markcycle wrote:For thin (less than .125") I use a combo bit its a drill bit and tap Greenlee makes it and its designed to work in a electric drill.
Ace hardware sells it
They save a lot of time
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/gr ... tml?ref=42
Yes use aluminum cutting oil else the aluminum gauls the tap binds and breaks
dnmun wrote:JD, you can use self tapping screws. if it is thick plate, predrill to applicable size and drive them in with a driver. most aggressive would be the joist hanger screws because they are super strong and have a serrated edge to cut into wood since they are self tapping but 1 1/4" long, depending on the load, you could likely use 1/2" zip screws with hex head, 5/16" driver. lotta luminum in there now. you should be able to use non vacuum booster brakes, i think the older vans did not have vacuum assist, or maybe you could find another master cylinder without assist and hack it in.
lawsonuw wrote:Instead of tapping 60 holes how about just ordering some thread cutting screws? (like McM #98273A115) When I've used 'em in plastic it helped to do some testing to find out what hole size worked best. (with the right size hole, sheet metal screws should also work)
pwbset wrote:Very cool! I may have missed it, but where do you get that copper strapping? All I've been able to find locally is plumbers "copper plated" strapping, which I'll use, but wonder about conductivity losses or whatever.
I also saw last weekend a "new" auto shop in the neighboring town that carries old Type II Westys! They are beautiful! Now all I need is a lot of money.
markcycle wrote:I can see that bus burning rubber any day now
Be carefull with 180VDC !!.. we want to keep you alive just 100VDC on my arm kick me strong!!!
Alot of Wh!... eee.. may i should replace with kWh !!!
Lapwing wrote:Yep, anything over 48V needs careful attention. Rubber linemans gloves are not overkill.
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