only thing I changed on settings made front forks bit firmer so no so rapid fluctuation I like it a little on the stiff side for fluid bleed back rates helps slowing bottom out a bit will tweak more the bigger i hit ramps etc and cranked rear Spring shock collar down about 1.5 cm stroke won't be so close to top out does help bit bigger Spring may help in future will assess this as some springs to stiff can cause issue with flick rebound to quick for adjustments to handle and will excel rate fluid wear piston wear etc soft towards firm is nice unless can't handle my weight and compress to much flick rate will always be high so will monitor this one balance between spring and settings for bleed rates bit hard to find perfect balance as u prob know but setting right spring for travel with weight and jump heights first and speed settings second so not over rely on adjustments for piston speeds so not to wear Pistons performance over life needed for replacement rebuild kits etc, just my way I tune others have other ways to set but its handling ramp jumps so far depends how quick Spring looses tension and can compress to far bottom out top out etc, biggest thing for me is how quick oils wear in shock side, wears to quick degrades oils etc may look for stiffer Spring rates so can handle less stiff settings for fluid bleed settings, cause in my opinion if shock settings does all the work it wears degrades faster than necessary if u have the softer Spring but on other side if u beef up the spring too much it also wears degrades shock oils etc for having to catch more than necessary rate of rebound flick to high I want the spring to do most the work without getting flogged and losing tension, Spring can handle more abuse more regularly than shock to get the best life out of both but finding a good balance is a bit of trial and error to stiff a spring will blow the shock pretty quick so start soft on a spring and gradually increase while tweaking rebound compression rates so it's not working to much equals good balance for weight handling and character for rough and soft terrain feed back and feelings it's a weird art to find the sweet spot for ur weight and riding habit but I like it stiffer on the spring with mild to a bit firm on the shock settings so still get some rapid fluctuation between travel top and bottom but a big enough spring to handle some big jump ramps and hits, hope can understand this,
on a extra note for all owners not included in manual is location for front light plug socket to connect had to pull almost everything apart to find but now know and saved a lot of time on my wife's bike set up, learnt a bit of how to strip and reassemble so not that bad but would have loved it if found first place I looked which unfortunately for me was not the case. lesion learnt the hard way so if can save others the trouble. should be in the manual anyway..
pull two hex screws holding ignition switch combination usb cover, open batt compartment lid about 40-50deg angle, lift whole ignition usb assemble including plastic out in one go up at front tilt backwards once ignition wires clear front of frame case and pull slightly forwards usb and plastic body whole assembly will pull out without the need to unplug anything and won't get any damage, but be careful on wires, reverse previous step to reinstall simple, hang this with extra wires off one side, then can see into frame front and all wiring harness of which are a few, the mistical fuse too, u are looking for the big black rubber boot if u follow ur brake line electrical wires down into the frame they are the ones that go into this big black boot gently pull this as far up as u can it is connected to other stuff under this so be gentle, I got it up almost level with top of frame housing , hold brake wires and plug tops which this boot is for to cover connection of brake line connectors and gently slide wriggle boot down now brake line plugs are out of boot have a look with a torch into boot there is a third plug unused this is for ur front headlight
connect to headlight wiring plug should be a perfect fit now u have three connected plugs gently pull the big black boot back over all three connectors for protection and gently place all extra wiring back down into frame front area, when I did this I repositioned fuse case back towards air switch ( circuit breaker lol ) so I can access this just by lifting batt cover lid rather than have to pull ignition again
ur choice, reinstall main ignition usb cluster reverse above and be gentle on wires make sure nothing gets jammed is a bit tight on space u may have to poke some things around a bit to get a neat fit where nothing rubbing or squashed the main ignition cover plastic does not sit flush to frame at front but if u look before u pull any of this apart u will notice a 2 mm gap towards front of assembly anyway but it does firmly engage against the plastic( not loose) lucky had second bike to compare as this first time fitted didn't look quiet right but it is. and u should now have lights when u key on ignition however the lights these came with are very good I think for night activities but I think I will wire in a handle bar switch so have the option to turn off for day time running,
all this been said I do hope my information is right haven't seen this anywhere else and not in the manual but it is the right plug 2 pin, and there is nothing else spare anywhere, I looked, apart from at the back past the rear taillight there is another plug tucked under the seat but this is a three pin? would like to know what this is for maybe indicators? any thoughts anyone and at the front right below controller big for/five pin connector with matching plug blank cover maybe to talk to controller not sure on these two but would be nice to know indicators would be cool make it almost a legit road dirt bike if anyone knows what these two spare other plugs are for could pls share regards beefy