DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Soldering

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VRUZEND
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DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Soldering

Post by VRUZEND » Apr 02, 2017 9:38 am

Hey Guys,

This is my first post here. We have designed a new product that completely does away with the need to spot weld or solder batteries. Its a one of a kind product that’s patented and extensively tested. We are from VRUZEND, part of Ruzen Inc.

The kit offers a level of quality, flexibility and reliability not found elsewhere. All one needs to do is place the cells in the caps provided and make the connections.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Pxq4Au5iuc

The video is in detail and shows how the kit can be utilized to make the whole process of making a battery pack simple and hassle free.

The part list is as follows
1. 104 Battery terminal caps with the internal contact pre assembled. (At least 104. We make sure that every pack has a few extra)
2. 135 bus bars
4. 6 U clamp terminal strips (To make the positive and negative connections)
5. 104 nuts (to secure the connections.At least 104. We make sure that every pack has a few extra))
6. 6 zip ties/cable ties (to further secure the pack once you are done making it)

For more details you can visit our website http://www.vruzend.com http://www.ruzen.in

http://www.vruzend.com is a one stop battery shop. Apart from the kit a lot of other accessories too can be sourced directly from there. USA and North American customers in general can purchase directly from http://www.vruzend.com. Other international clients can fill out the order form at http://vruzend.com/international-orders/

The FAQ section at http://vruzend.com/faq/ will be of great help just in case you have some doubts in mind. If its not answered in the FAQ section you can always contact us.

We ship across the globe and offer multiple shipping options.

We have shipping warehouses in USA, India, Netherlands (https://eu.nkon.nl/vruzend-diy-battery-kit.html ) and UK(https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vruzend-DIY- ... 2856380838).

The quality of the material used is top notch and unparalleled. We are constantly improving and evolving. We give great importance to customer feedback's and make sure to incorporate the recommended changes.

The bus bars are 8mm broad 0.5mm thick made of high grade SS. They have handled currents up to 3.5AH with ease. Have tested them with LG HE2, Samsung 25R and the likes.The cap legs are longer than the bolt ends sticking out from the cap. So there is sufficient insulation.

There is a reason behind using SS over other metals. SS apart from being low on cost offers a kind of strength Copper,Brass,Nickle and carbon steel (CS) do not. This thing has been under R&D since December 2015.

For answers to some regularly asked questions can be found at http://vruzend.com/faq/

Some of the tips I would like to give you before hand are

To help make your battery building process go as smoothly as possible, a complete set of instructions for working with the Vruzend battery building kit is available in the Tech Center on our website (http://vruzend.com/tech-center/). For now though, here is an abbreviated set of instructions to get you started and familiarize yourself with the Vruzend system.

1) Start by planning out your battery. Drawing out both sides of your battery on paper first can help make the building process easier.

2) Begin by making columns of caps by sliding caps together with the dovetails and sockets oriented in the same direction. For example, for a 10s5p (10 cells in series and 5 cells in parallel) battery, you’ll make 20 sets of 5 cell columns, enough for the tops and bottoms of 10 columns.

3) Start pressing your cells into the caps in one column. You can start by simply using your hands. Then place the second column on the other side of the cells and align it so all the cells are straight. Ensure that the dovetails in the top set of caps are facing the opposite direction in relation to the bottom caps (as demonstrated here: https://youtu.be/9Pxq4Au5iuc?t=4m57s) It is important to ensure that the cells don’t enter the caps crooked.

4) At this point, the easiest method to compress the caps onto the cells is the clamp method, where the cells are clamped between two pieces of wood to distribute the force of the clamps. Once the distance from one end of the caps to the opposite cap is approximately 90 mm, you’re done compressing! One winter assembly tip: cold weather can make it more difficult to slide your cells into the caps. The caps have a slightly conical cavity to accommodate the variation in diameter of different brands of 18650s. Cold weather can make the caps’ cavity contract slightly smaller, making it very tight to press a cell in. We recommend keeping your caps at room temperature during assembly, of at least 70-75°F or 20-25°C. If you live in a cold area, consider leaving them near the heater before assembly to make the cell insertion process go smoother.

