike running within the 1 month warranty period. (I think it is 1 month can't remember)

Obviously parallel first series second is better, but real estate is an issue and I would also like to monitor each cell's performance individually more accurately than when its pulling down another in parallel... Yes I will be bulk charging unless they are going out of balance....

8 x 6s 12ah = 24s 24AH lipo or 6s = 22.2v nominal x 4 in series = 88.8v nominal

Long rides probably hot off the charge will be 98v down to 88v.
Short ones will all be around storage charge. 95v-90v. The pack is way bigger than I have ever had and look forward to not needing to always run it at the high end.

Amiran   10 W

10 W
Posts: 69
Joined: Jun 09 2017 5:13pm

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by Amiran » Aug 06 2017 5:58am

Hi,
Would like to know the latest price for 76 frame w moto seat.
Thanks

User avatar
scrambler   100 W

100 W
Posts: 256
Joined: Aug 10 2015 7:23pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area (USA)

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by scrambler » Aug 06 2017 11:36am


User avatar
Offroader   10 MW

10 MW
Posts: 2185
Joined: Sep 08 2013 9:03pm
Location: USA

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by Offroader » Aug 06 2017 11:45am

Sometimes they run sales on their frames if you keep looking.

Their frames are worth the extra expense, especially if you want the motorcycle seat.

Motorcycle seat + footpegs, you have one awesome electric light weight dirt bike.

User avatar
Cricket_Swe   100 W

100 W
Posts: 155
Joined: May 22 2016 4:01am
Location: Sweden

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by Cricket_Swe » Aug 07 2017 2:36am

Newsletter!

Image

User avatar
John Bozi   1 MW

1 MW
Posts: 1861
Joined: Apr 09 2013 1:46am
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Contact:

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by John Bozi » Aug 12 2017 9:31pm

phase wires up or down? down looks like a weird bend and more damage from terrain.... right?

Image

User avatar
Offroader   10 MW

10 MW
Posts: 2185
Joined: Sep 08 2013 9:03pm
Location: USA

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by Offroader » Aug 13 2017 6:57pm

I have mine up. While up is probably safer it probably doesn't matter as you'll never hit it.

User avatar
John Bozi   1 MW

1 MW
Posts: 1861
Joined: Apr 09 2013 1:46am
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Contact:

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by John Bozi » Aug 16 2017 9:50pm

Ended up going down... Now I am wondering about how you guys secure your wiring away from the disc brake.

I'm just gona keep picks in an album so they don't get lost all over the shop for anyone interested...
https://1drv.ms/a/s!AlSKk_ubN_YkjQIPeopc0ojgTA9t

24ah 100v

Image


User avatar
John Bozi   1 MW

1 MW
Posts: 1861
Joined: Apr 09 2013 1:46am
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Contact:

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by John Bozi » Oct 20 2017 6:05am

recycled polymorph plastic from the red bike. The red and a bit of oil and mud probably...

looked more like tampons...

Or some said bacon rashes and yes I had all the birds attacking it and eating bits of plastic!

nio88   10 mW

10 mW
Posts: 31
Joined: Sep 15 2014 4:00pm

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by nio88 » Nov 25 2017 4:32pm

Hi guys,
I´ve finished my build one week go, and today was my first riding :twisted:.
Everything works fine so far, the only issue is in one hour chain pop off 3 times :roll: ,
are you using chain guides?? any recomendation??
Attachments
pic1.jpg
pic2.jpg

User avatar
John Bozi   1 MW

1 MW
Posts: 1861
Joined: Apr 09 2013 1:46am
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Contact:

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by John Bozi » Nov 25 2017 10:25pm

I have never dropped my chain but its a single sprocket at back.... You can solve your issue with usual bicycle knowledge... google

nio88   10 mW

10 mW
Posts: 31
Joined: Sep 15 2014 4:00pm

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by nio88 » Nov 26 2017 10:32am

John, I know I can google :), just to know if other user had same issue if not use single sprocket...

User avatar
efMX Trials Electric Freeride   100 kW

100 kW
Posts: 1123
Joined: Feb 15 2013 4:43pm

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by efMX Trials Electric Freeride » Nov 26 2017 10:58am

a clutched rear derailleur and a narrow wide crank chain ring can help a lot with chain retention over rough terrain.. search those terms here on the sphere or look up offroader s qulbix raptor builds..
nio88 wrote:
Nov 26 2017 10:32am
John, I know I can google :), just to know if other user had same issue if not use single sprocket...
some ride & sk8 videos:
metacafe.com/channels/NATAS666DAMIEN
http://www.youtube.com/natas666damien
i have nothing for sale.. :)

User avatar
jansevr   1 kW

1 kW
Posts: 470
Joined: May 27 2011 6:58pm
Location: Milwaukee, WI, U.S.

