I'm not sure what exactly you mean with the additional cell module with 8 cells... but either way, the 14s2p is what is coming out - for the kettle/bottle replacement.Johne-bike wrote:Is it not possible to make the same style of bottle holder to accept an additional cell module with 8 cells to make a 14s2p pack?
Using say 3500mah cells, a 52v 7ah bottle pack would be a great, neat, lightweight and compact design with rapid chargeability to provide enough power and range for short, daily runs to the shops, etc..No worries of big packs holding excess charge for short daily runs etc.. Keep the bigger packs for days with the long rides planned. Then this little chap could come along as my emergency back up.. And handy for any testing or servicing work requiring battery power whilst in the workshop..
Would that be something of interest to the many ebike riders with 48/52v bikes? I would definitely be up for one of those..!
No kickstand as of now.BeachRider2016 wrote:Wow what a deal! one lucky buyer.
Eyebyesickle, do you have a kickstand or dual stand for this frame?
Hi, thanks for the feedback. Yeah, there are a couple people making weld-free packs, but nothing that quite suited my needs/taste... I am very happy with the progress on these... I have been keeping it a little quieter lately... but soon I will make some more noise about it.scrambler wrote:Hi
Just found out about this thread, and Happy to see someone is finally working on a weld free battery system.
I had been wondering why no one had done this for a while
A few questions / remarks:
1) I agree with macribs that if you could have a separate thread for the battery it would be best. Hopefully you can find a solution with the mods here.
2) May be it is me, but I find the first post with the turnkey bike price confusing.
It says Turn key $3,000 with a picture of a bike that is complete, then below it lists Options/cost breakdown, and it is unclear what is included and what is optional.
At first I thought what is red is options and what is green is included, but then there is no way to know what is included for the items that only have red prices.
For example, I would assume the complete bike include the wheels, a battery, a motor, saddle, front fork etc... but these only show a red $#, so what is the included configuration for all these?
I would suggest that under specs you list the detail configuration of all the components that are included. If possible give more details about manufacturer and model of the included elements like the fork, shock, brakes, controller etc...
Then have an "Options" list Only, for components meant to replace some of the included components or additional ones.
3) I may have missed it, but I did not see mention nor found a Website (re-cycles.com already used for something else).
I was wondering if you have one, or are planning one?
In any case keep up the good work.
$3000 is the cheapest version of the complete bike. With the smallest size battery and bicycle wheels.scrambler wrote:Thank you for the quick answer.
Still not clear on question two
Does the base price of $3000 actually is for a complete bike, or just a starter kit to which you have to add all the red items, like the frame, the battery, the seat post etc...
If so the minimum price I could come up with would be $6000 (3000 + the cheapest of all the necessary options). Is that right?
If the $3,000 is for a complete bike, then it is not clear what are the base components already included in there that have some red prices next to them.
Sorry if I am being thick
I am not sure why you think it would take that long. The manufacturing is pretty much the same if not simpler, the performance better, the cost per W lower...macribs wrote:@scrambler one thing is showing off new batteries @eurobike, a whole other ball game is getting production ramped up high enough so that the new cells are actually hitting the market. I suppose you can get the new cells if you pay an arm and a leg but I think there will be many moons before the majority of us are riding 20700's or 21700 cells. And here at ES we got a huge crowed of early adapters and tech savvy people, yet I would be surprised to see those cells spread wide even in a couple of years from now due to price.
If you are close enough to your own frame, then it make sense not to bother too much with the manufacturer I guess.eyebyesickle wrote:I will address some of the finer details with our own models. These chinese frames are just meant to be strong, and decently priced (cheapest on the market...).
Yeah, I think it would be simple enough to modify the frame to accept a kickstand. I would make one myself, but saving it for our own frames we are designing...BeachRider2016 wrote:I searched high and low for a compatible kickstand but no luck. Either the stand you suggested, i think if the bike is pushed back a bit the pedal will just give, or drill a hole through the middle of the swing arm to put a long bolt through for a normal kickstand.
Maybe even an aluminum bracket to go sideway for the side kickstand.
Anyway, I will try to make it work. Thanks for the suggestion.
If i havent had the frame, heck yea I will definitely take your sale price!!! Then paint it fluorescent PINK ! The ladies will drop their blouse any second after seeing it, lol.
Someone needs to hop on that frame asap.
Good stuff. I have been looking into some of this already, but the organization helps a lot... I would like to comment more, but I am keeping it very hush partly per my agreement with some collaborators... so I will try to keep my big mouth shut about any more details!scrambler wrote:If you are close enough to your own frame, then it make sense not to bother too much with the manufacturer I guess.eyebyesickle wrote:I will address some of the finer details with our own models. These chinese frames are just meant to be strong, and decently priced (cheapest on the market...).
But for yours, I would say keep it the slimmest that can accommodate 2/3kWh
On a separate note, I love the fact that you cherish a fixed distance between BB and rear axle to allow for the cleanest chain - tensioner free system, please keep that whatever configuration you decide for
Now in order to have a simple chain system without tensioner, yet still have enough gearing for pedal assist on a wide enough speed range, you may want to offer the option of the ATS speed drive (http://www.ats-speeddrive.com/tpl/all_sd_tc.html) which is the more affordable version of the Schlumpf.
I think that for Ebikes, The speed drive with a single freewheel at the back and no chain tensioner is cleanest while offering good PAS coverage possiblity.
Speaking of PAS, I am very interested in bikes that can work in true pedal assist modes, so they can both provide the thrills associated with regular biking, and the one associated with light motorcycles. For that, I think torque based sensor are widely superior to cadence only sensor.
If you do not already know about it, you may want to have a look at the BEAMts sensor. It is a Torque sensor that measures the tension in the pedaling chain, and applies throttle proportional to the pressure on the pedals, which is the most natural and intuitive pedal assist you can get (super human feel).
It is a throttle pass through system, so very easy to implement and relatively cheap, It self calibrates, but they also have a programming tool for it.
Below are a few links about it.
SantamonicaEV, the developers:
User feedback thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=67086