5) Once you have created all of your columns, you should check to confirm that you have proper connection with the terminals by measuring the voltage of the threaded cap terminals. If you can read your cell’s voltage, then the terminal is in place.

6) Next, connect your columns together, as demonstrated here: https://youtu.be/9Pxq4Au5iuc?t=6m37s

7) Now you can make your busbar connections. Double check your planned battery layout that you designed in Step 1, then place your busbars on the threaded terminals according to your battery layout. Be very careful to not misplace your busbars, as you could cause a short circuit by touching the wrong battery terminals together. If you see a spark when you lay down a busbar, this is the wrong location for that busbar!

8) Add your nuts and tighten them down on top of the busbars using a 5.5 mm socket driver. At this point, you can also add any BMS or balance wires https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4DGDkwFr54, as well as your charge and discharge wires. The smaller wires can either be wrapped around the threaded post or just clamped under the busbars. The discharge and charge wires should use the included brass wire clamps, either by soldering them or clamping them in place.

We have a lot of exciting stuff coming up and will keep you posted.

Thanks!
Last edited by VRUZEND on Dec 05, 2017 8:07 am, edited 4 times in total.

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Matador
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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 10:48 am

Subscribed. And I've already placed an order for 4 kits :mrgreen: Looking forward to it !

The explainatory video :


Let these photos appear ! (I shrinked them dow under 900 pixel wide and under 512Kb size so they can be seen without clicking) :
Photo1.jpg
Photo2.jpg
Photo3.jpg
Last edited by Matador on Apr 02, 2017 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by mlt34 » Apr 02, 2017 10:54 am

Very interesting, keep up the good work.
Are you planning your first electric bicycle conversion? I wrote a book that teaches beginners everything they need to know about building their own ebike.
Then I wrote the book (literally) on building custom lithium batteries.
I also write for EbikeSchool.com, a site that does mainly how-to style articles and other informational write-ups. Check out our youtube channel for great how-to battery building videos.
Lastly, I run www.Vruzend.com, which sells solderless 18650 battery kits, 18650 cells, li-ion chargers, BMSs and more!


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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by leelorr » Apr 02, 2017 11:30 am

When someone gets their battery built and has used it on an off road bike, please post how it worked for you. I wonder about intermittent battery contacts on rough terrain, but am pretty excited about this product.

Is the 100 battery "caps" in a kit what is needed for 50 cells?

Thanks,
Lorrin

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by fechter » Apr 02, 2017 11:55 am

Yes, you need to state the price here, and the location where they would ship from.
"One test is worth a thousand opinions"

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 12:34 pm

VRUZEND,

I'd be curious to know the specification on the motor/controller/battery you used. More specifically, I wonder I much volts, amps and watts you where imposing on you battery with your scooter setup ?

Also, I see two pack of 13S4P LG HE2 cells (2500mAh, 20A capable cells). Are the two packs in parallele (48V, 20Ah ; 160A capable) or in series (96V, 10Ah ; 80A capable) .

BTW I love your design.... I will test it as it is !
But I think such a great design deserves a copper bussbars swapping IMHO... With all the cells you got on your scooter packs, you could theoretically push 7.68 kiloWatts out of the battery for short burst :shock:
Hence the benefice of copper lowered resistance !

One other aspect I wondered about (althought it requires more pieces and thus is more costly), could it be conceivable to make the metal contacts in the plastic teminal caps with nickel-plated Copper (Copper is a great conductor, but it's too soft for spring action, Nickel plating protects Copper from oxidation of Copper, copper oxide being a bad conductor). And then place a springsteel spring within the plated copper contact. In that way, the copper might be soft, but the spring which is steel assure constant pressure. Also I could see the use of brass bolts and nuts as brass is much better conductor than SS or bare nickel, while still being hard enough to be usable as durable screw threads.