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by jansevr » Nov 26 2017 12:26pm

Your chain might be too loose? You could try taking out a few links to increase tension and to help prevent the chain from jumping around. Nice build! I like the all black.

nio88   10 mW

10 mW
Posts: 31
Joined: Sep 15 2014 4:00pm

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by nio88 » Nov 26 2017 12:40pm

Thanks guys, I'm going to see how I can fix it!! remove some links could be an option, but I think the best option would a chain guide, but I'm trying to find a mounting plate for a 83mm BB...
Anyway thanks for the ideas...

marc928   1 µW

1 µW
Posts: 1
Joined: Nov 26 2017 1:19pm

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by marc928 » Nov 27 2017 7:00am

Hello everybody,

I'm new on the forum.
I have already an electric bike with a bbs02 36V. To have something wilder and more powerful I plan to buy a complete Q76R Adrenaline (with just a assembly work).
I would like to know if some people from this forum did it ?
Because I’m not a bike specialist I want probably to do the assembly with a motorbike/bike mechanical, even he never touch an electric bike.
Can you confirm that the assembler doesn’t need special electric bike knowledge ?
I would like to read the instructions (text and/or video) before to order to know more what to do and how to do it. Somebody can provide me this informations ? It is not accessible on the Qulbix website.
Is it possible to remove easily and quickly the front wheel ?
Is it a quality close from the Stealth bike quality ?
It would be nice to try one but it seems difficult to even watch one here in Spain.

Thanks

nio88   10 mW

10 mW
Posts: 31
Joined: Sep 15 2014 4:00pm

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by nio88 » Nov 27 2017 3:39pm

Hi Marc,
I think if you buy a complete bike, it´s going to come already assembly, you wouldn´t have to do anything, but if someone has bought a complete one, might confirm you.
Remove the front wheel would be as easy as any other bike. If you have quick release it would be easier, if not, an Allen key would be enough.
I haven´t seen any stealth yet, so I can´t compare :)

redline2097   100 W

100 W
Posts: 161
Joined: Jun 18 2015 1:43am

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by redline2097 » Feb 04 2018 5:43am

Any cheaper alternatives to Schlumpf high speed drive that fits the 83mm bb of Qulbix 76 frame?

User avatar
scrambler   100 W

100 W
Posts: 256
Joined: Aug 10 2015 7:23pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area (USA)

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by scrambler » Feb 04 2018 12:34pm

A cheaper version of the schlumpf is the ATS speed drive. It is made under license, so it is the same.
http://www.ats-speeddrive.com/tpl/all_sd_tc.html
www.ats-speeddrive.com/pdf/WHB.sd.engl.pdf

The manual above does mention a version that would fit an 83mm BB (to confirm with them)
"Extra-wide bottom brackets (wider than 73mm) and wide chainlines (for Rohloff Speedhub)
The standard speed-drive is designed for bottom bracket widths of 67.573mm. For special bottom brackets wider than 73mm, we offer a version with an axle 10mm longer. Also the gear housing attached the bottom bracket, is 10mm longer.
When ordering the version for wide bottom brackets, please mention your bottom bracket’s exact width so that we can include a pair of spacers as needed. This ”+10mm” version is also used for ”Long John” transportation bikes and certain Moulton and Birdy folding bikes (see next page)."

User avatar
Maderensto   10 mW

10 mW
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 14 2018 6:27pm
Location: Madrid

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame kits

Post by Maderensto » Jun 14 2018 7:09pm

Hello everyone, first of all, thanks for all the information you have shared.
Forgive me, I use a translator, I have a basic level of English.
I present to you my humble, but powerful Q76r 20s 2p (multistars 4s 10A). I acquired the frame and motor (Qs205 v2) in the pre-order, two and a half years ago.
IMG_20180614_210431(1).jpg
The reason why I register in the forum is because soon I want to update my battery to the maximum (cells 18650 20s 14p). I like to travel more than 100km, my record was 135km in eco mode, helping a lot with pedaling, definitely getting too tired. I need to go like a gentleman (Boost mode + 50kmh on dirt roads without pedaling), not like a grandmother (eco mode 15-20kmh pedaling).
I have doubts about which would be the best design for the battery, I really like the design of Offroader but I think it could be better to use a sheet of 0,3mm (Nickel) joining the 14 cells, With the same position of cables welded to the nickel used by Offroader in its design (7x16awg), one cable every 2 cells
You understand me?
What do you think about it?
Would there be a better way to make it so that the balance is perfect?
2014: B.Fold3 MOD+Bafang BPM (Front motor) 48v500w + ku123 + 48v12A Lifepo4 48v.
2016: Qulbix Q76r + Qs205v2 (3000w) + 76v20A (multistar lipos 10A 4s (20s 2p)).

