The rear assembly of the trike including the dropouts are aluminum so I don't think I can spread it to 142mm. It was hard to even get the 135 Crystalyte in there.mrbill wrote: ↑Feb 16 2018 12:20pmWest Coast Electric Cycles will soon have in stock a 45mm stator DD hub motor.
This one may be your best option, although I still doubt it will get you up your hill without your pedaling at least a little bit. I recommend the "4T" option.
You will need to check if your dropouts can spread to 142mm to get the wheel onto your trike, and you should check freewheel and disk brake compatibility. You will definitely need to use supplementary torque arms with this motor, one on each side.
Its a Crystalyte 3540 and there is really only room for one set of hubsink as far as I can tell.macribs wrote: ↑Feb 13 2018 12:12pmrberger maybe yet another hubsink is what you need? Didn't catch what motor you run, but if you got enough width between motor flanges to fit two hubsinks side by side that should help with the added thermal mass. Heat should be drawn even faster out from the motor. Worth trying as you say, depending on where thermal rollback happens the rollback could be hi risk. Better to try to avoid thermal rollback.
If you don't need all of the axle space for a big gear cluster, you can modify the axle to fit, by extending the flat part of the axle and "moving" the shoulders inward. I did this with a grinder but you could have it professionally milled if you prefer.
I would like to keep my gears if I can. When I'm not climbing the mountain, I like to have low electric assist and still pedal and I find the gears still help with that. Also so far with the motor I have, I need the gears to go up the hill still.
That is a very helpful data point. The only real difference is my total weight is another 25kg.Tats wrote: ↑Feb 17 2018 6:50amHi Robert, I too am using phaserunner hs3540 statorade hubsinks panniers and have some hills. Peak temp I’ve seen is in the 87-88 degrees range with my total weight about 125 kgs in an ambient 37 degrees. My temp doesn’t climb anywhere near as fast as yours tho even with zero pedalling and 1800w. Silly question time...your brakes aren’t binding are they?
I finally ran the test.SlowCo wrote: ↑Feb 12 2018 7:41amDo you have a Cycle Analyst on your trike? If so, just lift the rear wheel off the ground and see what the power consumption (Amps/Watts) is unloaded at top speed. Then post here or ask Grin to confirm if that is a wattage they also see when filled with enough Ferro Fluid. The no load power consumption should be a little higher with enough FF in the hub than without or too little.
Thanks for the confirmation. At this point, I'm pretty sure its the extra 25kg that puts me over the edge compared to others with similar setups like yours.
The ferrofluid is the path to the heat out, so using hubsinks without ferrofluid will have a minimal effect. You don't need to drill a hole in your motor, it is just easier to take out one side (take out 6 screws) adding the ferrofluid, then close. You can benefit of this procedure to take a look at your motor windings, they should not look cooked (enamel very shiny and even).BMXTiger wrote: ↑Oct 17 2018 11:32pmHey guys,
Was wondering if I could just use the heat sink and leave the feral fluid out. My hub motor only gets to a high temperature point where touching it will not burn your skin, but if you leave your finger on for a while, it will start to sting. I'm not a big fan of drilling a hole into the hub to put in FF, so if I only install the heatsink and no FF, will there be a noticeable temperature difference if I touch the motor with my finger? I know this sounds like a weird question, but I don't have any equipment to measure the temperature of my hub motor, so touching it is my only way of measurement.