It would seem like a lot of work in R&D, but I'm pretty sure these mod could make what is already a very appealing most probably awesome product, totally unbeatable solution that people would be willing to pay extra for !

I'm thinking of this for the Next-Gen High-amp rated Vruzend :
Next-Gen High-Amp Vruzend_2.jpg
Next-Gen High-Amp Vruzend_2.jpg (169.63 KiB) Viewed 7714 times
What do you think ?

I'm talking about these springs (pics) : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1237600
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en ... ND/2439265
Or watherver springs are adequate (offering high pressures !, especially for big packs)

Also nickel plating copper cans easily be done buy industrial means. Although I've done it the homemade way myself in the past, with good results as you can see on these pics : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1235640

What do you think ?
Last edited by Matador on Apr 02, 2017 2:25 pm, edited 12 times in total.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by VRUZEND » Apr 02, 2017 12:44 pm

mlt34 wrote:Very interesting, keep up the good work.
Thanks a lot Micah!

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 12:47 pm

Guys, it's probably night in Mumbai right now, but personally, I ordered 4 kits (400 terminal caps so for 200 cells worth of).

From my experience,
Each kit was 19.00 USD, but I believe price varies according to the highly fluctuating values of metals and plastics on the market where the kits are being produced.
The shipping will vary depending on your country and the shipping method you choose of course

Shipping 4 KITS from India TO CANADA, I was given these options :
I've choose the quickest method : FedEx for 53$. There was also Speed Post India for 48$

To my knowledge there is no Canadian retailer of these kit as of yet...

Another buyer got shipping from India TO SWEDEN : OPTIONS : India post 16$ (20-25 days) ; Speed Post India 22$ (15 days) Express channel will be more expensive (4-6 days)
REF : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1276336

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by VRUZEND » Apr 02, 2017 12:54 pm

Matador wrote:VRUZEND,

I'd be curious to know the specification on the motor/controller/battery you used. More specifically, I wonder I much volts, amps and watts you where imposing on you battery with your scooter setup ?

Also, I see two pack of 13S4P LG HE2 cells (2500mAh, 20A capable cells). Are the two packs in parallele (48V, 20Ah ; 160A capable) or in series (96V, 10Ah ; 80A capable) .

BTW I love your design.... I will test it as it is !
Bu I think such a great design deserves a copper bussbars addition IMHO... With all the cells you got on your scooter packs, you could theoretically push 7.68 kiloWatts out of the battery for short burst :shock:
Hence the benefice of copper lowered resistance !

One other aspect I wondered about (althought it requires more pieces and thus is more costly), could it be conceivable to make the metal contacts in the plastic teminal caps with Nickel-plated copper (coppers a great conductor, but it's to soft for sping action, nickel plating protects copper from oxidation of copper, copper oxide being a bad conductor). And then place a springsteel spring within the plated copper contact. In that way, the copper might be soft, but the spring which is steel assure constant pressure. Also I could see the use of brass bolts and nuts as brass is much better conductor than SS or bare nickel.

It would seem like a lot of work in R&D, but I'm pretty sure these mod could make what is already a very appealing most probably awesome product, totally unbeatable solution that people would be willing to pay extra for !

I'm thinking of this for the Next-Gen High-amp rated Vruzend :
Next-Gen High-Amp Vruzend_2.jpg
What do you think ?

I'm talking about these springs (pics) : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1237600
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en ... ND/2439265
Or watherver springs are adequate (offering high pressures !, especially for big packs)

Also nickel plating copper cans easily be done buy industrial means. Although I've done it the homemade way myself in the pas, with good results as you can see on these pics : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1235640

What do you think ?
Hey thanks for the kind words and the amazing insight. The work is already on to incorporate some changes. This is our first model of the kit, rest assured we have successive models with various add ons and improvements already in the works and will be out pretty soon. Appreciate your model design though! Thanks.