User avatar
Rix   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 6424
Joined: Mar 29 2012 11:26am
Location: Fallon NV USA

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame kits

Post by Rix » Jun 14 2018 9:52pm

Maderensto wrote:
Jun 14 2018 7:09pm
Hello everyone, first of all, thanks for all the information you have shared.
Forgive me, I use a translator, I have a basic level of English.
I present to you my humble, but powerful Q76r 20s 2p (multistars 4s 10A). I acquired the frame and motor (Qs205 v2) in the pre-order, two and a half years ago.
IMG_20180614_210431(1).jpg
The reason why I register in the forum is because soon I want to update my battery to the maximum (cells 18650 20s 14p). I like to travel more than 100km, my record was 135km in eco mode, helping a lot with pedaling, definitely getting too tired. I need to go like a gentleman (Boost mode + 50kmh on dirt roads without pedaling), not like a grandmother (eco mode 15-20kmh pedaling).
I have doubts about which would be the best design for the battery, I really like the design of Offroader but I think it could be better to use a sheet of 0,3mm (Nickel) joining the 14 cells, With the same position of cables welded to the nickel used by Offroader in its design (7x16awg), one cable every 2 cells
You understand me?
What do you think about it?
Would there be a better way to make it so that the balance is perfect?
Hola amigo, beautiful build. You have some quality components there and the only way to improve your build would be to have more battery for more range/performance. No doubt building a battery like Offroader has would be the best improvement. Again, your bike looks beautiful. Any chance of you making some videos of you riding in Spain?

User avatar
Offroader   10 MW

10 MW
Posts: 2185
Joined: Sep 08 2013 9:03pm
Location: USA

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by Offroader » Jun 15 2018 9:08am

I would definitely build the same 280 cell battery I have using the same red Sanyo 3500 MAH cells I use. This pack is amazing, and seems to be holding up over the last two years. It has only lost less than 1% of its capacity last year also. It has so much capacity and gives you so much range.

I have never hooked up my BMS or even put the cells in parallel yet, but you should do that. Last time I checked not a single cell has come out of balance.

Just a heads up, it looks like you have the 1st version of the Q76R, that is the same frame as mine. You will have a difficult time getting 280 cells in the frame, you will have to glue the cells together while compressed into the frame in order for it to fit 280 cells properly. You may also need to slightly file your frame opening also in areas to fit the pack easier. Qulbix did a revision on the Q76R and it now has a bigger frame opening and probably much easier to fit a 280 cell pack.

By the way your stickers look you have the old version, or the same as me. While 280 cells will fit, you have to really compress the cells together and glue both sides of the cells like this through the hole the cells make when held together. Its a difficult job to do. One tip is I would make sure you cover all the terminals (negative and positive) of the cells with Kapton tape so you do not have to clean glue from the cell contacts when you have to weld the nickel to them. I spent hours cleaning off glue from the top of my cells, and you have to be careful because alcohol will instantly kill the bond of the glue. Alcohol is actually the best way to break away cells after they are glued together.

The other thing you should take into consideration is that .3 nickel strip is very difficult to weld if its pure nickel. I couldn't weld it properly because once welded I could pull the nickel off very easily. You would really need to use .2 nickel strip max, and I used .2 nickel strip. You could also possibly weld two strips of .15 nickel. You need to test your welder and see if you can weld .3 nickel, just pull on the strip hard after you weld it and it should be very firm. If you can pull it off then its no good. When I used .3 nickel I was able to pull the strip off easily. With .2 or .15 it was very difficult and the nickel would tear the cell apart.

There is much debate on how much balancing the current draw through the cells matter. Some say it doesn't, some say it does. You may not really need to be as precise as I have with balancing the current draw. It is very time consuming to build the pack the way I did, but it definitely stays balanced as I have not put my cells in parallel yet and my cells have stayed perfectly balanced. You may only need to use wires on certain areas of the pack and not others.
If you do it like I have and solder each of those wires to the strips, make sure you use a fan and have very good ventilation as you will be breathing in a lot of solder. I would also get a good soldering iron like a Hakko 951 or if you are in europe a JBC station.

I wish I had my hakko 951 when I built my 280 cell pack.

