This is the access port in the bottom of the battery bay.



Nice look that's what I'm going for on the A2B chrome outer with black spokes and hubs.ElectricGod wrote:A little work done last night. I filed off the rough edges on these wheels. Then I masked off the new wheels and spray painted them. They are much cleaner now. I'll post some pics tonight. The spokes are black, but the hub and rim are still chrome.
Yeah pretty much all this has been replaced.Ianhill wrote:Looking sweet, Come along way from stock is there anything left other than the frame that's been modified and handle bars, everything else is new ?
just PM me...we can discuss offline from my build thread.chuckklr98 wrote:I desperately need help with my Currie Phat flyer. Think I need a new motor as the speed control may be toast. Nobody has a new motor in stock as they are ancient. Do you know of any source or are willing to wire mine for external speed control?
My sunwin controller seems to be doing this I swapped my motor a while back and I seem to be having a intermittent hall failure under load pulling off then after a minutes riding the problem has gone I may have a failing cap on the controller I'll have to strip it all back down again over winter after the metro has been finished and that has to get inline with the house but I'm nearly there with that so soon I'll be back on the bike I'm swapping the crank out and going single speed keep it simple as possible make it robust as the frame design allows.ElectricGod wrote:The scooter is all back together again. Up on blocks the motor works lots better now. There was a problem with the throttle running away due to misreading the halls and occasional rough running. That's all gone now. However, this controller has a weird issue where it doesn't like to run the motor under load at low RPM's. I can barely tap the throttle and it will run with me on the scooter, but do a normal take off and the motor cuts out after a second or so. If I push off and get going, then the motor runs strong. I have no idea what this dead band is at low RPM's or why it happens. It makes riding impossible since I can't just take off and go. Grrr! I was hoping it was all good to go with the new halls. A while back when I upgraded to 16S, I also upgraded the shunts to larger ones. The factory shunts couldn't carry enough current for what the other upgrades were capable of. Some time before that I replaced the mosfets with AOT290's, replaced the phase and battery wires and tested it out then and everything was fine. Anyway, I'm wondering my new shunts are to low. I went from shunt wire to copper wire so it's possible that the MCU at low motor RPM's can't read a voltage drop across the shunts and it stops as a result. I don't know...at the time I didn't have better shunts and now I do. Maybe I should just replace the copper wire for real .005 ohm shunts and see what happens. That means pulling the controller off again and taking it apart. LOL...sometimes I'm too lazy for my own good.
Get er built! I want to here about how well it does.Ianhill wrote:My sunwin controller seems to be doing this I swapped my motor a while back and I seem to be having a intermittent hall failure under load pulling off then after a minutes riding the problem has gone I may have a failing cap on the controller I'll have to strip it all back down again over winter after the metro has been finished and that has to get inline with the house but I'm nearly there with that so soon I'll be back on the bike I'm swapping the crank out and going single speed keep it simple as possible make it robust as the frame design allows.ElectricGod wrote:The scooter is all back together again. Up on blocks the motor works lots better now. There was a problem with the throttle running away due to misreading the halls and occasional rough running. That's all gone now. However, this controller has a weird issue where it doesn't like to run the motor under load at low RPM's. I can barely tap the throttle and it will run with me on the scooter, but do a normal take off and the motor cuts out after a second or so. If I push off and get going, then the motor runs strong. I have no idea what this dead band is at low RPM's or why it happens. It makes riding impossible since I can't just take off and go. Grrr! I was hoping it was all good to go with the new halls. A while back when I upgraded to 16S, I also upgraded the shunts to larger ones. The factory shunts couldn't carry enough current for what the other upgrades were capable of. Some time before that I replaced the mosfets with AOT290's, replaced the phase and battery wires and tested it out then and everything was fine. Anyway, I'm wondering my new shunts are to low. I went from shunt wire to copper wire so it's possible that the MCU at low motor RPM's can't read a voltage drop across the shunts and it stops as a result. I don't know...at the time I didn't have better shunts and now I do. Maybe I should just replace the copper wire for real .005 ohm shunts and see what happens. That means pulling the controller off again and taking it apart. LOL...sometimes I'm too lazy for my own good.