As for the battery pack, it was parallel connected to pump out 160 Amps. The charger (3Ah) and controller (1500w) are self made. The motor is a 1200w motor that too self made.

As for the pricing and shipping, I have edited the post and added the details. Yes as you said correctly the price is $19 as of now. We buy materials in stock so as to keep the price constant for lengthy periods. Shipping prices vary with the destination and the number of kits ordered. Infact even kit prices vary sometimes if some add ons are included.

Once more thanks!

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by VRUZEND » Apr 02, 2017 1:17 pm

leelorr wrote:When someone gets their battery built and has used it on an off road bike, please post how it worked for you. I wonder about intermittent battery contacts on rough terrain, but am pretty excited about this product.

Is the 100 battery "caps" in a kit what is needed for 50 cells?

Thanks,
Lorrin
The design is for military and police stealth E vehicles that would be used a lot on harsh roads. We have extensively tested it since December 2015. In the video if you see I placed the cells in one block and then inverted it and shake it so they fall off. They didn't. In fact they wouldn't no matter how hard you shake it. That's the perfect fitting and the built quality we offer.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by VRUZEND » Apr 02, 2017 1:21 pm

Matador wrote:Subscribed. And I've already placed an order for 4 kits :mrgreen: Looking forward to it !

The explainatory video :


Let these photos appear ! (I shrinked them dow under 900 pixel wide and under 512Kb size so they can be seen without clicking) :
Photo1.jpg
Photo2.jpg
Photo3.jpg
Thanks mate! forgot about shrinking them before uploading.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 1:34 pm

VRUZEND wrote: Hey thanks for the kind words and the amazing insight. The work is already on to incorporate some changes. This is our first model of the kit, rest assured we have successive models with various add ones and improvements already in the works and will be out pretty soon. Appreciate your model design though! Thanks.

As for the battery pack, it was series connected to pump out 160 Amps. The charger and controller are self made. The motor is a 1500w motor that too self made.

As for the pricing and shipping, I have edited the post and added the details. Yes as you said correctly the price is $19 as of now. We buy materials in stock so as to keep the price constant for lengthy periods. Shipping prices vary with the destination and the number of kits ordered. Infact even kit prices vary sometimes if some add ons are included.

Once more thanks!
160A so that means they are wired to give a 13S8P configuration.... So 1200W motor ! That's 25 amps on paralleled series.... Meaning it was tested at 3.5 amps per cell / aka terminal post.

I have to say i'm impressed. I didn't expect 3.5Amps in SS terminal.

I calculated a approximate resistance of 3 milliohms per terminal contact, meaning 0.037 watts (P = R x I^2) only per contact at 3.5 amps/cell. Since there is 208 contacts on you battery, that means only 8 watts is lost in heat from the pack.
Impressive !

If you were to pull 10amps per cell on the same pack though (for 80A output at 48V), that would mean 0.3W per contact. So for 208 contacts on your battery, that means 62W are lost in heat.
If you were pulling 20amps per cells (the max rating for your HE2 cells)(for 160A output at 48V), that would be 1.2W per teminal, so 250 W lost in heat for the 13S8P pack.
I have sony VTC4 cells, they are rated 30A per cells. If I were to push them to their max 30amp rating in a 13S8P (240A at 48V), that would be 2.7W per cell, so 562W would be lost. And then that resistance would be a problem...
But I dont plan to push my cells that hard. Worst case scenario I will impose 10A per cell max.

Of course, my calculations might be off since they are dependent on the form and shape of the terminal contacts, and I estimated that based on video images.

The bussbars though (in stainless) are 8mm wide x 0.5 mm thick x 2.5 cm long. So I estimated that each are 4.33 milliohms each.... So that adds to the lost energy in heat. The good news is, that's easy to swapp out for copper.
The Vruzend holders are totally awesome !

