Thats a low blow
Haah, merry christmas
Thats a low blow
Just to let you know my hubsink arrived to my home today in the U.K. Great service all the was from Australia.
I think you can get away with the Leaf or Edge 1500W 35mm stator motors if you're using Ferrofluid and Hubsinks. Ask the guys who use them here:
haha thanks man, as soon as i saw the image with the shifting spanners and pliers i was starting to worry about how you were going to manage the install, i love it lol
Or if there's room for it, one of those 90-degree "RV wheel" adapters that you leave on the tire's valve stem. I use those on my SB Cruiser's rear wheels, because there's already not enough room for the hose's locking flip-tab to move to fully locked without hitting the spoke flanges. (or I I manage to get it locked, I can't get it unlocked and off without letting a fair bit of air back out of the tire).mrbill wrote: ↑Feb 08, 2018 12:12 pmYou should be aware that if you install Hubsinks on a 406 wheel you will probably need a 90-degree pump-head adapter of the kind used to inflate tires on disk wheels as most standard pump heads will not fit between the valve and the Hubsinks. This is a minor hassle as these adapters do not make a good seal with the valve, making it difficult to inflate the tire to a specific pressure using the pump's pressure gauge.
I'm actually a bit concerned. I don't see brown fluid around the flange, but I recently found brown liquid on the some of the phase connectors and hall switch connectors from the motor. I don't see how it got there though unless it somehow migrated up the wires out of the motor. I am wondering if I've lost Statorade.mrbill wrote: ↑Feb 09, 2018 12:15 pmI would assume that Grin inserted the proper amount of Statorade to give the most cooling without adding adding too much rolling resistance. Unless you see evidence of the brown, oily fluid leaking out past the flange, through the insertion hole, or onto the rim, then the Statorade probably staying where it should.
I believe my over-temperature rollback range is the same.mrbill wrote: ↑Feb 09, 2018 12:15 pmI'm surprised your motor temperature is rising so quickly on that climb. Perhaps you are not contributing as much human power as you think. On grades over 12%, pedaling output can make a big difference in performance as the motor is already getting bogged down. Every 1 mph of additional climbing speed at less than 10 mph gives several percent greater efficiency. The stronger you are the more likely you will make it up the hill without stopping. Also, my over-temperature rollback range is 100-120C.
I'm looking forward to hearing your results! I'm hoping to have time to put on the Hubsinks this weekend.
Do you have a Cycle Analyst on your trike? If so, just lift the rear wheel off the ground and see what the power consumption (Amps/Watts) is unloaded at top speed. Then post here or ask Grin to confirm if that is a wattage they also see when filled with enough Ferro Fluid. The no load power consumption should be a little higher with enough FF in the hub than without or too little.
I'm using a Phaserunner 2.0 with a big heatsink on it. I'm logging the data from there too. The Phaserunner internal temp didn't get above 66 Deg C even on the warm day. I'll attach a graph with that and motor temp.
I don't think I could get far up the hill with 1000 watts. There are points when it drops to 1300 or 1500 watts I have a lot of problems going. I really have a breath stamina problem that may be due to a medical condition and / or the drugs they are giving me for Arrhythmia.mrbill wrote: ↑Feb 12, 2018 10:47 pmYour speeds are similar to mine, but your power is 50-75% higher. Some of that is due to weight difference, and some to pedaling input. I was pedaling pretty hard on the steep stuff.
With a larger drive wheel I have found that on long, steep (>12%) grades, the motor temperature may rise into the rollback zone. When the CA3 rolls back power, the temperature usually stabilizes at a lower power level, say 500-600 watts that I can hold indefinitely. Could you try your climb again, but this time set the power limit on your CA3 to 1000 watts? You will climb more slowly, but you may find you no longer need to stop for a cool-down, and your overall time may be lower. You may need trial and error to find the maximum power you can use on your hill and not be forced to stop for a cool-down.