User avatar
Maderensto   10 mW

10 mW
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 14 2018 6:27pm
Location: Madrid

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by Maderensto » Jun 15 2018 9:55am

Thank you very much for the quick response Offroader and Rix , i am very grateful!
I bought a kweld, with the kcap capacitors, I'm waiting for it to be sent to me.
I hope that at 100J he makes good welds on 0.3mm of pure nickel.(sheet) Not in strips.
If not, I'll have to use 0.2mm, but it is not what I would like.
I had planned to buy Nkon Vtc6 cells, just because I love their download rate, although I am still in the decision phase. I also like Sanyo, but the download that I want to use would be a crime.
In Boost mode I would be using them at 2C-3C with bursts of phase amplifier that would reach 8C-9C.
I think that up to 10C of discharge for specific peaks is good since the cell is 30C (manufacturer) Or better said 15C for a more correct use.

I have been reading and rereading for 3 years, both the topics of the qulbix, as the adapto and welder kweld. I'm not a novice, but I have my doubts. I lie, in spot welding if I am.

Rix thanks for the feedback! I will try to make a video, but not in the short term, I still do not have a sports camera, and with my mobile I am scared and it is not their thing. I have to save money for the cells first, which are not cheap at all. Pure nickel does not fall short either, it is also expensive.

Offroader
(You may also need to slightly file your frame opening also in areas to fit the pack easier)
I do not understand very well
Be careful with these cells that touch the frame a bit, ensure the perfect fit, right?
Is this what you mean?
pack high points_zpsibc8chub (1).jpg
2014: B.Fold3 MOD+Bafang BPM (Front motor) 48v500w + ku123 + 48v12A Lifepo4 48v.
2016: Qulbix Q76r + Qs205v2 (3000w) + 76v20A (multistar lipos 10A 4s (20s 2p)).

User avatar
Offroader   10 MW

10 MW
Posts: 2185
Joined: Sep 08 2013 9:03pm
Location: USA

Re: Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Post by Offroader » Jun 15 2018 1:07pm

Maderensto, those VT6 do look decent. they are rated at 30amps discharge with a 3120 capacity. The Sanyo cells I use are rated at 3500 at only 10 amps discharge. The Sanyo cells really only have about 3400 MAH. The VT6 do have a lot of capacity at 3120.

If you use them at 8-9C you are with 14 of them in parallel having a burst wattage of around 30,000 watts. WOW.
What controller will you be using because if you are using a Max-E you are limited to 14,000 watts.
I would say that for me my pack has way too much capacity and I would have considered those VT6 cells to get the full wattage from my Max-e of 14,000. However, I currently only use 8KW max on my max-e, and don't even max out my wattage potential with the Sanyo cells.

When you build your pack you will first have to place all 280 cells in the frame. Then you will have to take paper or cardboard and wedge it around the edges of the pack to really keep the pack extremely tight. This makes gluing it difficult and messy, you will have to glue through the little holes and squirt glue down between the cells when the pack is squeezed together. The glue will only go about half way so you will have to glue both sides.

If you take a look at how I did my pack in the picture, you will see that I wedged paper all around the pack to squeeze all the cells together tightly. Then I glued them when they were all tight like that.

Image

In this picture you can see the mess I made getting the glue on the cell contacts because I had to wipe away the excess glue, this was extremely time consuming to remove and took me hours. You need to place Kapton tape over the contacts to avoid this, or even scotch tape will work but will leave residue behind that will need to be removed without getting alcohol on the glue that is between the cells as that will weaken the glue bond holding the cells together. SO you have to use a Qtip and be very careful. Just put tape to cover the contacts before gluing.

Actually, the reason for the glue mess was because after I glued the cells together there was glue sticking up that would have gotten in the way of the nikel strip, I had to use a hot clothes Iron to melt the glue flat as there was no way to easily cut it down. When I used the hot clothes iron it melted the glue over the contacts as you can see in the pictures.

A tip to glue the pack is I used a small metal round rod to push the glue down through the hole. What I did was squirt glue into the hole, then used a metal rod to push it down about half way, then squirt more glue, then pushed it down again. This is because the glue will not fill the whole easily unless you push it down.

Image

Even with the pack being built squeezed tightly, I still had to very slightly file down certain areas of the frame so that the cells would fit in without rubbing the edges of the frame opening when inserting the pack. This is only when inserting the pack as once it gets through the frame opening there is plenty of room. I also reinforced the edges with 3M paint protection film and painted them so they are not so easily seen, but if you zoom into the picture you can see where I circled in red, where I filed with a rounded file the edges of the opening where certain cells were rubbing when inserting the pack.

What will happen is if you rub the edges of the cells when inserting the pack into the frame it is possible that you may short different areas of the pack if you cut into the outside of the cell. Imagine shorting two separate parallel groups through the frame while inserting it??? The 18650 cell shrink wrap can easily be cut into if you are forcing a pack through the frame opening and rubbing against the edges.
https://i.imgur.com/xkTALNF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0zxH53O.jpg

Image

Image

Post Reply