PS : For information on conductivity, resistivity values of different metals for further R&D, I like this very exhaustive table : http://eddy-current.com/conductivity-of ... sistivity/

EDIT : 1500W controller at 48V, so 31.25 AMPS on a 8P setup, that means the contacts were tested to work good at 4 amps per cell.
Last edited by Matador on Apr 02, 2017 2:32 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by macribs » Apr 02, 2017 1:52 pm

Seems like a very good for smaller packs and up to mid sized motors and battery packs, but I am not certain about big packs and lot of current draw for high power >12kw motors and > 200 A battery current draw. The lesser conduction in stainless steel and higher resistance might very well come into play - and create a heat loop. Leading to more resistance and even more heat.

And if heat is accumulating under high stress and high current draw stainless steel will be a much poorer heat conductor then copper.

Have you tested your solution on high current motors, like in repeatedly full acceleration from standstill, or slow steep climbing with >12 kw motors drawing > 200 battery A? Top spec'd cells like Samsung Q30, Sony Vtc 5 & 6 et el are high current cells for high current packs. Will you possible replace steel bus bar for copper upon request?
Last edited by macribs on Apr 02, 2017 1:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 1:52 pm

Also Poron foam could be used instead of BCC-ND spring.
Next-Gen High-Amp Vruzend_2.jpg
Next-Gen High-Amp Vruzend_2.jpg (169.63 KiB) Viewed 7593 times
I think the greatest strenght of the Vruzend is the fact that springyness is INDEPENDANT for each and every cells in contrary to most other solderless kits posted on the ES. Also, it is modular, enabling anyone to deseign their kit however they like.
Last edited by Matador on Apr 02, 2017 2:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 2:00 pm

macribs wrote:Seems ok for smaller packs but I am not certain about big packs and lot of current draw for high power >12kw motors and > 200 A battery current draw.
The lesser conduction in stainless steel and higher resistance might very well come into play - and create a heat loop. Leading to more resistance and even more heat. And if heat is accumulating under high stress and high current draw stainless steel will be a much poorer heat conductor then copper. And as heat increases so will resistance, causing even more heat and more increase in resistance. And that might turn into a nasty loop. Have you tested your solution on high current motors, like in repeatedly full acceleration from standstill, or slow steep climbing with >12 kw motors drawing > 200 battery A?
I also think think resistance might be an issue for very high power setups.
But for 20$, I can't expect to have eveything made in nickel plated-copper !
100 terminals for 19$ !! I think buying 200 black chinese holder with no contacts at all would probably cost the same price !

Honestly, I'm not even sure that any kind of solderless kit could be a good idea for such high power ranges anymore, whatever the metal ! Could strong spring pressure ever be as reliable as a weld for such heavy current draws ?

The following post is interesting though as it shows the use of copper... But the springyness in not really independant per cell : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 14&t=85912

Anyhow, enough criticizm on my part, I want to give this well though product a try. It's better than anything else I've ever seen, especially in that price range. Hence I ordered 4 kits.
Last edited by Matador on Apr 02, 2017 2:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by macribs » Apr 02, 2017 2:01 pm

BTW I love your design.... I will test it as it is !
Bu I think such a great design deserves a copper bussbars addition IMHO... With all the cells you got on your scooter packs, you could theoretically push 7.68 kiloWatts out of the battery for short burst :shock:
Hence the benefice of copper lowered resistance !
@Matador Do I read you correct if you propose a copper bus bar in addition to the steel? Current flow the way of less resistance? So a copper bus bar added would allow for maximum current draw without generating heat if copper is added? If copper bar is added will there be any galvanic corrosion between the copper and the material in connector spring? If not your solution should be a quick fix.

For high current draw multiple smaller packs connected via copper bus bars or thick wires would keep top to bottom pressure on each individual cell ensuring max connections and not shaking loose when riding dirt roads, single tracks or hitting bumps at high speed. Would there be any drawbacks to make several smaller pack and connect them together as needed with phat copper wires? I am thinking resistance, and what happens if one cell dies. Not to take neighbouring cells down with em.

The price is OK so I would even consider changing steel to copper or add additional copper myself - no problem. I just would need at solution that can take a lot of current without heat.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 2:09 pm

macribs wrote:
BTW I love your design.... I will test it as it is !
Bu I think such a great design deserves a copper bussbars addition IMHO... With all the cells you got on your scooter packs, you could theoretically push 7.68 kiloWatts out of the battery for short burst :shock:
Hence the benefice of copper lowered resistance !
@Matador Do I read you correct if you propose a copper bus bar in addition to the steel? Current flow the way of less resistance? So a copper bus bar added would allow for maximum current draw without generating heat if copper is added? If copper bar is added will there be any galvanic corrosion between the copper and the material in connector spring? If not your solution should be a quick fix.
Sorry, I didn't express myself well. I meant swapping the SS bussbar for copper ones, not adding the ones on top of the others !
I'a aware I'd need a stack of 45 Stainless-Steel busbars to equate the conductivity of just one C10100 Copper bussbar of the same dimensions.

Quick fix, well I dont know. Thing are always 10 times more involving than I originally think they should be.

Well, yeah, I didn't tought about the galvanic corrosion. But I wonder if Nickel-plating the copper bussbars could not help with that (I don't remember my redo-ox potential values very well from school... :oops: )

My rational was coming from a previous post where I tried to calculate overall pack resistances comparing ideal world, stainless steel and copper : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1276619

The contacts would probably be hard to redesign in copper with the proper springyness,
The bussbars could be a lot easier to swap. Swapping the SS busbars for Copper bussbars was my thought.
Current follows the path of least resistance, but series resistance add up... so internal resistance of cells, resistance of springy contact, the resistance of stainless steel bussbar.... at least a copper bussbar would reduce the overall resistance of the pack.

I really think we should test this product in the real world though...

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by 999zip999 » Apr 02, 2017 2:56 pm

Nice.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 3:32 pm

Apparently someone already got his hands on the product and started reviewing it... Nice indeed !



There are many other parts of this video on Youtube.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by brumbrum » Apr 02, 2017 4:26 pm

VRUZEND wrote:
mlt34 wrote:Very interesting, keep up the good work.
Thanks a lot Micah!
Hello,
Please could you state the external measurement of the caps, so i can work out what configuration will fit within my bike frame.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by macribs » Apr 02, 2017 4:34 pm

That dude either got to much spare time or have serious issues with bms or bulk chargers. Seems he pull the packs apart and charges each cell individually. Man i love the idea of a welderless 18650 assembly kit as much as the next guy, but breaking the pack apart for each charge cycle that is over the top.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by Matador » Apr 02, 2017 5:09 pm

macribs wrote:That dude either got to much spare time or have serious issues with bms or bulk chargers. Seems he pull the packs apart and charges each cell individually. Man i love the idea of a welderless 18650 assembly kit as much as the next guy, but breaking the pack apart for each charge cycle that is over the top.
LOL, So true !

DIMENSIONS ? Quote from Swe ( https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 5#p1276336 ):

Each cap is of 2cm x 2cm in dimension with a height of 2.5cm.
So if you join 10 in a row it will measure 20cm.

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by brumbrum » Apr 03, 2017 1:14 am

Thanks

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Re: DIY assembly kit for 18650 without spot welding/Solderin

Post by VRUZEND » Apr 04, 2017 2:30 am

brumbrum wrote:
VRUZEND wrote:
mlt34 wrote:Very interesting, keep up the good work.
Thanks a lot Micah!
Hello,
Please could you state the external measurement of the caps, so i can work out what configuration will fit within my bike frame.
Hey,
the cap is about 2.3cm in width. When placed on the cell on both the terminals the size is 2390x (like 18650)

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